I have used wax for years for minor repairs. My first print making
prof taught us that one. We used the wax sticks sold to repair
scratches in furniture. Just strike a match and drop some into the
space you want to fill and than smooth it out. Nothing new about it.
Marilynn
I believe you learned that from bootcamp.... I have been teaching that
from day one of bootcamp....
I am honoured to be called a prof.
Life is good.
Graham
hi everyone. I was just reading over all the particulars for the upcoming hanga exchange,
and have several questions. Over the years, I have made many prints using hanga techniques
but often I incorporate some more modern or "alternative" elements so I am wondering how strict
some of these rules need to be.
1. is it really required to use Japanese paper for your print? Some types of western paper work
very well for hanga printing and, depending on the image etc, sometimes I prefer to use it.
2. Is it really required for it to be a multiple-block print? At times I have made hanga prints
which were made simply with one block.
and
3. are we not "allowed" to use any hand-coloring? maybe purists feel that would be defeating
the purpose of using this technique, but at times, particularly if it is only a small area or
if it is the only additional color I am using for the print, I have used hand-coloring.
hope this does not start a big controversy, but perhaps others had some of these same questions.
I will adhere to whatever the final decision is on this, but just wondering if there could be some
flexibility.
best wishes and happy printmaking!!
Sarah
Hi guys,
For small prints I have found that the little pieces of waxed paper
that deli's and bakeries use to reach in and get your doughnut or
salami of choice out of the cabinet make terrific backing for between
your print and the baren. You can get them at Costco. for next to
nothing. For larger prints I use the parchment paper sold in the
baking supplies dept. of your local supermarket. (At least, that's
where it is in WA, USA).
As for shims and kentos: flat toothpicks can often come to the
rescue. Once the toothpick is glued in you can shave a little off of
it if needed. I haven't tried Dave's method or using wax, but that
will be next, no doubt! Our beloved Wanda was the one who showed me
the toothpick trick - she said that sometimes her blocks look like a
beaver built a dam down by the kento. She was so funny!
Cheers ~
Sharri
I have another hanga question, while we're asking. ;-]
Given a smallish size block -- say 6x8 -- what sort of brushes are best? The maru bake shoe-brush type or the hanga bake paint-brush type?
Or will I want to use a maru bake for the overall background and then use hanga bake for spot color? I'll have to buy whatever I use, and I don't want to buy out the store. ;-j
Ellen
-(>-----~
Ellen Shipley
Trompt As Writ
~-----
Here a question bordering on wood block..
I know someone who bought a carved board from Tahiti, the Tahitians usually put tapa cloth over and do rubbings. Well this girl has been inking them up and pulling prints and calling them Tahitian Original Prints..and selling them in our co-op of locally made-by-you store. I think of two terms besides not original.... plagiarist, and restrikes..any comments from the group? I looked in the archives...
claudia
claudia g. coonen
www.surface-designs.com
Hmmmm ... Marilynn and I attended the same bootcamp. I do not remember anyone mentioning using wax to repair blocks or touch up kentos. I think you skipped our year with that instruction.
Cheers ...... Charles
Artistic, cultural, and intellectual theft.
Cultural appropriation.
Fraud.
Cheers ..... Charles
Hi! I was wondering if anyone could offer me some advice on what tools to buy? I have been spoiled by belonging to a good studio with nice shared tools, and I have to buy my own for the first time. I am on a pretty tight budget, so I was hoping I could get away with the Speedball lino set, but it is just horrible.
How do you all feel about the Daniel Smith set?
Do I need to bite the bullet and buy something good? What do you think is the best tool for the money?
For this particular project I am going to making rather small prints, so I could start with a set of small tools.
Thanks so much!
love,
tara wings
Time is the moving image of eternity.
~Plato
> I have been spoiled by belonging to a good studio with nice shared >tools, and I have to buy my own for the first time. I am on a pretty >tight budget, so I was hoping I could get away with the Speedball lino >set, but it is just horrible.
Tara,
The tools I have been using exclusively the past four or five months to carve cherry wood blocks are from Warren Cutlery. They are about eight or nine dollars each.
Robert Simola, Ph.D.
Chaucer collector, craftsman, gardener, grape grower
. . . and retired teacher
Tara, you'll get all sorts of recommendations on this
subject simply because so many things can be made to
work. IIRC, artists here use everything from single
blade disposable razors to power carvers to
traditional European carving and engraving steel to
Japanese Hanga implements and unless you are
prescribing to a particular woodcut dogma you'll
likely find yourself using a pretty good mix of
whatever you can afford and collect as time goes by.
Personally, I recommend one or two single bevel
knives, in 6mm and perhaps a 4.5mm, either traditional
hanga or unhandled "Pfell Swiss Made" knife blades,
wrapped with surgical tape, a pair of real Aisuki
bull-nosed chisels in 6mm and 3mm traditional pattern,
augmented by a few home-made versions from sewing
machine needles, as described in the Baren pages.
I also think you'll want a European 9mm #9 pattern
gouge in a palm or full sized tool, a 5mm #9, a small
'U' liner in 5mm, palm tool to start and a pair of
smoothing gouges, #2 pattern in 20-25mm and 12mm.
Some people like "intermediate" tools but these, IMO
don't give good service and you are better off buying
the same tool in palm and full sized carvers' handled
versions; you'll want both for larger blocks.
The knife cuts your outline, the 'U' liner is run
outside the pattern in the areas to be cleared to
buffer the lines you want to remain, the #9 deep gouge
removes the bulk of waste wood and the #2 smoothes out
the rough cleared area. The Aisuki tools are used up
against the knife carved lines and clears (cuts and
digs) away the waste wood that lays by these lines.
You don't need a 'v' tool.
This is what I would call a minimal kit, with sharping
stones and hones/honing compound which you could fill
out as you define your real needs.
Cheers, Eli
Hi, Tara,
I've never found "sets of tools" to be an efficient way to buy
tools. There are a couple of the tools in the set I might use a
LOT, but there always are some that just aren't suited to my
purpose, and it seems a waste.
If you've already been using tools from your studio, see which
tools you like, and try to find those tools. It's an advantage
that you've already been using those tools, and you'll have made
some decisions just in the ones you've chosen to work with.
You're absolutely right about the Speedball tools! Buy one or
two GOOD tools and they'll serve you well. You can add to your
collection with birthday requests or such, but buy good tools
and you'll be able to do good work.
There are some tools that I find are pretty nifty for some of my
work. The Dockyard mini-tools from WoodCraft
are nice for some
purposes. They have several in sets and you may be required to
buy a set. (..and there are some in that set that I've never
used for anything, but the others are favorites!) They seem
fairly expensive, but are really nice!
I also like the Pfeil tools with the mushroom handles, (and I
think that WoodCraft has a special arrangement where they are
the sole sellers of these fine Swiss tools in the U.S..) Look
at one of their 'veiners'! They come in varying sizes. For
some things these are remarkably handy!
Enjoy your new tools, and learn how to keep them sharp and
stored so they aren't damaged. They'll probaby serve you for
your lifetime!
Best wishes,
Sharen
Sorry folks ..
Robert, My email to you through SSNW keeps bouncing. Please contact me off-list.
charlesgmorgan@yahoo.com
Cheers ..... Charles