Today's postings
- [Baren 32755] Re: Copyright. ("Marissa ")
- [Baren 32756] RE: Newbie Carving Question- Sore wrists and hands! ("Maria Arango")
- [Baren 32757] Re: Newbie Carving Question- Sore wrists and hands! (David Harrison)
- [Baren 32758] Copyright and Sore wrists ("Lee Churchill")
- [Baren 32759] Re: Copyright. ("Mark Mason")
- [Baren 32760] show displays ("Jenn Schmitt")
- [Baren 32761] Re: Newbie Carving Question- Sore wrists and hands! (Kris Shanks)
- [Baren 32762] RE: show displays ("Maria Arango")
- [Baren 32763] RE: show displays ("Maria Arango")
- [Baren 32764] Carving Strain (Tom Kristensen)
Message 8
From: "Marissa "
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 11:27:34 -0500
Subject: [Baren 32755] Re: Copyright.
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Do not sell the rights off of your work! I have some pieces that are being
licenced to a company for a year, it is my first time doing something like
this and I am very happy with it.
~marissa
licenced to a company for a year, it is my first time doing something like
this and I am very happy with it.
~marissa
Message 9
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 08:31:52 -0800
Subject: [Baren 32756] RE: Newbie Carving Question- Sore wrists and hands!
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Jen,
You really should NOT be having any trouble carving linoleum unless your
tools aren't sharp enough.
If you have a set of cheaper tools, I would highly recommend at least two or
three higher quality tools.
When your tools are sharp you can glide right through even cherrywood. I
carve cherry almost exclusively and sharpen and hone sharpen and hone...
Just as soon as you start meeting some resistance, tools need to be rehoned,
couple of strokes and you're back in business!
Another possible cause is that you are trying to take out too much material
in one stroke. Carve your initial cuts shallower and, when removing large
areas, just scoop out a little at a time. Then go back and deepen your cuts
and areas.
I hope all this helps and welcome to Baren!
Maria
Maria Arango
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
You really should NOT be having any trouble carving linoleum unless your
tools aren't sharp enough.
If you have a set of cheaper tools, I would highly recommend at least two or
three higher quality tools.
When your tools are sharp you can glide right through even cherrywood. I
carve cherry almost exclusively and sharpen and hone sharpen and hone...
Just as soon as you start meeting some resistance, tools need to be rehoned,
couple of strokes and you're back in business!
Another possible cause is that you are trying to take out too much material
in one stroke. Carve your initial cuts shallower and, when removing large
areas, just scoop out a little at a time. Then go back and deepen your cuts
and areas.
I hope all this helps and welcome to Baren!
Maria
Maria Arango
www.1000woodcuts.com
www.artfestivalguide.info
Message 10
From: David Harrison
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 16:42:05 +0000
Subject: [Baren 32757] Re: Newbie Carving Question- Sore wrists and hands!
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Jen,
I'll second what Maria says. I had some cold, tough lino lately and one
bout of sharpening later, it cut fairly easily. The 'King'-brand
artificial waterstones worked a treat. You can buy sets of 800 and 6000
grit for putting on the edge then final polishing.
My knuckles are usually achey from long periods at keyboard/graphics
tablet, but since sharpening the tools a little better cutting practice
pieces hasn't been so ouchsome.
Of course it helps if your lino is fairly fresh. It can harden off over
time -- some blocks I bought from a local art store last year had become
rock-hard and brittle. On asking it turned out they'd been in there for
years! I guess the linseed oil leaches out with time.
Best of luck,
David H
I'll second what Maria says. I had some cold, tough lino lately and one
bout of sharpening later, it cut fairly easily. The 'King'-brand
artificial waterstones worked a treat. You can buy sets of 800 and 6000
grit for putting on the edge then final polishing.
My knuckles are usually achey from long periods at keyboard/graphics
tablet, but since sharpening the tools a little better cutting practice
pieces hasn't been so ouchsome.
