Today's postings
- [Baren 42172] Taming that Transparent Base (Elizabeth Busey)
- [Baren 42173] Re: Taming that Transparent Base (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 42174] RE: Taming that Transparent Base (thadeenz97 # verizon.net)
- [Baren 42175] Re: Taming that Transparent Base (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 42176] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
Message 1
From: Elizabeth Busey
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 13:21:31 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42172] Taming that Transparent Base
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Hello Bareners,
Here is a question for all those oil-based ink lovers. I made lino reduction
prints, using very transparent ink and lots of layers. I use Handschy inks and
transparent base (now made by Sun). As I get more ambitious and increase the
number of layers, I'm running into several challenges:
1) In the later layers, the ink doesn't want to stick to the earlier layers.
I've read I should use Setswell in the earliest layers to let the ink remain
"open." I'm wondering how much should I use, should I use it in all layers?
Should I still let each layer completely dry or print when tacky?
2) As the layers increase, so does the shine. I've heard Dullit mentioned, and
again I have questions about how much to use and in which layers. Also, it is
compatible with Setswell?
It is ironic that at one time I wanted to be a chemist, and now I'm immersed in
the world of ink chemistry.
Many thanks for any advice you might have (and thanks to the Moku Hanga folks
for indulging us oilies.)
Elizabeth
Elizabeth Busey
www.elizabethbusey.com
Here is a question for all those oil-based ink lovers. I made lino reduction
prints, using very transparent ink and lots of layers. I use Handschy inks and
transparent base (now made by Sun). As I get more ambitious and increase the
number of layers, I'm running into several challenges:
1) In the later layers, the ink doesn't want to stick to the earlier layers.
I've read I should use Setswell in the earliest layers to let the ink remain
"open." I'm wondering how much should I use, should I use it in all layers?
Should I still let each layer completely dry or print when tacky?
2) As the layers increase, so does the shine. I've heard Dullit mentioned, and
again I have questions about how much to use and in which layers. Also, it is
compatible with Setswell?
It is ironic that at one time I wanted to be a chemist, and now I'm immersed in
the world of ink chemistry.
Many thanks for any advice you might have (and thanks to the Moku Hanga folks
for indulging us oilies.)
Elizabeth
Elizabeth Busey
www.elizabethbusey.com
Message 2
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 13:37:20 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42173] Re: Taming that Transparent Base
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Elisabeth,
Use setswell, the same amount in all your inks, you can mix it with the
transparent base and then mix that in your inks, I did that all the time. The
rule of thumb is 5% but I have used a lot more with no ill effects after 20
years so it used to work great, I am not sure about the new supplier for the
trans base as I am not using litho ink much any more but assume it is still ink
with no color.
The reason you need to mix it in all the ink setswell is like adding oil to the
ink and you will have a viscosity resist problem if you do not use it in all of
them.
I printed one layer on top of another, immediately. I never waited for anything
to dry... I did not get much shine if any. Doing reduction you will have to
carve fast. Just kidding.
I have no experience with dull it, I expect it is more for those printing with
opaque inks.
Let me know if you have more questions...the trick is to use the same amount of
setswell/trans base mixture in all the inks, I used to mix it all up ahead of
time and store it in small containers with tight lids. If you use inkote to keep
the top from skinning, you are adding more oil, so again, it can cause you
viscosity problems. use waxed paper instead, freezer paper waxed side down
works, wax paper is a little too lightweight. As I remember it took a whole day
to mix ink....probably not really that long but it seemed like it.
My best
Barbara
Use setswell, the same amount in all your inks, you can mix it with the
transparent base and then mix that in your inks, I did that all the time. The
rule of thumb is 5% but I have used a lot more with no ill effects after 20
years so it used to work great, I am not sure about the new supplier for the
trans base as I am not using litho ink much any more but assume it is still ink
with no color.
The reason you need to mix it in all the ink setswell is like adding oil to the
ink and you will have a viscosity resist problem if you do not use it in all of
them.
I printed one layer on top of another, immediately. I never waited for anything
to dry... I did not get much shine if any. Doing reduction you will have to
carve fast. Just kidding.
I have no experience with dull it, I expect it is more for those printing with
opaque inks.
Let me know if you have more questions...the trick is to use the same amount of
setswell/trans base mixture in all the inks, I used to mix it all up ahead of
time and store it in small containers with tight lids. If you use inkote to keep
the top from skinning, you are adding more oil, so again, it can cause you
viscosity problems. use waxed paper instead, freezer paper waxed side down
works, wax paper is a little too lightweight. As I remember it took a whole day
to mix ink....probably not really that long but it seemed like it.
