Today's postings
- [Baren 43539] Re: Tiny prints (Aaron Gillette)
- [Baren 43540] tiny print size (Jane Cloutier)
- [Baren 43541] Re: tiny print size (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 43542] Compromise (Carole Dwinell)
- [Baren 43543] Re: v-gouge woes (Robert Simola)
- [Baren 43544] Re: v-gouge woes (Rachel Silber)
- [Baren 43545] mini print size (Marilynn Smith)
- [Baren 43546] Re: v-gouge woes ("Maria Arango Diener")
- [Baren 43547] Re: v-gouge woes (Robert Simola)
- [Baren 43548] Re: Tiny Print Size (Sharri LaPierre)
- [Baren 43549] Re: Tiny Print Size (Julie Morrison)
- [Baren 43550] prints are here for the Japan Benefit (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 43551] Re: prints are here for the Japan Benefit (Maria Arango Diener)
- [Baren 43552] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
Message 1
From: Aaron Gillette
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 13:08:43 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43539] Re: Tiny prints
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I vote for 2x3, as well.
Message 2
From: Jane Cloutier
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 14:46:12 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43540] tiny print size
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For the ease of the brave person who collates this set of prints, how
about a required paper size that would be easy to handle - say 4 x 4
or 4 x 6, or even 6 x 6. And then a maximum image area, with smaller
images allowed. I'll suggest max of 6 square inches, which could be
arranged in a 2.5 x 2.5 square (approximately), or a 2 x 3 rectangle,
or whatever shape desired.
But I'll be happy to go along with whatever the group decides.
Jane
about a required paper size that would be easy to handle - say 4 x 4
or 4 x 6, or even 6 x 6. And then a maximum image area, with smaller
images allowed. I'll suggest max of 6 square inches, which could be
arranged in a 2.5 x 2.5 square (approximately), or a 2 x 3 rectangle,
or whatever shape desired.
But I'll be happy to go along with whatever the group decides.
Jane
Message 3
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:08:51 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43541] Re: tiny print size
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Jane,
I think you are right...it would look better as a group for the paper to be all
be the same size. I see them in a small portfolio or mounted on a page 4 at a
time... it will be stunning.
I was just showing exchange #15 to a class I was teaching and everyone was so
interested in how each person resolved the long narrow format, some went
horizontal but most chose subjects that could be captured in the long format. I
am always amazed at the exchanges, from beginners to accomplished printers, they
are a marvel. I have not been as active in them the last few years but have
promised myself to get busy and get printing! One of my all time favorites is
the pencil by Jeanne Norman Chase, such a clever print and I think her first
moku hanga attempt. It was in 2003 and as for my own print, I am a much better
carver and printer now..maybe I will attempt it again one of these days to see
the old and new side by side! The blocks just visited the Tacoma Art Museum for
an exhibit they had on printmaking... wish I had already done the new ones to
send them a better example! My other favorite is a small print by Eli of a
trojan horse. I forget what exchange it was in but I loved it on sight.
I have been keeping track of the "votes" and most people like the 2x3
format...but maybe the paper size is the key.
That would gives a margin around the prints if one choses 2x3 or 3x3....or
2x4....
If we go with 2x3 paper size that leaves about 1 3/4x2 3/4 inches for the
print...or 5 x 7.5 cm
Is that enough room for all to carve???? I am looking forward to using up the
piles of paper "scraps" I have, it seems that oriental paper does not fit most
western sizes so there is always some left over. Maybe we can get them "carved
in Japan" and we can print....just kidding! We can do this!!!
My best to all
Barbara
I think you are right...it would look better as a group for the paper to be all
be the same size. I see them in a small portfolio or mounted on a page 4 at a
time... it will be stunning.
