Today's postings

  1. [Baren 43953] black & white / extra "E" ("bobcatpath # 207me.com")
  2. [Baren 43954] Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (Phil Hillmer)
  3. [Baren 43955] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (Barbara Mason)
  4. [Baren 43956] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (ruthleaf)
  5. [Baren 43957] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (Phil Hillmer)
  6. [Baren 43958] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (Phil Hillmer)
  7. [Baren 43959] Re: black & white (Diane Cutter)
  8. [Baren 43960] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (Barbara Mason)
  9. [Baren 43961] Re: black & white (Georgina Leahy)
  10. [Baren 43962] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink? (Mark Phillips)
  11. [Baren 43963] Re: black & white (Mike Lyon)
  12. [Baren 43964] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
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Message 1
From: "bobcatpath # 207me.com"
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 14:05:55 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43953] black & white / extra "E"
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thanks Marilynn

i have always prefered my black and white prints
with color i get bogged in decision making-too many choices !
keeping it simple has always worked for me
it's about making the tool marks describe the subject/action

and Rakesh- sorry for the extra "E" in your name

Rakesh's year of the tiger is actually bright orange !
but most of his (her?) other work that i have seen is B&W
the one color functions much and a black would in this case

Gillyin
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Message 2
From: Phil Hillmer
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:53:40 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43954] Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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Hi,

I need to do some additional carving on a block and need to transfer an
image from one block to another in order to do so.

I have read that inking a block and printing the block on mylar to transfer
from one block to another is a good way, but I would like to not have to
wait a few days for the ink to dry on the block I want to carve.

Is there a good way to transfer an image from one block to another using
either mylar or some other method that is fast drying so I can start carving
same day?

Thanks.
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Message 3
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:18:40 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43955] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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Print on mylar, transfer to the block, dust with baby powder a lot, you are good to go...this will not totally dry it but it will be close. Pounce it to start with, then you can rub pretty hard once it is all covered. I would give it a day and maybe do it again right before you start, also keep a paper under your hand when you carve, so you don/t heat the ink again
Barbara
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Message 4
From: ruthleaf
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:24:33 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43956] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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If you use a paper for a transfer it will not be as dark as using mylar
but the block will dry quicker. Ruth Leaf
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Message 5
From: Phil Hillmer
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:41:02 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43957] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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Thanks Barbara,

Not sure what you mean by Pounce?...

Do you use talc or corn strch baby powder? Or does it matter?
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Message 6
From: Phil Hillmer
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:45:30 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43958] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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Oh my Ruth Leaf!

I have your book - bought it many years ago thanks so much for the info. I
am honored by your reply!
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Message 7
From: Diane Cutter
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 18:26:01 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43959] Re: black & white
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I think it's interesting how some of us gravitate to one color ink and paper, black and white most common, and how some are prone to color. I also find the use of various colors very confusing though in all my other work I use color. For me the black and white simplifies an image down to the essentials. Either the design, composition works or it fails... there is no luscious color to disarm me or the viewer.


I've had printmakers who use color remark on my ability to work with only one ink; to them it seems difficult. For me, one ink is easy and adding any number of other colors makes me go crazy. When we had the 3 minimum Moku Hanga print exchange I was paralyzed into inaction for many weeks until the deadline forced me into it.

It would be fun to see how many of us are uni-color and how many are multi-color printmakers...


Diane

www.DianeCutter.com
www.theitinerantartist.blogspot.com
www.DCutter.etsy.com

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Message 8
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 20:10:32 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43960] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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Doesn't matter, I use what they have at the dollar store..pounce means to plop it on lightly, maybe with a paper towel, being careful not to disturb the ink..you sort of plop the paper towel over the wet ink after you shake the baby powder on...it moves it all over and sort of brushes it off without rubbing the ink.
Barbara
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Message 9
From: Georgina Leahy
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 22:43:29 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43961] Re: black & white
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I also only like black and white, that is how I think automatically, colour is added deliberatley rather than spontaneously.

I appreciate colour....in other peoples work!

Georgina Carter-Leahy
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Message 10
From: Mark Phillips
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 04:14:25 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43962] Re: Mylar (or other method) transfer with fast drying ink?
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Phil,
Pounce refers to the old master method of transferring a drawing to a
canvas by making tiny holes along the major lines of a cartoon. You
would use a pounce wheel which has little needles/spikes around it that
punch the holes in the paper as you roll it across the lines. I have
several pounce wheels I used for sign making that I still use. Sewing
shops will have these as well as sign suppliers. Fill an old dress sock
or if you have an old pair of pantyhose that will work as well-you need
to double up several layers if you use the pantyhose. You can then
bounce/pounce the sock ball of powder over holes in the drawing and the
charcoal or chalk will go through the holes and transfer the drawing.

In Litho class we'd use talc and then rosin to set the ink on the stone
for storage so it may be the same. Maybe a combination of talc and
magnesium carbonate to stiffen the remaining ink and reduce tack. Or
can you use a different ink? Maybe a waterbased ink to raw wood and then
seal? Let us know what works out.

Regards,
http://igg.me/p/35930?a=202288&i=shlk
egallery http://www.graphicmarx.com
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Message 11
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 12:29:43 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43963] Re: black & white
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I'm mostly multi-color... Since the 1960's. Still hoping to become
full-color someday though I have no reason to feel optimistic. Color adds
complexity and difficulty and should be used only when absolutely necessary
(which I usually feel it is). Everything is easier without color or with a
very limited pallette, seems to me. Additional printing layers add
complexity geometrically! It can all get out of control so quickly! Hugely
challenging'

Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com

Sent from my iPhone

Digest Appendix

Postings made on [Baren] members' blogs
over the past 24 hours ...

Subject: Tsushima-san's latest efforts
Posted by: Dave Bull

Time for another quick update on Tsushima-san's progress; two items to report on that front today ...

First up are the images of the latest version of the peony print (she actually finished these during her Tuesday morning session here). Marc earlier asked for some comparative images, so here goes. I don't have time to prepare a fancy roll-over presentation, so I'll just list them.

First up is my sample - the exact same sheet that I gave to both her and the printer last month (these should all be clickable):

And here's the one that the printer sent back to me (and which I rejected ...):

So let's see Tsushima-san's versions, starting (again) with the first one she did last week (on white test paper):


[Long item has been trimmed at this point. The full blog entry can be viewed here]

This item is taken from the blog Mokuhankan Conversations.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.


Subject: Byobu
Posted by: Linda

While at the Moku Hanga Conference in Japan I was able to take a byobu (screen) and chotsugai (paper hinge) workshop given by Yabuta Kashu. 

Byobu's (bee-o-boo) were used in Japanese homes as room dividers where there were not walls and means 'protect [from] wind'.  They are used as pieces of furniture as well as art and their use can temporarily change the size and atmosphere of a room.
They are held together only by paper hinges and glue and can fold in both directions.  There are no nails, metal hinges or screws.  Just paper.  It's pretty magical!
Once home I decided to make my own using a print made especially for the byobu.  I had only made a small 2 piece byobu in the workshop but made this one 3 pieces.  It took several weeks but it came our exactly like I wanted.  The size is 12 x 25" so it won't work as a room divider but fits nicely in front of the fire place.

Blue Moon    
I used 2 blocks of cherry ply.  The challenge was getting all 3 pieces to print evenly and with the same tone and . . .
[Long item has been trimmed at this point. The full blog entry can be viewed here]

This item is taken from the blog Linda Beeman - Printmaker.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.