My best
Barbara
Message 3
From: thadeenz97 # verizon.net
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 13:59:13 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42174] RE: Taming that Transparent Base
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Hi, Elizabeth,
A couple of things for you, as I use the exact same inks.
I use cobalt drier, using just a drop to speed the drying.
For me, I usually give each color at least 24 hours to set before printing again. I began by trying to print 3 colors a day, and found that the fresh ink was not laying down properly.
Setswell makes the ink flow better. I always use just a little bit (maybe 5 to 10% to the amount of ink. I tried using Dullit once, but found it very messy. Again, a little goes a long way. Use maybe 1/8 teaspoon per tablespoon of ink, and mix thoroughly. Dullit will help adhesion, but again, not if the ink isn't dry.
The longer you can wait between colors, the better. I once had to wait a week before doing my next color, and the laydown of the ink was fantastic. Not convenient, of course, but it just proves the point.
I have found -- in block printing as in screen printing -- that clear bases do tend to be tackier and do not have the same characteristics as other inks. So giving a little extra time, and using drier, should help you out a lot.
Jeff Dean
Napping Cat Press
Buffalo, NY
A couple of things for you, as I use the exact same inks.
I use cobalt drier, using just a drop to speed the drying.
For me, I usually give each color at least 24 hours to set before printing again. I began by trying to print 3 colors a day, and found that the fresh ink was not laying down properly.
Setswell makes the ink flow better. I always use just a little bit (maybe 5 to 10% to the amount of ink. I tried using Dullit once, but found it very messy. Again, a little goes a long way. Use maybe 1/8 teaspoon per tablespoon of ink, and mix thoroughly. Dullit will help adhesion, but again, not if the ink isn't dry.
The longer you can wait between colors, the better. I once had to wait a week before doing my next color, and the laydown of the ink was fantastic. Not convenient, of course, but it just proves the point.
I have found -- in block printing as in screen printing -- that clear bases do tend to be tackier and do not have the same characteristics as other inks. So giving a little extra time, and using drier, should help you out a lot.
Jeff Dean
Napping Cat Press
Buffalo, NY
Message 4
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 18:44:13 GMT
Subject: [Baren 42175] Re: Taming that Transparent Base
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Jeff,
I had no problems with wet ink, but in using transparent inks, I also used them
very thinly as there is so much pigment in litho inks... I think it is a lot
different than using opaque inks.... odd we had different results, I guess it is
what you get used to doing and you make it work for you. I have found that a lot
in my trials and errors... if you fiddle with it enough you can figure out what
works and does not. I do not like drier...it dries the inks on the slab as well
so it rotten to work with. But I know many artists who use opaque inks and swear
by it.
My best
Barbara
I had no problems with wet ink, but in using transparent inks, I also used them
very thinly as there is so much pigment in litho inks... I think it is a lot
different than using opaque inks.... odd we had different results, I guess it is
what you get used to doing and you make it work for you. I have found that a lot
in my trials and errors... if you fiddle with it enough you can figure out what
works and does not. I do not like drier...it dries the inks on the slab as well
so it rotten to work with. But I know many artists who use opaque inks and swear
by it.
My best
Barbara
Digest Appendix
Postings made on [Baren] members' blogs
over the past 24 hours ...
Subject: A Few Seattle Pix
Posted by: Annie B
Lynn and I were very remiss in our picture-taking while we were in Seattle for the "We Are Pilgrims" opening, but gallery director Beth Cullom took a lot of pictures (and she has a really nice camera) so I'll let you know once she's posted hers. Meanwhile, here are a few teasers. This was the first time I ever had my name up on the wall in vinyl. A nice Helvetica-like font.  [Long item has been trimmed at this point. The full blog entry can be viewed here] |
This item is taken from the blog woodblock dreams.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.
Subject: Exhibition
Posted by: JennifersCabin
|
I have updated my wesite and added some more work: http://www.jenniferscabin.co.uk at the moment I am using this space as a window of the work. For any local readers, I have joined up with four other Dorchester artists to put on a selling exhibition of Artist made pictures, cards and presents from upstairs in the Poundbury Garden Centre, Poundbury, Dorchester from Wednesday November 17th until Monday lunchtime 22 November 2010.  |
This item is taken from the blog Jennifer Martindale.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.