Hi Everyone,
Seasons Greeting to all and thank you to all the Baren #50 organisers and
print makers for a lovely Christmas present.
Never thought of using that saying 'storm in a teacup' but it seems
appropriate here. Lovely thread by the way, lively too:-)
Taking pictures or sitting in a Camera Obscura is tool use.
Using a computer program or a repro camera to adjust contrast, invert a
picture or separate colours is tool use.
Printing out key blocks on a copier, laser, inkjet or film printers is tool
use
Any computer plotting method like a pen plotter (my plan) or laser marker is
tool use.
Laser or CNC cutting or curing of photo polymers or photo resists is tool
use.
Even using a manual pantograph or projector is for scaling is tool use.
Using a half tone or gravure screen or a mezzotint rocker is tool use.
Manual engraving with a Dremel engraver or a wire brush, knife or gouge is
tool use (my plan).
Grinding pigments and mulling them into ink is tool use
Using a Baren or a wooden spoon is tool use
Using an etching or relief press or a steam roller is tool use (my plan).
Some are more manual than others but all are tools and the manual aspect is
a continuous spectrum, at no point can one find a obvious place to draw a
line.
For the moment I believe that all are honest art or craft techniques as long
as they are not fraudulently represented, erring on the side of caution here
is best for the conscience.
Don't call it a wood cut if you used lino, MDF, polymer or something else
Don't say hand cut if it wasn't
Don't call it a wood engraving if you used plank grain wood
Don't call it hand pulled if you used a motorised press
Don't call it Moku Hanga if you used oil based inks or a press
Don't call a digital output technique editionned in art circles
Don't forget to mention hand colouring if it is expected to be a relief only
print
Don't call high quality machine made paper hand made
--- Stick to the facts as best you know them and honestly describe your work
A relief print can be made in many ways
Using a stationery shop rubber stamp is a relief print but not the same as
Moku-Hanga.
It would be frivolous to say that we have to return to blowing dirt onto
rocks for it to be called TOOL FREE art.
Below you can see why my first statement will be borne out in some years.
You will recall the advent of the Compact Disk, it came as a shock to some
of the audiophile community who were aghast (a word I have never used
before) at the reduction of their precious analogue waveforms into digital
staircase representations. The electronic development at the time and since
was so fast and wide spread that there are in fact few cases where a cheap
modern CD and HiFi cannot exceed the best sound experience available from
all but the high priced analogue equipment of then or now that few
possessed. The steps in the waveforms are no longer detectable and the pops
and snaps are now gone. Nostalgia wants the pops and snaps but they were
never part of the performed music, they were NOISE, the soft clipping of the
guitar amplifiers was trendy and common because better was not affordable it
was not actually intended to be there, these days it is retro, not purist to
want valve amplification. Well the result of all this digital angst was that
compact disks were issued with a code, either DDD, ADD or AAD to indicate
how the disk was mastered, the A was for analogue and D for digital, the
fists letter was for the recording, the second for the mastering/mixing and
the third for the media, always a D. How often do you see this code on the
disks these days, it is gone with the wind and the buyer is still satisfied
because the lowest CD quality is now usually higher than the average vinyl
records of the previous era.
In the same way as it is still NOW possible purchase vinyl records that have
been mastered and mixed on analogue tapes and play them back on valve
amplifiers it is still possible to purchase hand made art that has been hand
drawn, hand carved and hand printed.
So if it comforts the print maker let him label his prints as HHH, MHH, MMH
or MMM depending on how much he has used Machines or his Hands to produce
the image.
As the world moves inexorably towards the lowest common denominator in all
fields. The consumer market will not pay more for quality he cannot
appreciate, MPEG4 or other cable/satellite encoding is poor at low intensity
compared to a well tuned PAL Betamax recording but all that is needed for
the masses. Those arts, crafts and skills that exceed the base level will
stand out prouder and more obviously. The market for them will diminish
because you can view a digital image of a master's print on an iPad and less
people have the experience to discern the difference but the true value will
grow from rarity and skills shortage and the fact that they cannot be mass
produced with a simple mouse click. The only way to be sure of how a print
is produced is to purchase from source which means increased profits for us
print makers.
You can bet your uwabaki that the masters of any era would have scoffed at
people emulating historical styles with modern technology yet been happy;
perhaps only after a generation or so; to integrate what modern technology
was available at the time into any new innovative print styles.
Let us do the same.
=====
I think this was mentioned here previously
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/etchpop/etchpop-create-etch-print-share
This is what some print makers fear will diminish their status. Photo
typesetting and computers have made letterpress printing redundant but it is
still practiced by many so we should not be fearful. This is as dangerous
to print making as DTP is to letterpress printing, the skills and crafts
will go where they are appreciated and the mass produced methods will be
sold to the masses.
=====
As for differences in a laser cut block and a hand carved block there will
not be that many eventually. As mentioned already the router may not be
able to make narrow tapered cuts easily but it just takes a better machine
and bits. The laser will usually leave a square shoulder (though it does
not have to on the better machines and operators) that may be detectable on
deeply embossed work. The laser resolution is already higher than you can
carve by hand, 1200 dpi is pretty common on vector cutters and needs
magnification to detect (can you see the 600 dpi dots on a laser print out).
There does not have to be any unintended printing areas as they can be
edited out but if they do occur in identical places to a known genuine print
they may signal a copy. The choice of printing surface may be a give away
if the texture is incorrect for the line edges or the period. Line widths
may be the give away on detailed prints, it will be work (craft work on the
computer) to calibrate the cut width and depth for any specific cutter and
material so that fine lines wont come out narrower if the laser burns more
from the edges. Unexpected parts of the edge may break off because they
were cut at a weak point in the grain that is different from the original.
As for looking at the blocks, they will be immediately recognisable so will
never be available for viewing if the deception needs to be maintained.
=====
I have modified a pen plotter to print directly on type high mounted lino
blocks so that I can plot my key line or colour separations directly onto
the blocks in good register on multi colour prints. When printing on a
proofing press (hand operated) it is a bonus if all the blocks are carved in
register so the colours go where they should I have had limited success in
transferring inkjet printed key blocks onto lino without using the
traditional carbon paper and this is not all that accurate for a novice like
me. In time I may discard the digital crutches that I use but for the
moment this is my action plan (plotter electronics died so now looking for a
new brain transplant but have one lined up in January.
=====
With relief
--
Kalle Pihlajasaari Idyllic Press
Johannesburg, South Africa
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