I have made very few 'open editions' - almost all my editions are printed in
entirety and THEN I decide the 'edition size' based on the number of
suitable identical prints. So I 'curate' prints into those which comprise
'the edition' and I immediately sign, number, and date those. Remaining
prints are state proofs, deviate from edition 'standard' in color or
otherwise, are blotched, etc. Good ones are marked 'proof', 'state proof',
sometimes 'a/p' or 'unique state' - I record the total number of sheets
printed, the edition size, and any other notes about the run. If I've
managed to produce a couple of large groups of a different character
(state), then I'll divide them into first and second editions based on which
I prefer, with the ones I like most being first edition and the others 'B'
edition (2nd edition).
Some large publishers (I'm thinking of Pace Editions) have the artist sign
and number prints as they are produced before the entire edition is
complete. It can take a printer several years to complete an edition of 60
complex prints for Pace, so Pace may take the first 15 or 20 of an edition
of 60, have them signed and numbered 1/60 through 20/60 and ship them off to
collectors - but the entire edition of 60 is always completed ASAP (I think)
and the editions are NOT produced 'to order' - the idea that work would be
marked "4/25,000" (I'm using an extreme kind of Thomas Kincaid like example
here) when only 8 actually ever get printed is not a very great idea because
it tends to REDUCE the value of the 8 which were actually produced as the
supply of similar prints appears to be so very large (10,000). It might be
better to print, say, 10 at a time, and later produce 2nd, 3rd, and 4th
editions to satisfy additional demand. These should be appropriately marked
2nd or B edition, etc. Collector-type might take greater pride (and pay
more) for a 1st edition than for a subsequent edition.
I like to date my work - usually I indicate only the year after my
signature.
On prints, I usually pencil in the bottom margin this information LEFT:
title CENER: example/edition RIGHT: signature & year -- different artists
do it in different order but most include similar info
Barbara's right, I think - limited editions (and numbering like 33/100
meaning the 33rd of 100 impressions) was conceived around the beginning of
the 20th century as a method to increase the value or price by limiting the
supply.
I don't stack my unsold prints under the bed - I keep them stacked in
not-so-neat (but 'safe') piles in my print drawers waiting (and waiting) for
demand to build. I increase my prices from time to time, but I NEVER reduce
my prices. Collectors LIKE it when the price of a print they own increases
- but it'd be pretty insulting to a collector to find that the next guy was
able to buy the same print for less. I don't mind that my work appreciates
like that.
Try typing this into a Google Search:
Define: limited edition
My 2 cents?
Mike
Mike Lyon
Kansas City, MO
http://mlyon.com/blog