Today's postings
- [Baren 35148] Re: Ink (Charles Morgan)
- [Baren 35149] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V42 #4244 (Feb 21, 2008) (Lynn Starun)
- [Baren 35150] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V42 #4244 (Feb 21, 2008) (Lynn Starun)
- [Baren 35151] paper sizes ("Jean Womack")
- [Baren 35152] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V42 #4243 (Feb 20, 2008) (peart # comcast.net)
- [Baren 35153] Re: Ink (peart # comcast.net)
- [Baren 35154] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V42 #4243 (Feb 20, 2008) ("claudiacoonen")
- [Baren 35155] Re: Ink (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 35156] Re: Ink (Charles Morgan)
Message 1
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 06:42:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 35148] Re: Ink
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I sometimes use etching inks for block printing. I modify the ink with Easy Wipe and/or artist grade linseed oil to get the right consistency. Different pigments handle differently, and you just have to learn by feel and by doing.
MAJOR GRIPE: Most etching ink producers do not include pigment numbers, so it is a real crap shoot when it comes to interactions when mixing, toxicity, light fastness, actual spectral characteristics, etc. All you ink producers should get with the program!!! Even lowly Speedball gives pigment numbers for their inks. Producers of water colors have been giving pigment numbers for decades.
For the last few years, I frequently mix my own colors. I buy pigment dispersions from Guerra in New York. Their pigments are listed by pigment number so you can use the Artists Handbook to get all the chemical and spectral characteristics of any pigment. I mix the pigment dispersions in small amounts to obtain the desired color. Then I mix the resulting pigment directly into burnt plate oil of the desired consistency or into transparent etching ink medium and modify as described. That way I do not have large amounts of unused inks left over, and I can easily obtain any color desired.
I usually print on wet paper. Consequently, I have no problem with getting the ink to dry ... when the paper is dry, so is the ink in most cases ... usually one day. On dry paper, it may take a couple of days.Or sometimes after a day or so I blot with paper towel to speed the drying. If I am concerned (i.e., when printing layers), I add a bit of cobalt drier (note: very toxic stuff).
Cheers ....... Charles
MAJOR GRIPE: Most etching ink producers do not include pigment numbers, so it is a real crap shoot when it comes to interactions when mixing, toxicity, light fastness, actual spectral characteristics, etc. All you ink producers should get with the program!!! Even lowly Speedball gives pigment numbers for their inks. Producers of water colors have been giving pigment numbers for decades.
For the last few years, I frequently mix my own colors. I buy pigment dispersions from Guerra in New York. Their pigments are listed by pigment number so you can use the Artists Handbook to get all the chemical and spectral characteristics of any pigment. I mix the pigment dispersions in small amounts to obtain the desired color. Then I mix the resulting pigment directly into burnt plate oil of the desired consistency or into transparent etching ink medium and modify as described. That way I do not have large amounts of unused inks left over, and I can easily obtain any color desired.
I usually print on wet paper. Consequently, I have no problem with getting the ink to dry ... when the paper is dry, so is the ink in most cases ... usually one day. On dry paper, it may take a couple of days.Or sometimes after a day or so I blot with paper towel to speed the drying. If I am concerned (i.e., when printing layers), I add a bit of cobalt drier (note: very toxic stuff).
Cheers ....... Charles
Message 2
From: Lynn Starun
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 08:07:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 35149] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V42 #4244 (Feb 21, 2008)
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Hi Bareners,
I have an opportunity to see an exhibit in DC of
Obata's woodblock prints of Yosemite. Have any of you
all seen this exhibit? I have to decide whether
it'll be worth it to fight to include this in the
itinerary. My feeling is yes!
Lynn
I have an opportunity to see an exhibit in DC of
Obata's woodblock prints of Yosemite. Have any of you
all seen this exhibit? I have to decide whether
it'll be worth it to fight to include this in the
itinerary. My feeling is yes!
Lynn
Message 3
From: Lynn Starun
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 08:07:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 35150] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V42 #4244 (Feb 21, 2008)
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Repeat of above message
Message 4
From: "Jean Womack"
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 08:33:37 -0800
Subject: [Baren 35151] paper sizes
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[Baren] Daily DigestI guess my message about paper sizes did not get transmitted through the internet service in the airport at Charlotte the other day.
Jean Womack
Jean Womack
Message 5
From: peart # comcast.net
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 16:36:43 +0000
Subject: [Baren 35152] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V42 #4243 (Feb 20, 2008)
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Jan,
I wasn't complaining about the cost of postage...emotional content is difficult to express via keyboard!
I was just commenting on my Karma for having bad-mouthed the Post Office.
I think I mainly went into an explaination of costs for the benefit of others about to head to the PO.
I know it is much more expensive for those of you outside the US.
But, same as you, I love the exchanges on Barenforum, both verbal and actual print exchanges.
