Today's postings
- [Baren 43855] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V56 #5700 (Aug 6, 2011) ("Frank Trueba")
- [Baren 43856] Re: Project Info to Mailing Lists (Relief for Relief) (cjchapel # casco.net)
- [Baren 43857] Prints for Japan show (Joe Martin)
- [Baren 43858] Re: Prints for Japan show (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 43859] Exchange 50vote (Andrew Stone)
- [Baren 43860] Printing on wet paper with etching inks... (Phil Hillmer)
- [Baren 43861] Re: Printing on wet paper with etching inks... ( slinders # comcast.net)
- [Baren 43862] Re: Printing on wet paper with etching inks... (Phil Hillmer)
- [Baren 43863] Re: Printing on wet paper with etching inks... (Curtis Wright)
- [Baren 43864] Re: Printing on wet paper with etching inks... ( slinders # comcast.net)
- [Baren 43865] Re: Printing on wet paper with etching inks... (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 43866] Re: Ex. 50 edition ("Ellen Shipley")
- [Baren 43867] Re: Printing on wet paper with etching inks... (Juergen Stieler)
- [Baren 43868] RES: Re: Ex. 50 edition ("Maria Regina Pinto Pereira")
- [Baren 43869] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
I will be out of the office until Monday, August 15, 2011.
In my absence you can contact Debbie Barilati at 459-4995 or barilati@ucsc.edu
You may leave an e-mail or phone message for me (831-459-3573), but I will not see or hear it until August 15, 2011.
Thank you.
frank
I have already sent an announcement of this project to my small emailing list and know that it has generated at least two sales. So I'd say it's not too early! I'm planning a link on my website too.
C. Chapel
____________________
Please visit:
http://www.carolchapel.com
http://www.etsy.com/shop/Chapel
I tried to go to the opening of the show in Portland on Thursday, as I was already downtown and thought it would be easy to pop over. After an hour of inching through traffic clogged with pedestrians, an art type fair that closed a street beside the building with the show inside and some type of jogging promotion including a lot of people who looked like they don't usually jog I gave up on trying to find an empty parking place. So, Barbara, sorry to miss the opening. But, I went to PNCA to see the show yesterday.
It was great to see so many prints all together! I liked that the artist's statements were hung next to each print, too.
I can't decide if it's politically correct to say I had favorites, but I loved Dusk by Paulo Symoes and was also pretty crazy about The Sun Reborn by Angelo Rodriguez, East Wind by Ray Hudson, Blue Heron Rising by Carole Dwinell... I could go on! But, everyone's taste is different -- I am sure ALL the prints will turn up in viewers' lists of favorites.
Suzi Sutherland-Martin
Suzy,
The parking is horrible down there!!! I went at 2 to be sure of a space right outside the door....so I totally understand. Thanks for making second trip!
Barbara
Well, I00. Hmmm seems like a lot. But I'm in.
At least the shipping will be easy.
Andrew (usually prints 20 at a time) Stone
rospobio.blogspot.com
Hi,
Can anyone give me suggestions as to the best way and or method to print
woodcuts on wet/damp paper using etching inks via etching press? I am
interested in:
1.) How to dampen papers - entire process of wetting paper up to printing
time.
2.) Process involved in multi plate - color printing on wet paper, for ex.
is it better to let paper dry between printings or not etc.
3.) Best practices to dry the print after all printing is done - and
flatten the print.
4.) Should blocks be shellacked when printing on wet paper to protect the
block from moisture.
5.) Best method for printing wet that allows for fine detail in a print.
Thanks so much for any insights or info on any of the above.
Phil.
Phil Hillmer wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Can anyone give me suggestions as to the best way and or method to print
> woodcuts on wet/damp paper using etching inks via etching press? I am
> interested in:
>
> 1.) How to dampen papers - entire process of wetting paper up to printing
> time.
