Today's postings
- [Baren 44640] sizing paper at home--both sides when wet? (Andrew Stone)
- [Baren 44641] Re: sizing paper at home--both sides when wet? (key sevn)
- [Baren 44642] Re: Methylcellulose for chine colle - what consistency ? (Sharri LaPierre)
- [Baren 44643] Re: Most Annoying (thadeenz97 # verizon.net)
- [Baren 44644] Re: Most Annoying (thadeenz97 # verizon.net)
- [Baren 44645] Re: sizing paper at home--both sides when wet? (David Bull)
Message 1
From: Andrew Stone
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:40:55 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44640] sizing paper at home--both sides when wet?
Send Message: To this poster
I found some locally available (down the street actually) handmade Japanese paper. What they have is mostly for conservation/bookbinding purposes but I pulled out some that look heavy enough for printing and bought some sample sheets: 1 is called "Senkwa"? and is 80% kozo/20%pulp and another is
90% Kozo 10%Pulp--both are about 40g/m2 so lighter than I'd like but serviceable.
They both look like decent papers but are unsized
So tomorrow I'm going to have a go at sizing a couple sheets of each.
I've looked over Dave's website and recipes from McClain's and some printmaking books. I'd like a stronger size and am planning on using Yoshida's recipe of 65g glue/28g alum per liter of water.
Main question: I'd like to size both sides--so I'm planning on sizing side A on each sheet stacking up as I go. Waiting 1/2 hr or so and then flipping the stack over and sizing the back sides before hanging them to dry. Can I do this or do I need to wait for the front to dry before doing the back?
Second question--how many paper sheets will 2L of size cover? I'm sizing paper that is 26cm x80cm more or less.
I will cut the full size sheets in half to be able to handle them?
(I'm planning a kind of blotchy print anyway that will be ok with badly sized paper!...) I have some good paper too but I'm saving that for less experimental work.
Still warmish here in Florence (cold at night but shirtsleeves during the day and I'll work in a big room that might be too dry but won't be too cold.
Thanks,
Andrew Stone
andrewstone1@me.com
rospobio.blogspot.com
90% Kozo 10%Pulp--both are about 40g/m2 so lighter than I'd like but serviceable.
They both look like decent papers but are unsized
So tomorrow I'm going to have a go at sizing a couple sheets of each.
I've looked over Dave's website and recipes from McClain's and some printmaking books. I'd like a stronger size and am planning on using Yoshida's recipe of 65g glue/28g alum per liter of water.
Main question: I'd like to size both sides--so I'm planning on sizing side A on each sheet stacking up as I go. Waiting 1/2 hr or so and then flipping the stack over and sizing the back sides before hanging them to dry. Can I do this or do I need to wait for the front to dry before doing the back?
Second question--how many paper sheets will 2L of size cover? I'm sizing paper that is 26cm x80cm more or less.
I will cut the full size sheets in half to be able to handle them?
(I'm planning a kind of blotchy print anyway that will be ok with badly sized paper!...) I have some good paper too but I'm saving that for less experimental work.
Still warmish here in Florence (cold at night but shirtsleeves during the day and I'll work in a big room that might be too dry but won't be too cold.
Thanks,
Andrew Stone
andrewstone1@me.com
rospobio.blogspot.com
Message 2
From: key sevn
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:59:17 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44641] Re: sizing paper at home--both sides when wet?
Send Message: To this poster
I don't size senkwa, and it works ok.
btw recently I sized paper using atomizer lol.
I hate doing this in general. ;)
btw recently I sized paper using atomizer lol.
I hate doing this in general. ;)
Message 3
From: Sharri LaPierre
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 18:30:18 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44642] Re: Methylcellulose for chine colle - what consistency ?
Send Message: To this poster
I use methylcellulose exclusively and it keeps forever in the fridge.
Sometimes I have to thin it with a little more water. Just keep it
tightly capped in the fridge.
Cheers ~
Sharri
Sometimes I have to thin it with a little more water. Just keep it
tightly capped in the fridge.
Cheers ~
Sharri
Message 4
From: thadeenz97 # verizon.net
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 21:53:06 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44643] Re: Most Annoying
Send Message: To this poster
I liked that one. So many years later I have plenty of comebacks, and I gess I've got a while to earn my "sass!"
Clive Lewisrote
I work with lino on large prints and, having found that out, one guy sneered " Oh, lino; I did lino in grade seven". That was my cue to give him a big smile and ask if he ever got $600 for one of his linos. I can be a jerk too:-)...