Of course it helps if your lino is fairly fresh. It can harden off over
time -- some blocks I bought from a local art store last year had become
rock-hard and brittle. On asking it turned out they'd been in there for
years! I guess the linseed oil leaches out with time.
Best of luck,
David H
Message 1
From: "Lee Churchill"
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 09:57:57 -0700
Subject: [Baren 32758] Copyright and Sore wrists
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Hi All,
In Canada even when selling a work or the copyrights my understanding is
that an artist can't sell their "moral rights", there was a case in
Ontario where a mall put Christmas bow ties on a sculpture and used it
in advertising, the artist sued and (as I recall won) on the basis that
the bow ties interfered with his intended presentation of the work and
so violated his moral rights... so even if you sell a work the company
can't do 'just anything' with it - it may be different in other
places....
I am a poster child for sore wrists, Charles is right - stopping to take
breaks is essential, however I would add the thought that it is better
to stop before things hurt, to rest. I am to the point where when my
hands start to hurt I have to stop for the day, which I wouldn't wish on
anybody. I (now) have a timer that I set to remind me to stop every 15
minutes for at least a couple of minutes to move my hands. Using the
tools like pencils could very well be part of the problem but you might
also want to look at your sitting/standing position if your wrists are
flexed up or down that would add to the strain, and also potentially
lead to tendonitis on the elbows from applying pressure in a direction
that is not supported by larger muscle groups.
A very cheerful,
Lee.
In Canada even when selling a work or the copyrights my understanding is
that an artist can't sell their "moral rights", there was a case in
Ontario where a mall put Christmas bow ties on a sculpture and used it
in advertising, the artist sued and (as I recall won) on the basis that
the bow ties interfered with his intended presentation of the work and
so violated his moral rights... so even if you sell a work the company
can't do 'just anything' with it - it may be different in other
places....
I am a poster child for sore wrists, Charles is right - stopping to take
breaks is essential, however I would add the thought that it is better
to stop before things hurt, to rest. I am to the point where when my
hands start to hurt I have to stop for the day, which I wouldn't wish on
anybody. I (now) have a timer that I set to remind me to stop every 15
minutes for at least a couple of minutes to move my hands. Using the
tools like pencils could very well be part of the problem but you might
also want to look at your sitting/standing position if your wrists are
flexed up or down that would add to the strain, and also potentially
lead to tendonitis on the elbows from applying pressure in a direction
that is not supported by larger muscle groups.
A very cheerful,
Lee.
Message 2
From: "Mark Mason"
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 16:58:23 -0000
Subject: [Baren 32759] Re: Copyright.
Send Message: To this poster
I've just had a look at the site Maria mentions and it looks really useful. (Thanks for the info Maria.) There's a whole section on Copyright and licensing for artists.
Message 3
From: "Jenn Schmitt"
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 12:10:40 -0500
Subject: [Baren 32760] show displays
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Hello all -
I have a question for the experienced artists out there. I'm looking to
start doing juried shows. I just applied for an outside one in June and
they want a picture of my booth set up. Of course, I don't have one yet.
Can people let me know what they have used that is portable and will support
framed prints?
Thanks!
Jenn
----
AzureGrackle
http://azuregrackle.come/blogs/
I have a question for the experienced artists out there. I'm looking to
start doing juried shows. I just applied for an outside one in June and
they want a picture of my booth set up. Of course, I don't have one yet.
Can people let me know what they have used that is portable and will support
framed prints?
Thanks!
Jenn
----
AzureGrackle
http://azuregrackle.come/blogs/
Message 4
From: Kris Shanks
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 09:49:32 -0800
Subject: [Baren 32761] Re: Newbie Carving Question- Sore wrists and hands!
Send Message: To this poster
Jen, I agree, sharp tools make all the difference. My experience with
Dick Blick's "golden easy-cut" lino is that it's much more rubbery
and more difficult to carve than the battleship gray variety. I
bought some on a lark, and it's all ended up in the trash. Charles'
suggestion about exercising your hands is a good one. I keep a
squeeze ball on my desk at work, and exercise my hands when I'm on
the phone or surfing the net. I found the best and longest lasting
ones are the balls marketed for rock climbers - try your local
sporting goods shop.