Hi, Phil,
I spritz papers lightly (every other one) with an atomizer (old
windex bottle) using warm water to speed things along. Then I
put them into a zip-lock bag and seal it. If I can leave it
overnight I do. If I need to 'encourage it' I'll give them a
zap in the microwave oven. A minute helps get the moisture
steamy, and then I leave them for an hour.
For large prints you can use a larger bag. If you want to soak
your paper in a tray, be sure to use blotter sheets or towels to
thoroughly blot each sheet of paper before printing. You'll
need to dampen your paper again with each time through the press.
> 2.) Process involved in multi plate - color printing on wet paper, for ex.
> is it better to let paper dry between printings or not etc.
The first thing you need to do is moisten your paper the same
way you will when you print. Then run each sheet through the
press using the same pressure you'll use when you print your
block. Do this with a blank piece of wood the size of the
paper. This is called 'calendaring' your paper. This run
through the press will stretch your paper. On subsequent runs
through the press you shouldn't have more stretching.
The stretching between a first run and a second is significant
enough to ruin your prints, even if they are well registered.
The difference between the 'touch down' point and the far edge
of your block won't line up without calendaring.
You will want to dampen the papers the same way for EACH
color/run through the press!
>
> 3.) Best practices to dry the print after all printing is done - and
> flatten the print.
This will vary with size of the print. Dave had long ago
suggested putting each print between pieces of illustration
board to keep them flat, and I've done this. After a day the
moisture will have gone into the illustration board and the
prints should be fairly dry. (Then I spread out the
illustration boards for them to dry out.) I don't think that
you'll have enough moisture left in the prints to cockle them if
you 'steam' your paper slightly as in #1. Sometimes I'll hang
them from a wire with clips. Sometimes I'll just put very small
prints between pages of a used phone book just to save steps.
I mostly print with Rives BFK, so your mileage may vary.
>
> 4.) Should blocks be shellacked when printing on wet paper to protect the
> block from moisture.
>
Some folks do. I don't.
> 5.) Best method for printing wet that allows for fine detail in a print.
>
Don't print 'wet'! Think 'slightly humid' through the paper.
It will help your ink move into the paper. Too much 'wet' and
you can get ink resisting the paper. And try using an
illustration board or matboard for a blanket rather than a
softer blanket if you think the blanket is causing a problem
with the detail. I use a matboard with wood engravings. Maria
uses a 4 ply offset blanket, but I don't have one of those. She
suggests 'ebay' for buying them.
----------------
I'm also finding 'Windex Multisurface' is remarkable for cleanup
with oil inks! I find that the 'orange' cleanup stuff causes
problems with my skin, and the Windex does the job without those
problems!
Best wishes, Phil,
Sharen
Thanks very much Sharen
Just 3 quick questions, for large sized prints, what kind of bags do you use
for your paper pack? I could not find any ziploc bags large enough - I am
running 12 x 18 prints right now. Also where can I find trays large enough
or what kind of trays do you suggest for big prints without spending a small
fortune?
One more thing, I have some color prints with one layer of ink on them
already - they were printed dry, I would like to print two more layers of
ink on top of the base of ink, I take it from your below instructions that
due to the fact these were printed dry, that the calendaring issue would
ruin the prints if I tried printing the top layers wet is this correct?
Thanks.
Phil-
Get the heaviest plastic drop cloth you can find and wrap the paper in that. Put weight on it, e.g. plywood, and let the damp pack you have made sit overnight. Don't allow damp pack to sit any longer than 48-72 hours before printing.
--Curtis Wright
Phil Hillmer wrote:
> Just 3 quick questions, for large sized prints, what kind of bags do you use
> for your paper pack? I could not find any ziploc bags large enough - I am
> running 12 x 18 prints right now.
Any bag will work....bags from the cleaners, garbage bags. You
just want to keep the moisture in until they're uniformly damp.