I was just showing exchange #15 to a class I was teaching and everyone was so
interested in how each person resolved the long narrow format, some went
horizontal but most chose subjects that could be captured in the long format. I
am always amazed at the exchanges, from beginners to accomplished printers, they
are a marvel. I have not been as active in them the last few years but have
promised myself to get busy and get printing! One of my all time favorites is
the pencil by Jeanne Norman Chase, such a clever print and I think her first
moku hanga attempt. It was in 2003 and as for my own print, I am a much better
carver and printer now..maybe I will attempt it again one of these days to see
the old and new side by side! The blocks just visited the Tacoma Art Museum for
an exhibit they had on printmaking... wish I had already done the new ones to
send them a better example! My other favorite is a small print by Eli of a
trojan horse. I forget what exchange it was in but I loved it on sight.
I have been keeping track of the "votes" and most people like the 2x3
format...but maybe the paper size is the key.
That would gives a margin around the prints if one choses 2x3 or 3x3....or
2x4....
If we go with 2x3 paper size that leaves about 1 3/4x2 3/4 inches for the
print...or 5 x 7.5 cm
Is that enough room for all to carve???? I am looking forward to using up the
piles of paper "scraps" I have, it seems that oriental paper does not fit most
western sizes so there is always some left over. Maybe we can get them "carved
in Japan" and we can print....just kidding! We can do this!!!
My best to all
Barbara
Message 4
From: Carole Dwinell
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:20:00 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43542] Compromise
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Newbie 2 cents worth.
My suggestion is to have the Baren Exchange #50 be 2-1/2" x 3-1/2"
either landscape or portrait (finished outsize dimension size) as this
is the required size for Artists Trading Cards (ATCs). Then you could
carve something smaller that would have a border or you could print to
the edge. That way one could do all that teeny tiny carving you want
to, do an edition a bit larger than the exchange and still have some
cards to trade. I have a wonderful collection of ATCs and it is so fun
to produce tiny works of art. Attached is a sample of one of mine.
This was a larger print (12 color reduction), one of the proofs that I
cut to make the correct size, so actually to do a LITTLE block would
be an added challenge.
I will go with what ever is decided as this sounds like a really fun
project.
Carole
dwinell.carole@gmail.com
http://caroledwinell.blogspot.com
www.caroledwinell.com
"Today is the day to DO it!"
My suggestion is to have the Baren Exchange #50 be 2-1/2" x 3-1/2"
either landscape or portrait (finished outsize dimension size) as this
is the required size for Artists Trading Cards (ATCs). Then you could
carve something smaller that would have a border or you could print to
the edge. That way one could do all that teeny tiny carving you want
to, do an edition a bit larger than the exchange and still have some
cards to trade. I have a wonderful collection of ATCs and it is so fun
to produce tiny works of art. Attached is a sample of one of mine.
This was a larger print (12 color reduction), one of the proofs that I
cut to make the correct size, so actually to do a LITTLE block would
be an added challenge.
I will go with what ever is decided as this sounds like a really fun
project.
Carole
dwinell.carole@gmail.com
http://caroledwinell.blogspot.com
www.caroledwinell.com
"Today is the day to DO it!"
Message 5
From: Robert Simola
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:34:28 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43543] Re: v-gouge woes
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Sharri LaPierre wrote:
> Shireen - they lie. V gouges are impossible to sharpen. Well, OK,
> that is only my experience and opinion, but I was never successful and
> finally gave it up as a lost cause
I had the same experience with v-gouges. Then I bought a WorkSharp.
Now when my v-gouge needs sharpening, it takes just a few seconds, and
it is the tool I use most often.
> Shireen - they lie. V gouges are impossible to sharpen. Well, OK,
> that is only my experience and opinion, but I was never successful and
> finally gave it up as a lost cause
I had the same experience with v-gouges. Then I bought a WorkSharp.
Now when my v-gouge needs sharpening, it takes just a few seconds, and
it is the tool I use most often.
Message 6
From: Rachel Silber
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:42:17 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43544] Re: v-gouge woes
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Robert, could you give more details about this product? I looked up
WorkSharp and found a catalog full of options. Which tool works for the
v-gouge?
thanks,
Rachel
WorkSharp and found a catalog full of options. Which tool works for the
v-gouge?
thanks,
Rachel
Message 7
From: Marilynn Smith
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:47:23 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43545] mini print size
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I will revise my vote to a maximum size. One could go smaller but not
bigger. No theme.
