Mike, Could you please clarify the deadlines for exchange 32. It sounds like
the coordinator has to send the prints back before he or she gets them?
Dale Phelps
for Su again i thought of his name while driving home...B.J.O. Nordfeld
then i hauled out my books so get a pencil and here's the names and numbers:
The Woodblocks of B . J. O. Nordfeld ISBN 0-938713-08-6
Ada Gilmore :
catalogue from exhibition at Mary Ryan Gallery 452 Colombus Ave NY NY 10024
Blanche Lazzell : Provincetown Classics in History.Literature abd Art #2
ISBN 0-945135-01-7
Provincetown Printing Blocks :
catalogue fron exhibition at Provincetown Art Assoc & Museum
that's what i really love about the BAREN-someone's new question brings up
woodcut art and artists that re - inspire me as i look at them again
thanks Su
gillyin
Thought some Bareners might be interested in this:
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "Gabinete de Prensa.net"
> Date: January 9, 2007 1:41:05 AM PST
> To: "Print People"
> Subject: The World Printmakers Pre-Emptive Print Protest
> Reply-To: "Gabinete de Prensa.net"
>
> Dear printmaker friends,
>
> We'd like to invite you to participate in our new World Printmakers
> Pre-Emptive Print Protest, our symbolic anticipatory strike against
> the impending United States attack on Iran. You can have a preview
> look at it here.
>
> How do you participate? By sending us one of your images and, if you
> like, a brief text, which we will publish on ourPre-Emptive Print
> Protestpages.
>
> We are not charging anybody anything for this initiative. We just
> feel the need to do something before it's too late, and we are obliged
> to regret not having done anything.
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Mike & Maureen Booth
> World Printmakers
Perhaps you could carve out the large areas where you want an aquatint to
be, and then glue shaped pieces of fine sandpaper into those "canyons." In
my experience (with collographs) sandpaper makes a very nice "pseudo"
aquatint.
*"then glue shaped pieces of fine sandpaper into those "canyons.""*
duh. Of course I meant the other way around, you'd glue sandpaper onto the
"raised" areas.
Apologies.
Thanks for all the great ideas about
making marks on Plexi. Yes, I will wear a face mask
to do it. Thanks for reminding me. Any and
all suggestions are welcomed.
They used to have something called a "hot wire" which
was used to cut the plastic used to wrap meat in. There was
illness associated with the fumes from the hot
wire, so they stopped using it. People around here
are very safety conscious because there is so much
big industry around here. When there's an accident, it's
usually a bad accident, unfortunately. So I tell the kids,
NO accidents. We can't have any accidents. If you have
an accident, a person gets hurt just as bad as if you did
it on purpose. Saying it's an accident doesn't make it OK.
Jean
Hi,
Another option for you to get the aquatint effect on the plexiglass plate is
by painting a mixture of white glue or acrylic medium with carborandum grit
[ use for grinding/graining lithographic stone ]. Just apply it as you do
for painting.Any shape you want. Let it dries completly,then you have a nice
toothed surface.
Plexiglass People,
I like Jean have used an electric engraver ..... in short bursts as the
handle does get hot from time to time and I have burnt out a few
motors!!
To get an aquatint the sandpaper is a good tool..... I have found a
really hard rough sandpaper and hitting it with a hammer onto the
plastic gives an aquatint effect.... be careful not to be too heavy
handed because depending on the thickness of the plastic and the
brittleness of it it can be cracked.
Also using the engraving tool to punch small indentations in the
plastic close to one another or further apart depending on the tone
required this will give an aquatint effect too... like a newspaper
print highly magnified.
Plexiglass is great because the design to be engraved or etched can be
taped on to the back of the plastic and can be seen through it. Of
course I use the clear plastic!
Printing plexiglass can either be as an etching technique or a relief
print or both together.
If using the combined method use two different coloured oil based inks.
My advice too, once you have the etching ink in the burr of the design
wipe the surrounding areas very clean.
With the second colour rolled up with relief ink, use a BIG roller and
I mean big roller that will cover the entire width of the plate in one
roll or one circumference of the roller and clean the roller each time
it is run across the design because the roller will pick up the colour
of the etching ink and will leave dirty marks on the second half of the
plate and consequently on to your print..... It will also dirty or
contaminate the relief ink as you re-roll the roller.
If you are unsure of what I have said you may need to read the above a
couple of times. I don't know if I can say it any clearer than that
that it will make sense to everyone.
One bit of extra advice is when using the same plate, if your design is
of a person's face, printed in the etched method and then at another
time in a relief method your skin colour will go from white to black,
so design your plexiglass block for people as you wish to print it and
the cultural difference you want to portray.
Happy printing in 2007 everyone,
Jan
Western Australia