Today's postings
- [Baren 39903] Re: a clip (Bobbi Chukran)
- [Baren 39904] Tips for printing blurry things? (andrea # starkeyart.com)
- [Baren 39905] Re: Tips for printing blurry things? (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 39906] Re: Tips for printing blurry things? - ita-bokashi (Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com)
- [Baren 39907] Re: Tips for printing blurry things? - ita-bokashi (Viza Arlington)
- [Baren 39908] Cressida Campbell fans. Something worth watching. ... (jennifer kelly)
- [Baren 39909] Re: Cressida Campbell fans. Something worth watching. ... (Bobbi Chukran)
- [Baren 39910] Re: Cressida Campbell fans. Something worth watching. ... (jennifer kelly)
- [Baren 39911] Cressida Campbell Prints (Gayle Wohlken)
- [Baren 39912] Re: Cressida Campbell Prints (Bobbi Chukran)
- [Baren 39913] Re: Tips for printing blurry things? - ita-bokashi ("Maria Arango Diener")
- [Baren 39914] Re: Tips for printing blurry things? - ita-bokashi (andrea # starkeyart.com)
- [Baren 39915] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
Hello. I am wondering if there are any tips or techniques out there for achieving a bokeh effect in a carved area, where you see no edge marks and the gradiation radiates from the center of the area to be printed rather than from the edges. For example, I want to print some tree branches in the background that are not just lighter in color, but are actually a little blurry. I have tried wiping the edges and doing multiple impressions with little- ink, but with thin, irregularly shaped objects it is time consuming and still I end up with edge lines. The only solution I've been able to come up with so far is to paint the ink on an uncarved block and feather it to basically create a monotype background rather than a carved background. In case I haven't explained myself well, I am trying for no edges in the background, just in the foreground. Also, I am using Akua Kolor monotype inks.Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.Andrea Starkeywww.starkeyart.comwww.starkeyart.blogspot.com
You need to get the plate wet and try dropping drops of thin ink onto the plate...it will give you soft edges and an will look sort of like a sunburst.
I did this on one of the exchange prints, way back in number 3 This looks dark on my computer but the actual print was lighter
http://barenforum.org/members/mason/shadows.jpg
My best
Barbara
Andrea writes;
" I want to print some tree branches in the background that are not just
lighter in color, but are actually a little blurry. I have tried wiping
the edges and doing multiple impressions with little- ink, but with thin,
irregularly shaped objects it is time consuming and still I end up with
edge lines. "
Andrea.....it is very hard to do soft edge bokashi with large irregular
areas. Not sure if this would work for your design but there is a
gradation technique called "ita-bokashi" which involves special carving
of the color block. It translates to 'carved' bokashi. What you do is to
aim for a very very very gradual slope at the edge of your color
block...thus you don't end up with a hard edge. You may have to recarve
your block to accomodate for this 'soft' area and still meet registration.
When you print this bokashi it gives a very soft gradual fading of color
w/o a hard edge......at least with hand printing it works for me...never
tried with a press but it could be worth a try.
hope that helps........Julio
Cressida Campbell fans. Something worth watching.
www.abc.net.au/7.30/content/2009/s2508706.htm
Jenny
>Cressida Campbell fans. Something worth watching.
>www.abc.net.au/7.30/content/2009/s2508706.htm
$50,000? Wow.
bobbi c.
Thats Aussie dollars of course.
Jenny
$50,000 Australian dollars is approximately $44,000 American
dollars. That's still a lot of money.
~Gayle
>$50,000 Australian dollars is approximately $44,000 American
>dollars. That's still a lot of money.
Thanks for converting that for me! Yes, it is quite a lot of money.
bobbi c.
grackle stew studio
I have used two techniques that work with various degrees of success:
1-Cut a mylar or any plastic stencil of the area you want to contain the
fuzzy trees. Lightly spray the area just before printing. You will get a
watercolor-like effect. Practice does not make perfect but it's lots of fun.
Your prints will differ from one to another although after a while you do
get some consistency.
2-Use very rough sandpaper, 16 grit or so, to roughen up and slightly lower
(as Julio suggests) the edges of the areas you want fuzzy. This takes some
time but then you can print normally and get more consistent results from
print to print. I usually wrap the sandpaper around a pencil eraser for the
sake of accuracy and to save my hands.
Hope this makes some sense,
Maria
Julio - That's exactly the answer I was
looking for, ita-bokashi! I knew there had to be a technique for it, I
just couldn't quite wrap my head around it and figure it out myself.
I can do the opposite, fade the color from the edge, but fading toward
the edges has had me stumped. I am relatively new to this as I just
made the switch from lino to wood 3 prints ago. Unfortunately, it is a couple of reductions too late for the
print I've been working on the past few days, but I can guarantee that
I'll try it out on the next one.Maria - Thanks as well. I like the sandpaper around the eraser idea. I think that would work well on irregular shapes.Barb - Thanks for your suggestion. That is an interesting effect that I will certainly try out sometime.And Viza - Funny thing. I have watched every one of those videos with the exception of the one you linked. I looked at the example prints and for some reason passed it over. Thanks again. I'm glad I asked.Andreawww.starkeyart.comwww.starkeyart.blogspot.com Send Send
Digest Appendix
Postings made on [Baren] members' blogs
over the past 24 hours ...
Subject: Washington Lottery Ad with my apple woodblock prints
Posted by: Viza Arlington
This item is taken from the blog VIZArt.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.
Subject: The Hiker
My backpacking son Shane has been hiking the Continental Divide Trail since June 26 when he started at Glacier/Waterton International Peace Park in Canada. He has hiked over 2,000 miles and as of this writing has all of New Mexico to go. He keeps in touch when he takes what are called ?zero days? in towns where he can eat regular food (not freeze dried rations) and take some needed rest. Recently in the San Juan mountains in southern Colorado he woke up in his tent to 14 degrees F. I was inspired to do this woodcut after looking at some of the photos Shane has sent home on camera cards. Though he wasn?t in the photo, I placed the figure of hiker there. The light around him is his love of hiking and protection from harm.
© 2009 Gayle Wohlken
[This was a summary of the original entry. The full entry can be viewed here]
|
This item is taken from the blog Gayle?s
Woodblock Blog.
'Reply' to Baren about this item.