Kris
Dick Blick's "golden easy-cut" lino is that it's much more rubbery
and more difficult to carve than the battleship gray variety. I
bought some on a lark, and it's all ended up in the trash. Charles'
suggestion about exercising your hands is a good one. I keep a
squeeze ball on my desk at work, and exercise my hands when I'm on
the phone or surfing the net. I found the best and longest lasting
ones are the balls marketed for rock climbers - try your local
sporting goods shop.
Kris
Message 5
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 10:12:46 -0800
Subject: [Baren 32762] RE: show displays
Send Message: To this poster
Hi Jenn,
In the beginning you can use one of the following:
-Grid shelves easily found at Home Depot or Lowe's, these are really
shelving but they stand up nicely. You can stand them on one end and tie
them together with plastic cable ties and set them up in any configuration.
Use S-hooks to hang your art. I did festivals with those for a while.
-Large A-frame easels constructed of two panels, usually pegboard for ease
of hanging. Just get a couple of 4x4 pegboard panels and two hinges and make
an A. Again, use S-hooks to hang your artwork.
In lieu of a booth shot you can start out by setting up one of the above
displays in your front yard and take a shot of that. Unless you are counting
on perfect weather, I would recommend getting a pop-up tent. There are all
kind of display suppliers online that will give you an idea, even if you
don't buy something expensive right away.
Also, you can just hang a sampling of your artwork arranged on a wall in
your house and send that photo until you have a booth setup.
For much more, just follow the
Crumb trail....>>..\/
.
.
\/
\/..................
In the beginning you can use one of the following:
-Grid shelves easily found at Home Depot or Lowe's, these are really
shelving but they stand up nicely. You can stand them on one end and tie
them together with plastic cable ties and set them up in any configuration.
Use S-hooks to hang your art. I did festivals with those for a while.
-Large A-frame easels constructed of two panels, usually pegboard for ease
of hanging. Just get a couple of 4x4 pegboard panels and two hinges and make
an A. Again, use S-hooks to hang your artwork.
In lieu of a booth shot you can start out by setting up one of the above
displays in your front yard and take a shot of that. Unless you are counting
on perfect weather, I would recommend getting a pop-up tent. There are all
kind of display suppliers online that will give you an idea, even if you
don't buy something expensive right away.
Also, you can just hang a sampling of your artwork arranged on a wall in
your house and send that photo until you have a booth setup.
For much more, just follow the
Crumb trail....>>..\/
.
.
\/
\/..................
Message 6
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 10:16:49 -0800
Subject: [Baren 32763] RE: show displays
Send Message: To this poster
Hi Jenn,
In the beginning you can use one of the following:
-Grid shelves easily found at Home Depot or Lowe's, these are really
shelving but they stand up nicely. You can stand them on one end and tie
them together with plastic cable ties and set them up in any configuration.
Use S-hooks to hang your art. I did festivals with those for a while.
-Large A-frame easels constructed of two panels, usually pegboard for ease
of hanging. Just get a couple of 4x4 pegboard panels and two hinges and make
an A. Again, use S-hooks to hang your artwork.
In lieu of a booth shot you can start out by setting up one of the above
displays in your front yard and take a shot of that. Unless you are counting
on perfect weather, I would recommend getting a pop-up tent. There are all
kind of display suppliers online that will give you an idea, even if you
don't buy something expensive right away.
Also, you can just hang a sampling of your artwork arranged on a wall in
your house and send that photo until you have a booth setup.
For much more, just follow the
Crumb trail....>>..\/
.
.
\/
>>>www.artfestivalguide.info
In the beginning you can use one of the following:
-Grid shelves easily found at Home Depot or Lowe's, these are really
shelving but they stand up nicely. You can stand them on one end and tie
them together with plastic cable ties and set them up in any configuration.
Use S-hooks to hang your art. I did festivals with those for a while.