Marilynn
bigger. No theme.
Marilynn
Message 8
From: "Maria Arango Diener"
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:55:59 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43546] Re: v-gouge woes
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Amen!
Some recommendations are:
-Observe current angles and, if the tool is working properly for you, then
maintain same angles as you currently have.
-Reshape the V first by holding the entire V flat against the sharpening
stone or whatever.
-Sharpen one out-side of V so that the edge is nice and shiny all the way to
the cutting edge.
-Sharpen other out-side of V same way.
-Deburrrrr inside of V either with a chunk of soft wood covered in honing
compound or with a small (and I mean small!) file or honing stick. I get my
tiniest files and sticks at Micromark.com.
V is also the tool I use most often for delineating my entire carvings just
as traditionally the toh is used. I have from 1mm v's (pretty worthless,
really) to a 6 mm V but I use 2 and 3 mm most often. Flexcut V's are better
for me for going around lines, while Japanese tool V's are generally better
and last longer for detailed straight lines. For some reason the Japanese
tools don't seem as "limber" as the Flexcut but maybe it's just the fat
handle of the Flexcut may be easier to hold.
That's my dos chavos anyway.
Maria
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
Some recommendations are:
-Observe current angles and, if the tool is working properly for you, then
maintain same angles as you currently have.
-Reshape the V first by holding the entire V flat against the sharpening
stone or whatever.
-Sharpen one out-side of V so that the edge is nice and shiny all the way to
the cutting edge.
-Sharpen other out-side of V same way.
-Deburrrrr inside of V either with a chunk of soft wood covered in honing
compound or with a small (and I mean small!) file or honing stick. I get my
tiniest files and sticks at Micromark.com.
V is also the tool I use most often for delineating my entire carvings just
as traditionally the toh is used. I have from 1mm v's (pretty worthless,
really) to a 6 mm V but I use 2 and 3 mm most often. Flexcut V's are better
for me for going around lines, while Japanese tool V's are generally better
and last longer for detailed straight lines. For some reason the Japanese
tools don't seem as "limber" as the Flexcut but maybe it's just the fat
handle of the Flexcut may be easier to hold.
That's my dos chavos anyway.
Maria
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
Message 9
From: Robert Simola
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 16:10:28 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43547] Re: v-gouge woes
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Rachel,
I just bought the basic machine and the wheels that came with it
(approx. $200) and 99% of the time just use the wheel with 4000 grit
paper which seems to be all that is needed to keep my tools sharp.
Actually it is more like stropping than resharpening them except with
this machine I can strop the equivalent of hundreds of time in just a
few seconds. In addition (anathema and heresy) since I am not doing
much more than polishing rather than regrinding; I never bother to clean
up the inside edges because I haven't noticed a fine, feathery,
hair-line edge on the inside of the gouge that needs to be removed.
Most of my blocks are either pear or cherry and this machine keeps my
gouges sharp enough to make carving relatively easy.
> Robert, could you give more details about this product? I looked up
> WorkSharp and found a catalog full of options. Which tool works for
> the v-gouge?
> thanks,
> Rachel
>
I just bought the basic machine and the wheels that came with it
(approx. $200) and 99% of the time just use the wheel with 4000 grit
paper which seems to be all that is needed to keep my tools sharp.
Actually it is more like stropping than resharpening them except with
this machine I can strop the equivalent of hundreds of time in just a
few seconds. In addition (anathema and heresy) since I am not doing
much more than polishing rather than regrinding; I never bother to clean
up the inside edges because I haven't noticed a fine, feathery,
hair-line edge on the inside of the gouge that needs to be removed.
Most of my blocks are either pear or cherry and this machine keeps my
gouges sharp enough to make carving relatively easy.
> Robert, could you give more details about this product? I looked up
> WorkSharp and found a catalog full of options. Which tool works for
> the v-gouge?
