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Message 1
From: Alexandra Di Piazza
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2011 14:59:16 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42769] RE: New Baren Digest (HTML) V54 #5517 (Feb 8, 2011)
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My listserv-email was down for awhile and I'm not sure how to post or reply to post.
This is my first test. Thank you.

Alexandra
Alli@Hotmail

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Message 2
From: Annie Bissett
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2011 16:42:38 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42770] Moku Hanga Question: Printing a Bleed
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Dear moku hanga printers,

Have any of you worked with a bleed to all 4 edges of your print (no
border)? If so, how did you handle registration? Kento? Pencil marks?
Other ideas?

Thank you as always for your help.

Annie


...............................................................

A n n i e B i s s e t t : w o o d b l o c k p r i n t s

[web site] http://www.anniebissett.com
[blog] http://woodblockdreams.blogspot.com
[twitter] @anniebissett

[newsletter] http://eepurl.com/cvgXH

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Message 3
From: Viza Arlington
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2011 16:54:31 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42771] Re: Moku Hanga Question: Printing a Bleed
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good question i have been wondering about that too. they only way i
came up with was to trim the paper after printing.

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Message 4
From: "Maria Arango Diener"
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2011 17:02:30 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42772] RE: Moku Hanga Question: Printing a Bleed
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You can either trim later as someone said. If you trim by tearing the paper
(rather than cutting) the entire world will be in awe about your
registration skills with deckled-edged paper.

Or you can attach a piece of cut paper on the corner and on the side where
the paper meets the kento. This extends the paper temporarily so that it can
be registered. Tedious but it works. Use rice or wheat paste or any other
removable glue that will withstand multiple block printing and dampening and
a square or grid for aligning.
I used this method a while back but was printing with oily stuff. Works
well, like I said, kind of tedious to glue all those pieces of paper.

Pencil marks would work too, like in litho. Mark the back of the paper
half-way on one side and half-way on the other side but it requires more
patience in placement than I have with damp paper. I think this works best
with stiff and dry Western papers.

Maria

[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
[=o=][=o=][=o=][=o=]

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Message 5
From: ArtfulCarol # aol.com
Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2011 17:12:24 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42773] Re: Poly sheeting.
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I always have used Crystal Clear Bags for all my art and am very satisfied!
Carol Lyons

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Message 6
From: Andrew Stone
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2011 07:21:48 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42774] printing smallish prints Moku hanga//Exchange print 47 final version(s)
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Hi all,

I picked up some 4" X 6" pre-cut torinoko paper for postcards My blocks are also 4" X 6" so I'll be using a kind of jig or floating kento to register but as I've done some 3" X 5" prints and keeping the edges clean is always an issue. I thought of trying a flip down kento that I could lay down to register the paper--then lift off so it won't get in the way of the Baren so I can print almost to the edge of the paper. Sound reasonable or is there a better way? ( Normally I'd have printed on a bigger sheet of paper and trimmed them down...).

Otherwise I'd carve a 1/4 " margin around the edge of the block to leave a white unprinted border and just try to be neater than I usually am.

Thanks,

Andrew.

PS. I posted the finished version(s) of my exchange 47 print on my blog. If anyone doesn't want to see it until the package arrives don't go here:

www.rospobio.blogspot.com

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