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Message 1
From: "Marilynn Smith"
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 10:00:05 -0800
Subject: [Baren 29905] Re: Baren Digest (old) V34 #3340
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Never done engraving. I looked up engraving tools on the net and they seem
to send me to electric carvers. I do understand it is done on end grain for
fine lines. But this techniqe has been around longer than electric
engraving tools. For someone not wishing to invest a great deal of money
what tools would one look at? I have an art friend who does precise pen and
ink drawings who wishes to put images into a printmaking techique. I
offered up my press (for next summer) and suggested a collaboration. He is
thining possibly etching, I am thinking possibly engraving?? What tools
would be best to start with?
Marilynn

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Message 2
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 13:27:01 EST
Subject: [Baren 29906] Re: Baren Digest (old) V34 #3340
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graphic chem has a basic starter set of wood engraving tools and these would
be a good starter set. You can just use these for ever or you can add a
hundred or more different tools. It is all up to the engraver.

john c.

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Message 3
From: DADI # aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 15:30:23 EST
Subject: [Baren 29907] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V34 #3340 (Jan 18, 2006)
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>they suggest not rolling out the inks on a slab

I have used Aqua Kolor much like I used traditional ink, pouring on
glass and mixing colors, pulling a small amount to one side and then use a
brayer to apply to the block. It is a little tricky getting the right amount of
ink to roll up. Too much makes it slippery and the brayer doesn't turn.

Dale Phelps
Waterloo, Iowa

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Message 4
From: Diane Cutter
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:39:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 29908] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V34 #3340 (Jan 18, 2006)
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Dale...

You might already do this, but the slippery quality can be controlled by using the 'tack thickener'. Just a drop or two of that mixed with the color will make for a thicker roll-out, more like traditional inks. But you still need to make sure you are rolling out a thin layer...

Diane
www.dianecutter.com

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Message 5
From: fami # clix.pt
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 22:13:50 +0000
Subject: [Baren 29909] Re: atomizer/kirifuki
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Tom,

I have a kuramata sprayer bought in Japan, rather expensive... but very good to mist japanese paper when I need. I know that you may find this spayer in USA at Hiromi Paper International. They also have a plastic one in a different model.
Search in their web site in materials and suplies - Conservation
www.hiromipaper.com

good work,
Fatima

>I have been using a clunky water sprayer to moisten my paper and I would like to upgrade.
>I would like to be able to mist my blocks, so I want to move beyond the spitting delivery
>of the cheap sprayers. Can anyone tell me where I might get a beautiful mister/atomiser/hand
>sprayer? There is a nice shiny chrome one illustrated in The Art and Craft of Woodblock Printmaking,
>but an hour searching the net has bought me only to the garden sprayer.
>
>Thanks,
>Tom

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Message 6
From: cucamongie # aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:28:33 -0500
Subject: [Baren 29910] Akua Kolor vs pure pigments
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I use both Akua Kolor and pure pigments. For certain colors I like the pure pigments and other colors, the Akua Kolor. For black, for instance, I nearly always use pure pigments (mixing colors to get black) or sumi. For large areas of color, I have found that Akua Kolor can get a nice smooth printing, seemingly with less effort than with the pigments, but maybe it's just me! At any rate, either works, but the feeling is different so as with everything, to each his own!

Akua Kolor is also terrific for monoprinting....
all the best, and happy printing,
Sarah

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Message 7
From: "Jean Womack"
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 17:35:59 -0800
Subject: [Baren 29911] pigment vehicle
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I used Createx monoprint medium in my last set of prints. It seems to work very well on woodblock, at least with the Createx pigments. I haven't tried it with dry pigment yet, or should I say, dry pigment mixed with water and/or alcohol.
Jean

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Message 8
From: Bette Norcross Wappner
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 22:44:26 -0500
Subject: [Baren 29912] Re: atomizer/kirifuki - for David Bull
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i've seen David Bull brush water onto the paper, therefore i would guess
that he does not use an atomizer.

david, what are the benefits of brushing the water as to atomizing it
onto the paper?

bette.
kentucky usa

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Message 9
From: Blog Manager
Date: 19 Jan 2006 04:55:05 -0000
Subject: [Baren 29913] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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This is an automatic update message being sent to [Baren] by the forum blog software.

The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (12 sites checked, just before midnight Eastern time)

*****************

Site Name: Mike Lyon's Moku Hanga

Author: Mike Lyon
Item: Computer Carving Machine operational!
http://mlyon.com/blog/2006/01/computer-carving-machine-operational.html

*****************

[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:
http://barenforum.org/contact_baren.php

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Message 10
From: Dave Bull
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 16:47:40 +0900
Subject: [Baren 29914] Re: atomizer/kirifuki - for David Bull
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> i've seen David Bull brush water onto the paper, therefore i would
> guess that he does not use an atomizer.
>
> david, what are the benefits of brushing the water as to atomizing it
> onto the paper?

I have never used an atomizer, so I really can't make a good
comparison. My guess would be that for me, it just wouldn't have
enough 'throughput' ... I use a _lot_ of water when moistening the very
absorbent hosho paper.

As for re-moistening once the printing is under way, using a brush
gives me total control over how much water I am getting into the paper.
My water bucket has a flat edge, and after dipping the brush, I wipe it
against this
edge until I have just the right amount of water left.

There are plenty of nuances in using a brush properly, not least of
which is that you must vary the speed of the stroke as you move across
the width of the paper. The brush moves quickly at first - as it dumps
water - and then more slowly, as it empties out ...

For what it's worth to the discussion, I have never, not once in
twenty-five years, ever seen one of the traditional printers using an
atomizer ...

Dave
(Two days left 'till 'opening day' ... things a bit hairy here just now
...)

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