does anyone know what the poem says?
I think it would be interesting to know.
Great print!
best to all,
Barbara
I don't much care to try and replicate daylight in my studio, and I
am happy to work in low light at night time. The idea of a
consistently lit work environment is a little unsettling to me, and I
suspect that nonstop daylight would play havoc on my sleep pattern. I
have a mix of bulbs and tubes and I turn on different lights when my
brain wants a change. I think it is good to view a print in a range
of lighting conditions. Most people who see the finished print will
not be standing out in the sunshine, and hopefully the print will
live in a low light environment. I do mix my colours in the early
morning and try to avoid making tricky tonal decisions at night.
Like Maria my eyeballs are not what they used to be, so a magnifying
lamp is invaluable for checking little details. This lamp is the
single most important piece of lighting.
I find that a small dim lamp near the block is useful for bouncing
light off the printing surface. The hint of gloss tells me when the
water balance is right for the texture I am printing.
Tom
I will try to be at this lecture at the National Academy because this is a
doable. Anyone else?
Wednesday, October 3
Color woodcut prints
12 noon, Huntington Room
National Academician Karen Kunc will give a lecture on her prints, her
techniques and the subject of her weekend woodcut workshop (October 19,20 & 21)
Carol Lyons
Irvington, NY
Hi everyone,
Thanks so much for the lighting tips. Many of you mentioned the cheap
fluorescents that hang on the chains. I love those. I almost got
some, but the studio is part of my house, so it looked too... I don't
know, too not-house, and I was voted down on that. But it sounds like
fluorescent / day light is the way to go.
Andy, you married your optometrist! Brilliant! I married a massage
therapist, but I haven't gotten as many massages as I had planned.
Sharri mentioned a discussion that Mike and I were having in the
other room (my blog) about hanshita, so I thought I'd recap. Mike
posted on the Baren Blog back in October 2005 about a class he had
taught in Connecticut and there was a photo of a hanshita pasted
*right side up* on regular copy paper that intrigued me. Last night I
tried doing it that way and I blogged about it. Mike wrote a comment
talking about some of the limitations of that method, including the
fact that most printers and copiers don't print the image in exactly
the same spot on the page for each copy. Sharri was responding to that when she wrote: "I print inkjet transparencies for my solarplates quite often and I put the transparency through twice to get the ink more dense. It prints in exactly the same place each time. I don't know if that is because the paper (acetate) doesn't stretch, or what, but it does show that printers can be consistent. (Its an Epson - this is not a paid commercial..)"
Sharri, what kind of acetate are you printing onto? The kind made for use with overhead projectors? I've been thinking about trying acetate for a hanshita. Doesn't Keiji Shinohara show an acetate hanshita on the Wesleyan website? Seems like the actetate would need to be pretty thin in order to paste it down and cut through it. Also, I imagine it popping off the block once it gets too cut up. Has anybody tried an acetate hanshita?
Best,
Annie
Annie,
I have tried an acetate hanshita. I had several different kinds of acetate from years gone by. Laser printers, overhead acetate, bits of I don't know what. I tried printing from my HP with varies forms of successes and failures so then I did some tracings of images onto the acetate and glued that directly. It seemed to dull my blades a bit faster but that may have been my imagination but you're right, when I got down to smaller pieces of acetate left on the block, they had a tendency to pop off. Seemed that no matter how careful I was, they still popped off. I had planned to take some of the frosted acetate and glue the frosted side down in hopes it would get a better grip but just haven't gotten around to it. I tried a few different water soluble glues but the only one I can remember right now is the PVA glue. They all seemed to react the same way. I was working with cherry so not a lot to grip there? Maybe something with a bit more texture would work?
If you get it to work for you, please let me know how.
Leigh
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Smiles,
Heather
It's beautiful. Such purity of line.
Thank you
Sue