Today's postings
- [Baren 31531] Spotted at Borders (edmund # michaelfraley.com)
- [Baren 31532] Slight correction (edmund # michaelfraley.com)
- [Baren 31533] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press ("Maria Arango")
- [Baren 31534] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press (David Harrison)
- [Baren 31535] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press ("Maria Arango")
- [Baren 31536] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press (David Harrison)
- [Baren 31537] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press (David Harrison)
- [Baren 31538] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press (Charles Morgan)
- [Baren 31539] Hello Fellow Printmakers ("Holly Anderson")
- [Baren 31540] Re: caitn block and summit (Wanda Robertson)
- [Baren 31541] Mica... ("Lee Churchill")
- [Baren 31542] Re: cleaning the rust spots off a press (Clive Lewis)
- [Baren 31543] Re: Baren Digest (old) V36 #3586 (jlkornett # aol.com)
I was surprised to find a copy of Barry Moser's illustrated Bible at my
local Borders over the weekend - in their bargain area for only $9.95. I
think previously the price was something on the order of $50. The book is
chock full of his wood engraving images. I was surprised at how massive
the thing was - like a phone book! If you're interested in Moser's work
and you have one of those stores nearby, you might want to check it out
and see if they have some.
The Barry Moser edition I saw was the $20 softcover on sale for $9.95, not
the $65 hardcover. Apologies.
You can get naval jelly at any Walmart! Or try Home Depot online.
Maria
Maria Arango
www.1000woodcuts.com
Hi Maria,
In this corner of the UK we have neither of those stores! However I've
just done a little googling and found some industrial suppliers who sell
small quantities...
all the best,
David
Oops, sorry David, I had an egocentrism attack, apparently. I thought you
were in the US...and NOT having Walmarts is probably a good thing :-)
Maria
Maria Arango
www.1000woodcuts.com
Heh, no problem! As it happens I _was_ born on the US side of The Pond
(have the passport and everything) but have lived over here almost ever
since...
We do have Walmart in both its raw form and diluted under the Asda
brand. They recently tried to gain zoning approval to concrete over
about a quarter mile of beautiful estuary-front in my parents' town, but
will hopefully be knocked out of play shortly. I won't get into the
politics of it all but they don't have a very good reputation over here.
Someone has just e-mailed to say that there is still a very good,
old-fashioned ironmonger's shop lurking in the centre of Oxford. That's
tomorrow's field trip sorted out :-)
all the best,
David
While it's overkill for my problem, I just found an interesting way of
removing rust -- electrolytic rust removal. It seems to have the
advantage of being non-toxic, and only uses a few volts, some old
plastic and stainless containers, and a little washing soda. Here are
some links:
http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm
http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php
Hope that's useful to someone!
cheers,
David H
Hey, this is a really great tip !!! I will definitely add it to my bag of
tricks. Never heard of this one before. Now all I need to do is find a
plastic tub big enough to put my press in !!!!!
Cheers ....... Charles
Hello everyone,
I guess I should say I'm a "newbie" and have only been reading the posts for
about a week or so. I'm returning to woodblock printmaking after a hiatus
of a few years (BFA in printmaking from U-Mass Amherst in 2001). I recently
bought a small press and have been working on some prints. Things are going
well, but I have a question about wood. I'm used to using quarter-inch
birch plywood which I would buy at Home Depot, etc. Lately though it seems
like its harder and harder to find good carvable boards without warping,
splinters, huge knots, or wood so tough it breaks my hand to carve it. Does
anyone have a suggestion on where to find good birch plywood? Or is there
another type of wood I should try carving and printing? I would appreciate
the input. Thanks!
Holly
Kind of a multi-poster/helper thing Connie! Sharri, Maria Arango, & me
+ plus I'm sure there will be more photos
once people figure out their new cameras! :-) Wish you could have
been there, too. There was plenty more room!
Wanda
Hi All,
It seems I was a little confusing in my last post, though thank you to those who indicated that the Baren Encyclopedia has instructions for applying the mica. I already have instructions for that, I was hoping that people on the list had tried the various techniques and would be able to share with me what the differences in appearances would be - if I apply the mica on top of the paste will it be shinier? if I apply it in the pigment will it look different than if I apply it mixed in paste? I will be experimenting with it but having some basic advice on what will happen would be reassuring (at my local art store the stuff isn't that cheap and I don't want to waste any!)
Any experiences would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Lee.
David, when I get a bit of rust on my press I use 'wet or dry'
sandpaper with a bit of light oil or paint thinner as the fluid; it
doesn't leave scratches but rather polishes things up a bit. For those
hard to get at corners there are rubbing compounds for car body work
that are paste like and will fit on a bit of cloth wrapped around a
dowel; the dowel can be inserted into your drill.
If the rusty spots are not where you will be in contact with them a bit
of light oil rubbed on will keep them rust free for a long time.
Enjoy your press!
Clive
i have been given an old etching press. It is in very good condition except for the fact that it has no bed. Any suggestions ofr how to solve this problem?
Judith