I covet the envelopes and stamps from all parts of the world, as much as the delightful artwork.
In fact, I have a notebook that I lovingly mount the prints, side by side with the stamps and whatever else is included.
These items are priceless to me - I daydream about the journey they have taken, and the places they have seen, and plan that someday I will travel to such exotic locales.
When I go to the post office to purchase stamps, I keep in mind the impression they will make on those that receive them. There is usually a choice of 4-5 different styles for the First Class stamp. I try to buy stamps that are interesting, and that I would be proud to have mounted next to my name in your notebook, should such a thing exist.
Thank you all for the great Rats, it makes going to the mailbox very exciting!
Terry
caught between West Seattle and Rat City!
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Jan Telfer
> Dear Terry,
>
> You were lucky to only have to pay 90cUS overseas on only three or four
> envelopes if that........... I have to pay twice that on ALL of mine
> except 2 for Australia and those in NSW will have the same costs as me
> .... but one year if I sent them at Christmas time and we can get away
> with them a little less....Merry Christmas! Please don't complain
> about your postage... if you want to be in an exchange that is the
> price you have to pay and I gladly dish out my postage just to belong
> to Baren and be able to participate in an exchange from our isolated
> little part of the world. (If I send them sea mail they would take 3
> months!). I have had some very lovely Baren members who have offered
> to post them from the US if I send them over in a bulk envelope, but I
> like all your postage stamps and postage cancellations so I send mine
> individually.
>
> You should see me getting to the post office with the Baren Large Print
> Exchange parcel that we were asked to send flat! $100 with insurance!!
>
> I love being a Baren Member and once all my exchange pieces are sent,
> and all the other printmaking exchanges I also do, I don't even give a
> second thought to their cost..... one less shirt, one less dress, but
> who needs them anyway when you are having fun?
>
> Cheers, Terry, keep smiling,
>
> Jan
> Perth, Western Australia
>
>
I wasn't complaining about the cost of postage...emotional content is difficult to express via keyboard!
I was just commenting on my Karma for having bad-mouthed the Post Office.
I think I mainly went into an explaination of costs for the benefit of others about to head to the PO.
I know it is much more expensive for those of you outside the US.
But, same as you, I love the exchanges on Barenforum, both verbal and actual print exchanges.
I covet the envelopes and stamps from all parts of the world, as much as the delightful artwork.
In fact, I have a notebook that I lovingly mount the prints, side by side with the stamps and whatever else is included.
These items are priceless to me - I daydream about the journey they have taken, and the places they have seen, and plan that someday I will travel to such exotic locales.
When I go to the post office to purchase stamps, I keep in mind the impression they will make on those that receive them. There is usually a choice of 4-5 different styles for the First Class stamp. I try to buy stamps that are interesting, and that I would be proud to have mounted next to my name in your notebook, should such a thing exist.
Thank you all for the great Rats, it makes going to the mailbox very exciting!
Terry
caught between West Seattle and Rat City!
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Jan Telfer
> Dear Terry,
>
> You were lucky to only have to pay 90cUS overseas on only three or four
> envelopes if that........... I have to pay twice that on ALL of mine
> except 2 for Australia and those in NSW will have the same costs as me
> .... but one year if I sent them at Christmas time and we can get away
> with them a little less....Merry Christmas! Please don't complain
> about your postage... if you want to be in an exchange that is the
> price you have to pay and I gladly dish out my postage just to belong
> to Baren and be able to participate in an exchange from our isolated
> little part of the world. (If I send them sea mail they would take 3
> months!). I have had some very lovely Baren members who have offered
> to post them from the US if I send them over in a bulk envelope, but I
> like all your postage stamps and postage cancellations so I send mine
> individually.
>
> You should see me getting to the post office with the Baren Large Print
> Exchange parcel that we were asked to send flat! $100 with insurance!!
>
> I love being a Baren Member and once all my exchange pieces are sent,
> and all the other printmaking exchanges I also do, I don't even give a
> second thought to their cost..... one less shirt, one less dress, but
> who needs them anyway when you are having fun?
>
> Cheers, Terry, keep smiling,
>
> Jan
> Perth, Western Australia
>
>
Message 6
From: peart # comcast.net
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 16:43:35 +0000
Subject: [Baren 35153] Re: Ink
Send Message: To this poster
Charles -
Thank you for your technical information and your inquisitive mind that keeps learning and sharing all this useful information with us!
Your last post was most informative, but left me with one question -
Why does the ink dry faster on damp paper, then dry paper?
Thanks,
Terry
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Charles Morgan
I sometimes use etching inks for block printing. I modify the ink with Easy Wipe and/or artist grade linseed oil to get the right consistency. Different pigments handle differently, and you just have to learn by feel and by doing.