Clive Lewisrote
I work with lino on large prints and, having found that out, one guy sneered " Oh, lino; I did lino in grade seven". That was my cue to give him a big smile and ask if he ever got $600 for one of his linos. I can be a jerk too:-)...
Message 5
From: thadeenz97 # verizon.net
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 21:54:48 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44644] Re: Most Annoying
Send Message: To this poster
OUCH! Ouch ouch ouch!
Diane Cutter wrote: I have an 'annoying' story.
>Years back I did a lot of blind embossings and had some success at selling them.
>One woman bought a fairly large abstract fish and, as she walked away, said 'this is going to be such a fun project.
>I'm going to fill in the raised areas with watercolor." I wanted to rip the print out of her hands but restrained myself.
>Some people just don't 'get' blind emboss...
Diane Cutter wrote: I have an 'annoying' story.
>Years back I did a lot of blind embossings and had some success at selling them.
>One woman bought a fairly large abstract fish and, as she walked away, said 'this is going to be such a fun project.
>I'm going to fill in the raised areas with watercolor." I wanted to rip the print out of her hands but restrained myself.
>Some people just don't 'get' blind emboss...
Message 6
From: David Bull
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 00:02:02 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44645] Re: sizing paper at home--both sides when wet?
Send Message: To this poster
Andrew wrote:
> I'd like a stronger size and am planning on using Yoshida's recipe
> of 65g glue/28g alum per liter of water.
That recipe is indeed pretty strong, and assumes that:
1) you will be doing a lot of overprintings, and bashing a paper a
lot, and/or
2) a warm (summer) environment (which means the paper is soft and
needs the 'protection').
In my experiences so far, I've never used a mix that strong, for what
it's worth ...
I've also found that you can get away with quite a lot of variation in
the nikawa amount in the mix, but putting too much alum in there will
bring up the 'sparkle' effect on the paper, and make it quite
difficult to get pigment to enter smoothly.
Before you do your whole stack, I would recommend doing a couple of
test sheets/strips first ...
> Main question: I'd like to size both sides--so I'm planning on
> sizing side A on each sheet stacking up as I go. Waiting 1/2 hr or
> so and then flipping the stack over and sizing the back sides before
> hanging them to dry. Can I do this or do I need to wait for the
> front to dry before doing the back?
I've done it both ways, they both work. My normal practice now is to
do the front side first on the whole batch, let it 'set' around a half
hour, then (gently) flip it, and do the other face.
> Second question--how many paper sheets will 2L of size cover? I'm
> sizing paper that is 26cm x80cm more or less.
I've been working on paper about 1/2 that area (about 26cm x 42cm) -
these are 'normal' sheets cut in half - and have found that 2 liters
will not quite finish a stack of 120 sheets.
But I also see a potential problem with that paper size. 80cm is a
very long 'run', and there is no way in my experience that a brush can
be loaded with enough liquid to do it in one pass.
I have no idea how the pros handle such large sheets ...
Dave
> I'd like a stronger size and am planning on using Yoshida's recipe
> of 65g glue/28g alum per liter of water.
That recipe is indeed pretty strong, and assumes that:
1) you will be doing a lot of overprintings, and bashing a paper a
lot, and/or
2) a warm (summer) environment (which means the paper is soft and
needs the 'protection').
In my experiences so far, I've never used a mix that strong, for what
it's worth ...
I've also found that you can get away with quite a lot of variation in
the nikawa amount in the mix, but putting too much alum in there will
bring up the 'sparkle' effect on the paper, and make it quite
difficult to get pigment to enter smoothly.
Before you do your whole stack, I would recommend doing a couple of
test sheets/strips first ...
> Main question: I'd like to size both sides--so I'm planning on
> sizing side A on each sheet stacking up as I go. Waiting 1/2 hr or
> so and then flipping the stack over and sizing the back sides before
> hanging them to dry. Can I do this or do I need to wait for the
> front to dry before doing the back?
I've done it both ways, they both work. My normal practice now is to
do the front side first on the whole batch, let it 'set' around a half
hour, then (gently) flip it, and do the other face.
> Second question--how many paper sheets will 2L of size cover? I'm
> sizing paper that is 26cm x80cm more or less.
I've been working on paper about 1/2 that area (about 26cm x 42cm) -
these are 'normal' sheets cut in half - and have found that 2 liters
will not quite finish a stack of 120 sheets.
But I also see a potential problem with that paper size. 80cm is a
very long 'run', and there is no way in my experience that a brush can
be loaded with enough liquid to do it in one pass.
I have no idea how the pros handle such large sheets ...
Dave