Today's postings
- [Baren 34337] Re: Back again,,,and a question (Shawn + Elizabeth Newton)
- [Baren 34338] Re: Back again,,,and a question (Sharri LaPierre)
- [Baren 34339] Re: Caligo safe wash relief ink (John and Michelle Morrell)
- [Baren 34340] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
- [Baren 34341] Re: Preview invitation (Sue Woollatt)
- [Baren 34342] Re: Back again,,,and a question (Sue Woollatt)
- [Baren 34343] Re: Back again,,,and a question (Sue Woollatt)
i don't care much for dremels, but if you're only
clearing large areas, dremel has a large 'wood'
bit that will do nicely. i don't use those for
details because they make the edges sort of
hairy.
shawn
Sue,
I have a Fordham tool for clearing out those large areas and I use it
very infrequently. However, when working on a large block it is
worth its weight in titanium. I have the chisel attachment and
prefer it to the routing heads. The chisel is activated by very
little pressure and then it just zips around. The only problem is
that it still requires my hand to guide it. If I were Mike Lyon I
could figure out a mechanical way of taking care of that problem,
but alas, I am only,
Sharri
Dean at Graphic Chemicals sent me a free tube of black Caligo ink last summer.
I have used it for most of my wood engraving exchange print (due Noveber 1!),
after starting with my usual black oily ink and having many problems.
I am really sold on this Caligo ink and will probably clean house next spring--when
I can get it shipped without freezing--and use it exclusively. I did a maple block wood engraving
for the exchange with very fine lines in places, larger cleared areas, and areas of solid color.
The ink performed very well--any shortcomings in the edition are due to my carelessness as a printer
and shortcomings as an artist!
Earlier someone had a problem with the ink being soft--I was concerned about that also. I use a cheap,
rusty 906 Blick flatbed press, and I ink with a brayer. I've found for all my inking that I ink better
if I hold the block almost vertically and let gravity pull the brayer across the block. I was taught
to ink with the block horizontal and allow only the weight of the brayer upon the block--no additional pressure--but
I am too insensitive in the hands to do that successfully. In any event, I print better inking vertically
and suggest it to anyone having problems with ink filling in the finer cuts.
Michelle Morrell
jmmorrell#gci.net
Hi Harry,
I've only just started reading all my emails that have accumulated over
the past couple of weeks so only now saw your invite to the preview
evening. I'd love to come! I'll bring hubby, too as he has a developing
interest in woodblock.
Looking forward to it,
Sue
Shawn,
I know exactly what you mean...the use of power tools is anathema to
me, but for larger areas I may need to. I have a weak right wrist and
large areas of chopping endgrain take their toll. I certainly wouldn't
use anything but real burins for the actual image.
Thanks for your input, it's very useful to know the pro's and cons.
Sue
Shawn + Elizabeth Newton wrote:
> i don't care much for dremels, but if you're only
> clearing large areas, dremel has a large 'wood'
> bit that will do nicely. i don't use those for
> details because they make the edges sort of
> hairy.
>
> shawn
Hi Sharri,
Thanks for that...it bears looking in to.
I keep trying to persuade hubby to clear the background for me, but I
think he's worried about slipping and scoring over the image through
inexperience. Give him a big sidegrain plank and he'd probably be as
happy as larry! :-)
Sue