Thanks to Ellen for directing us to Cedric Green's site. The work is
exceptional and so is the site. I stayed on a long time. browsing and reading
I am also working on woodblocks with letter forms, If I wasn't so entranced
with others' work I'd be finished way long ago and also find time to do more
experimenting as I used to do..
Best to all
Carol l.
I'm still reading the Cedric Green site. ;-] There's so much there! Right now I'm pouring over the instructions for galvo-etching. That's always intrigued me but I've never worked out the details.
I'm impressed by his multiple printings and mixing of intaglio with relief. So much texture!
A great site. 8-]
Ellen
print blog:
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
etsy shop:
http://ellenshipley.etsy.com/
Viza,
it is not you, it is the ink. If you blot each color
on newsprint after you print it, it will help the
paper absorb more ink when you add the next layer. I
would try graphic chemical ink.
Best to you
Barbara
Viza wrote:
>
>
> hi all
> My exchange 34 prints are finished and have been
> for a while but they are still not dry. I used
> cobalt drier but I have had real problems with this
> ink. I don't think i will be using daniel smith ink
> in the future. I called them during the printing of
> the third color because the ink wasn't drying and
> the bottom layers of color seemed to be coming up
> all splotchy through the top layer they basically
> said it was some how my fault and maybe i need to
> take a printmaking class. it might be my fault but i
> don't know what i am doing wrong. The colors i used
> are ultramarine blue, phthalo blue, black and
> titanium white. 7 color reduction block print on
> rives lightweight paper. I used daniel smith inks
> for my three nudes print 5 colors printed wet over
> wet or semi wet and didnt have any problems yellow
> ocher and burnt sienna plus black and white. I
> printed some of my hibiscus prints with daniel smith
> inks and didnt add any drier and it took over a
> month to become dry to the touch and
>
> had some bronzing in places. i dont know. anyway i
> am sorry they are taking so long i will ship them as
> soon as they are dry.
> viza
>
Waaaay back when I was still printing with the oily
stuff - I was told that if you use just a tiny bit too much
cobalt drier, the prints will *never* dry. Now, I never
experimented with that - so can't say for sure, and I
sure hope it's not the case with your prints. They
sound wonderful!
Another contributor to the problem might be the phthalo
blue - when you were using yellow ochre & burnt
sienna you were using organic colorants. (dirt, basically)
:-) Let us know how things go!
Wanda
This week I received my copy of "The Woodcut Artist's Handbook -
Techniques and Tools for Relief Printmaking" by George A Walker
(Firefly Publication, Ontario, Canada) ISBN 1-55407-045-7
It covers mainly oil based woodblocks and engraving as he himself is a
wood engraver, book artist and illustrator teaching at the Ontario
College of Art and Design the book says.
It has a couple of very informative chapters on wood selection and
printing in oils, but for hanga readers it recommended Rebecca Salter's
book on Japanese Woodblock Printing which I too thoroughly recommend.
But it will enhance my growing library along with my practical examples
of Baren Exchange prints which I am so lucky to be able to handle and
share with my Western Australian printmaking friends.
Cheers
Jan