MAJOR GRIPE: Most etching ink producers do not include pigment numbers, so it is a real crap shoot when it comes to interactions when mixing, toxicity, light fastness, actual spectral characteristics, etc. All you ink producers should get with the program!!! Even lowly Speedball gives pigment numbers for their inks. Producers of water colors have been giving pigment numbers for decades.
For the last few years, I frequently mix my own colors. I buy pigment dispersions from Guerra in New York. Their pigments are listed by pigment number so you can use the Artists Handbook to get all the chemical and spectral characteristics of any pigment. I mix the pigment dispersions in small amounts to obtain the desired color. Then I mix the resulting pigment directly into burnt plate oil of the desired consistency or into transparent etching ink medium and modify as described. That way I do not have large amounts of unused inks left over, and I can easily obtain any color desired.
I usually print on wet paper. Consequently, I have no problem with getting the ink to dry ... when the paper is dry, so is the ink in most cases ... usually one day. On dry paper, it may take a couple of days.Or sometimes after a day or so I blot with paper towel to speed the drying. If I am concerned (i.e., when printing layers), I add a bit of cobalt drier (note: very toxic stuff).
Cheers ....... Charles
Thank you for your technical information and your inquisitive mind that keeps learning and sharing all this useful information with us!
Your last post was most informative, but left me with one question -
Why does the ink dry faster on damp paper, then dry paper?
Thanks,
Terry
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Charles Morgan
I sometimes use etching inks for block printing. I modify the ink with Easy Wipe and/or artist grade linseed oil to get the right consistency. Different pigments handle differently, and you just have to learn by feel and by doing.
MAJOR GRIPE: Most etching ink producers do not include pigment numbers, so it is a real crap shoot when it comes to interactions when mixing, toxicity, light fastness, actual spectral characteristics, etc. All you ink producers should get with the program!!! Even lowly Speedball gives pigment numbers for their inks. Producers of water colors have been giving pigment numbers for decades.
For the last few years, I frequently mix my own colors. I buy pigment dispersions from Guerra in New York. Their pigments are listed by pigment number so you can use the Artists Handbook to get all the chemical and spectral characteristics of any pigment. I mix the pigment dispersions in small amounts to obtain the desired color. Then I mix the resulting pigment directly into burnt plate oil of the desired consistency or into transparent etching ink medium and modify as described. That way I do not have large amounts of unused inks left over, and I can easily obtain any color desired.
I usually print on wet paper. Consequently, I have no problem with getting the ink to dry ... when the paper is dry, so is the ink in most cases ... usually one day. On dry paper, it may take a couple of days.Or sometimes after a day or so I blot with paper towel to speed the drying. If I am concerned (i.e., when printing layers), I add a bit of cobalt drier (note: very toxic stuff).
Cheers ....... Charles
Message 7
From: "claudiacoonen"
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 06:56:16 -1000
Subject: [Baren 35154] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V42 #4243 (Feb 20, 2008)
Send Message: To this poster
Jan and all non US residents,
I really appreciate that folks in all parts of the world being in the exchanges.
When I get a post card (or Print) from Australia, England , Japan, and Turkey(etc) something seems extra special (not just the postage!) I appreciate our vastness and diversity.
alohas,
Claudia
claudia g. coonen
www.surface-designs.com
I really appreciate that folks in all parts of the world being in the exchanges.
When I get a post card (or Print) from Australia, England , Japan, and Turkey(etc) something seems extra special (not just the postage!) I appreciate our vastness and diversity.
alohas,
Claudia
claudia g. coonen
www.surface-designs.com
Message 8
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 09:09:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 35155] Re: Ink
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good question and I have not found it to be true, but
maybe because it seems to go "into" the paper more it
seems drier faster...the paper dries in a day, the ink
still takes two or three, at least in my studio...
And when you print relief it is common to blot each
pass with newsprint, lay the newsprint on top of the
image and with the flat side of your hand run it over
the print....be careful not to let the newsprint move.
This removes excess ink and lets the image dry faster.
My best to all
Barbara
maybe because it seems to go "into" the paper more it
seems drier faster...the paper dries in a day, the ink
still takes two or three, at least in my studio...
And when you print relief it is common to blot each
pass with newsprint, lay the newsprint on top of the
image and with the flat side of your hand run it over
the print....be careful not to let the newsprint move.
This removes excess ink and lets the image dry faster.
My best to all
Barbara
Message 9
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 09:14:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 35156] Re: Ink
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My understanding is that these inks are made to interact in some way with the paper. When you dampen the paper, it opens the surface of the paper so that the fibers more readily accept the ink ... the ink goes into the paper rather than just resting on the surface. For some reason (I am not sure of the chemistry and physics) that makes the ink dry faster. Maybe it is only the surface that dries and the ink down in the fibres just does not get exposed to fingers ... I am not really sure. Anyway, it does seem to be that way, based on my experience.
Cheers ...... Charles
Cheers ...... Charles