> thanks,
> Rachel
>
Message 10
From: Sharri LaPierre
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 17:16:26 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43548] Re: Tiny Print Size
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Regarding the Tiny Print size:
Since this is to be a portfolio we should all have the same paper
size, say 4" x 6" which would give nice margins for a smaller image.
But, I suggest that the image size be 9 square inches maximum. That
would give people a variety of formats and those who wish to work
smaller could, and those of us with clumsy fingers could work to the
max. This would allow for max. dilemmas: being lousy at math I
don't know how many different combinations there could be to 9 sq.
inches, but I'm sure there are many.... let's see, 1" x 9", no that
won't work it would go off the paper. So, maybe 2" x 4.5" - yeah,
that would work - if you make it go the right direction. This could
be confusing.... but, collectively we're a bright group, so we can do
this!
Cheers ~
Sharri
Since this is to be a portfolio we should all have the same paper
size, say 4" x 6" which would give nice margins for a smaller image.
But, I suggest that the image size be 9 square inches maximum. That
would give people a variety of formats and those who wish to work
smaller could, and those of us with clumsy fingers could work to the
max. This would allow for max. dilemmas: being lousy at math I
don't know how many different combinations there could be to 9 sq.
inches, but I'm sure there are many.... let's see, 1" x 9", no that
won't work it would go off the paper. So, maybe 2" x 4.5" - yeah,
that would work - if you make it go the right direction. This could
be confusing.... but, collectively we're a bright group, so we can do
this!
Cheers ~
Sharri
Message 11
From: Julie Morrison
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 18:33:40 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43549] Re: Tiny Print Size
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I love the idea of 4" x 6" paper -- it gives a small print a really elegant look.
Julie
Julie
Message 12
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 02:41:07 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43550] prints are here for the Japan Benefit
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Got prints today from:
Ray Hudson
Jeanne Chase
Leigh Beatty
Chris Doogan
Also there is one that I need to get from the post office so will post that
tomorrow
Thanks folks...we have about 1/3 of them so I await the other 2/3rds
My best to you all
Barbara
Ray Hudson
Jeanne Chase
Leigh Beatty
Chris Doogan
Also there is one that I need to get from the post office so will post that
tomorrow
Thanks folks...we have about 1/3 of them so I await the other 2/3rds
My best to you all
Barbara
Message 13
From: Maria Arango Diener
Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 03:03:05 GMT
Subject: [Baren 43551] Re: prints are here for the Japan Benefit
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Printing second block tomorrow but I'm using dryer so it should go quick, no wait time. I have three more blocks so I'll be a bit late. Harder cherrywood than I thought or else I'm getting a bit old at the wrists!
Maria
Sent from my iPhone
Maria
Sent from my iPhone
Digest Appendix
Postings made on [Baren] members' blogs
over the past 24 hours ...
Subject: Bloom
Posted by: Andrew Stone
 I sent out my kimono print today. It went out as it appeared in my last post with no additions other than a title and edition number and signature. It will be part of the 60+ prints that will be included in the Baren "Inspired by Japan" benefit portfolio. (individual prints and the entire set should be available for purchase in the coming weeks). I had been planning on calling it, "The Year of No Cherries..." but this seemed a little too sad and, worse, would have been incorrect. I looked up the traditional dates of full bloom of the cherry blossoms in Japan and found this note: "This year's cherry blossom season will be overshadowed by the tremendous loss caused by the recent earthquake. However, we believe that the blossoms will serve as symbols of hope and resilience and a source of motivation along Japan's road to recovery." and it included photos taken by the Sendai representative who went and explored and gave a full report of this year's bloom. Full Bloom in Sendai was 21-4-2011. ( http://www.japan-guide.com/blog/sakura11/110421_sendai.html ) So I thought about it and changed the title to "RIPPLES" The little waves caused by the falling blossoms onto the blue silk waters of the many ponds and rivers and lakes that enrobe Japan;the outward spreading waves and interconnections of events. . . . [Long item has been trimmed at this point. The full blog entry can be viewed here] |
This item is taken from the blog Lacrime di Rospo.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.