Today's postings
- [Baren 40606] Mark Mason - New Print (Jane Cloutier)
- [Baren 40607] reduction prints; oops, I broke a blade. (Andrew Stone)
- [Baren 40608] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
Message 1
From: Jane Cloutier
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 16:11:08 GMT
Subject: [Baren 40606] Mark Mason - New Print
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Mark, that is absolutely beautiful! I love the feathery bird, and the
snow-spots in the grey shading. Thank you so much for sharing it.
Jane Cloutier
snow-spots in the grey shading. Thank you so much for sharing it.
Jane Cloutier
Message 2
From: Andrew Stone
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 05:42:13 GMT
Subject: [Baren 40607] reduction prints; oops, I broke a blade.
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Thanks to all who emailed or wrote in the forum RE: reduction prints. Most of the information
has been very helpful if most has also been primarily suited more to linoleum/woodblockers printing
opaquely with oilbased inks. I do have a better idea of how it works, advantages and challenges and
can imagine how one would have to alter the order working with transparent, waterbased inks i.e. moku hanga
style. The biggest challenge would be working with a varied palette as getting reds,yellows, and blues will
require more than one block unless at least one color is really dense. A pale yellow could be overcome by a
vivid blue and still be blue and not green.
I'm not sure I can plan that well but can imagine working in a way that not planning can be fun.
I haven't tried yet but I will when an image that I think is suitable (or create as suitable presents as such).
Anyone who prints transparently who has some images or links to transparent reduction prints--or artists who do
them--would be helpful.
Thanks,
Andrew
rospobio.blogspot.com
P.S. I've been working with decent knives for a while now but managed to break--not just chip--my first toh.
I was cutting tiny circles with my brand new, very sharp 3mm toh and was doing great until the last inside curve
and I felt a pop. Off came just a bit of the tip. I'd done that before. So I filed it off but still managed a few
minutes later, while working with the same blade to snap it off at the ferule. Not sure how I did it but it was late,
I was tired and trying to finish and must have been stressing the tool in a way it was not designed to be used.
I still have steel to sharpen it down again but I'll need a grinder to get it into the right shape. New lesson. Thin
blades are for delicate work. Use them delicately.
has been very helpful if most has also been primarily suited more to linoleum/woodblockers printing
opaquely with oilbased inks. I do have a better idea of how it works, advantages and challenges and
can imagine how one would have to alter the order working with transparent, waterbased inks i.e. moku hanga
style. The biggest challenge would be working with a varied palette as getting reds,yellows, and blues will
require more than one block unless at least one color is really dense. A pale yellow could be overcome by a
vivid blue and still be blue and not green.
I'm not sure I can plan that well but can imagine working in a way that not planning can be fun.
I haven't tried yet but I will when an image that I think is suitable (or create as suitable presents as such).
Anyone who prints transparently who has some images or links to transparent reduction prints--or artists who do
them--would be helpful.
Thanks,
Andrew
rospobio.blogspot.com
P.S. I've been working with decent knives for a while now but managed to break--not just chip--my first toh.
I was cutting tiny circles with my brand new, very sharp 3mm toh and was doing great until the last inside curve
and I felt a pop. Off came just a bit of the tip. I'd done that before. So I filed it off but still managed a few
minutes later, while working with the same blade to snap it off at the ferule. Not sure how I did it but it was late,
I was tired and trying to finish and must have been stressing the tool in a way it was not designed to be used.
I still have steel to sharpen it down again but I'll need a grinder to get it into the right shape. New lesson. Thin
blades are for delicate work. Use them delicately.
Digest Appendix
Postings made on [Baren] members' blogs
over the past 24 hours ...
Subject: key block transferred
Posted by: conor
  heres my first blog. I just got back from the studio after spending some hours transferring the key block from the print I'm working on right now. I originally planned on doing this print reductively but decided that would be way too much thinking for me and I wouldn't be able to play around with colors and textures as much. I'm going to try for 15-20 prints and I'm guessing they will all end up a little differently. The key block still needs a lot of work but the general outlines will be enough to start with the colors. I'm thinking Im gonna have 10+ colors separated and laying over each other so I have a lot of planning to do.  |
This item is taken from the blog Woodcuts and stuff.
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