-Large A-frame easels constructed of two panels, usually pegboard for ease
of hanging. Just get a couple of 4x4 pegboard panels and two hinges and make
an A. Again, use S-hooks to hang your artwork.
In lieu of a booth shot you can start out by setting up one of the above
displays in your front yard and take a shot of that. Unless you are counting
on perfect weather, I would recommend getting a pop-up tent. There are all
kind of display suppliers online that will give you an idea, even if you
don't buy something expensive right away.
Also, you can just hang a sampling of your artwork arranged on a wall in
your house and send that photo until you have a booth setup.
For much more, just follow the
Crumb trail....>>..\/
.
.
\/
>>>www.artfestivalguide.info
Message 7
From: Tom Kristensen
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2007 10:08:01 +1100
Subject: [Baren 32764] Carving Strain
Send Message: To this poster
Jen asks about how to carve without hurting the hands. Carving is a
physical activity, but I find I can happily carve all day withouth
feeling strain. With printing I do feel it in my back and after a
couple days printing with a baren I look forward to the relief of
carving. I have strong hands, but I think that carving should be
relatively easy for anyone because there is so much you can do to
reduce the force you need to apply. If your hand is hurting then you
need to change what you are doing.
When carving it is important to think about the effort you are
putting into each part of the carving process. Perhaps your tools are
blunt and poorly designed. Once you try a good sharp tool will you
realise how much needless energy is spent trying to work with an
inferior tool. Do not try to do too much with each stroke. When using
the hangi toh do not bury the blade too deep. When using gouges do
not try to clear too much at once. Only bite off as much as you can
chew. Try gripping the small tools tools in the Japanese way where
the force is directed into the hand rather than the fingers. For fine
clearing work use flat chisels where possible, these are easier to
keep sharp. When clearing large areas use a large clearing chisel
with a mallet. Perhaps the single most important technique is
learning to sharpen your blades effectively. I tried the traditional
Japanese wetstones, but I found this method too difficult and time
consuming, in the end I bought a Tormek wet wheel machine. Sharp
tools will reduce the force you put through your hands, but they also
produce superior blocks and therefore superior prints
There are other things you can do to make carving more comfortable.
The angle you approach your work will affect your back. I prefer to
work with an upright posture. I use a carving bench similar to the
one illustrated by Graham Scholes rather than leaning over the block
in the traditional way. To reduce eye strain I have a magnifying
between me and the block. By moving the lamp around i can adjust my
posture and still see the work in close focus.
Tom in Australia
physical activity, but I find I can happily carve all day withouth
feeling strain. With printing I do feel it in my back and after a
couple days printing with a baren I look forward to the relief of
carving. I have strong hands, but I think that carving should be
relatively easy for anyone because there is so much you can do to
reduce the force you need to apply. If your hand is hurting then you
need to change what you are doing.
When carving it is important to think about the effort you are
putting into each part of the carving process. Perhaps your tools are
blunt and poorly designed. Once you try a good sharp tool will you
realise how much needless energy is spent trying to work with an
inferior tool. Do not try to do too much with each stroke. When using
the hangi toh do not bury the blade too deep. When using gouges do
not try to clear too much at once. Only bite off as much as you can
chew. Try gripping the small tools tools in the Japanese way where
the force is directed into the hand rather than the fingers. For fine
clearing work use flat chisels where possible, these are easier to
keep sharp. When clearing large areas use a large clearing chisel
with a mallet. Perhaps the single most important technique is
learning to sharpen your blades effectively. I tried the traditional
Japanese wetstones, but I found this method too difficult and time
consuming, in the end I bought a Tormek wet wheel machine. Sharp
tools will reduce the force you put through your hands, but they also
produce superior blocks and therefore superior prints
There are other things you can do to make carving more comfortable.
The angle you approach your work will affect your back. I prefer to
work with an upright posture. I use a carving bench similar to the
one illustrated by Graham Scholes rather than leaning over the block
in the traditional way. To reduce eye strain I have a magnifying
between me and the block. By moving the lamp around i can adjust my
posture and still see the work in close focus.
Tom in Australia