Today's postings
- [Baren 44206] checking for dryness (cjchapel # casco.net)
- [Baren 44207] RE: drying prints ("Phare-Camp")
- [Baren 44208] Re: Lithographie maison - Kitchen Lithographie (Sharri LaPierre)
- [Baren 44209] Re: drying prints (Amanda Miller)
- [Baren 44210] RE: New Baren Digest (HTML) V56 #5747 (Sep 18, 2011) (Kristine Alder)
- [Baren 44211] Re: Lithographie maison - Kitchen Lithographie (Graham Scholes)
- [Baren 44212] Re: Minimum dry time prior to shipping? (Clive Lewis)
Hey I just want to follow up on the person who has a print he's concerned
about shipping as its still got a bit of tack. When I was getting my degree
online a little trick I did when I had to send a last minute print to the
teacher was to bake the print in the oven for 15-20 minutes with the
temperature under 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This worked every time! I
started doing this because the first set I did the teacher told me to use a
drop or two of cobalt drier and I couldn't stand the smell so I refused to
use again (3 years later I still can't get the solvent stink out of that
edition).
I remember her either saying, or reading it, not to use litho ink -
use an oil based etching ink.
Cheers ~
Sharri
Another idea, if you want to heat up your prints a bit, is to put the stack
of prints on top of your clothes drier while running. Mine gets warm but
not hot. I put a little weight on with books or uncarved blocks. I
discovered this idea by accident because my laundry room doubles as studio
and it's a small space, so I use any flat surface I can find!
Many thanks to Barbara Mason, Barbar Carr, Eli, and Brenda for the great
tips on getting rid of the tiny wood chips on my blocks. Next time, I will
really take some time to scrub and wipe the block before I get started with
ink.
Amanda
--
Amanda Gordon Miller
www.AmandaGordonMiller.com
EdamamePress.etsy.com
Actually, if you check out her site, she says that she uses etching ink because litho ink is too hard.
--Kristine
Kristine Alder
Baren Exchange Manager
St. George, UT
Art Educator/Printmaker/Book Artist/Graphic Design
email: alder@pineview.org
imakeprints@hotmail.com
"The greatest danger for most of us is not that our aim is too high and we miss it,
but that it is too low and we reach it." --Michelangelo
Interesting.
I guess it is test thingie,,,, if when regular ink is used and it does not lift in the non image area then you know what to do.
Graham
The issue isn't so much about ink rubbing off on something. I have found
that the drying process binds layers of oil based ink together and that it's
possible, with a bit of pressure, to lift off the top layer of ink if it
wasn't completely dry. The shipping method you describe might work but it'd
be expensive, patience would be cheaper and safer.
Clive
I guess what I am wondering, when I touch the print, the ink still has a bit
of tack to it, but does not come off on my finger, so I am wondering - if
the ink does not come off onto my finger tip, but if I place a layer of
glassine on it and sandwich the print between two boards such as MDF to
ship, tape up the edges of the MDF - if the ink might rub off onto the
glassine during shipping even though dry to the touch but still slightly
tacky.