Big prints are dramatic and fun! We've had a couple of large
print exchanges in Baren's history, and the prints were
terrific!
http://www.rst-art.com/lpewebshowtemp.htm
Please let us know how your prints come out!
> Also where can I find trays large enough or what kind of trays do you suggest for big prints without spending a small
> fortune?
Plastic cat litter boxes?
> One more thing, I have some color prints with one layer of ink on them
> already - they were printed dry, I would like to print two more layers of
> ink on top of the base of ink, I take it from your below instructions that
> due to the fact these were printed dry, that the calendaring issue would
> ruin the prints if I tried printing the top layers wet is this correct?
I'd print them dry, just like the first layer.
Happy printing!
Sharen
So many questions...so little time :~)))
answers are in below
I'm for #1, I want them all!
Ellen Shipley
Santa Clarita, CA
schrieb Phil Hillmer:
> Hi,
>
> Can anyone give me suggestions as to the best way and or method to
> print woodcuts on wet/damp paper using etching inks via etching press?
> I am interested in:
>
> 1.) How to dampen papers - entire process of wetting paper up to
> printing time.
Hi Phil,
the best method for me to dampen papers, which to my surprise isn't
found in literature or the web is the following:
I do NOT dampen every single sheet. I dampen half of the pile I will
need to print for more or less time, depending upon the type of paper.
The procedure starts the day or evening before printing:
Heavy sized paper, e.g. watercolour papers, I soak for about 20 minutes
in the bathtub (or shower), then take a sheet out, hold it with both
hands and let the water drop until dropping stops, lay it flat on a
large plastic foil on a wooden board of apppriate dimensions, put a dry
sheet exactly upon it, and then again a wet sheet and so on. Next I wrap
the whole package like a present with the foil, put a second wooden
board on top with an evenly distributed weight (bricks, books, whatever
you have at hand). On the next day the moisture is evenly in the whole
package, I take the top board away and open the foil only to take a
sheet out of it, in the time between there ist always plastic foil on
the pile.
(Heavy) copperprinting papers I will dampen for ten minutes max., and
light papers like good quality drawing papers I only draw through the
water for one or two seconds. The rest of the procedure ist the same as
above.
For very thin Chinese or Japanese papers the already described method
with an atomiser or with a very broad and very soft paint brush is best.
You can leave the paper in the damp package for two or three days, after
that time I strongly recommend to open the package and let the paper dry
as it is. Good papers you can treat again (and again) with this method
without problems.
For the rest of your questions there are competent answers I learned from.
Best to all
Juergen
Digest Appendix
Postings made on [Baren] members' blogs
over the past 24 hours ...
Subject: Mystique Series #15 : printing steps 9~10
Posted by: Dave Bull
Another day ... two more impressions. Although as one of them was a 'double', it was more like three ...
First up was the first actual 'colour' in the kimono, a blue pattern with white lines carved out, and some 'leafy' patterns that will be overprinted later on with another colour:
And then the double impression of red, with the inclusion of a 'dab' of colour on her lips (was that really how lip colour was applied at that particular time?):
There are two ways to do such a double impression: with the second hit following immediately after the first impression, or following later (as though it were a separate impression). For such a small area, the first method is usually the best; for wide areas that are going to involve a lot of moisture going into the paper, it's better to wait until things have settled down a bit before doing the second coat.
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This item is taken from the blog Woodblock RoundTable.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.
Subject: Garden Party Art Show
Posted by: Ellen Shipley
Light, Paint, Ink & Clay. Our second Garden Party Art Show. We had such a good time with the first one we've decided to do it again - and add a potter to the mix. It's scheduled for Sun., Oct. 1. Hopefully we'll have as nice a day as last year's show.
I've been working on the postcard. This is what I've got so far:
Tony's photography, Tina's watercolor and oil paintings, Jim & Pat's pottery and my woodcut prints and tapestry pieces. Should be a fun show.
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This item is taken from the blog Pressing-Issues.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.