Today's postings
- [Baren 28423] Re: new to baren (Tyrus Clutter)
- [Baren 28424] Re: Questions about inking inconsistency (Daniel Dew)
- [Baren 28425] inking inconsistency (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 28426] Carol Lyons' messages (GWohlken)
- [Baren 28427] RE: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3138 ("marilynn smih")
- [Baren 28428] RE: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3139 ("marilynn smih")
- [Baren 28429] Re: Ned Lud and the Luddites ("Ellen Shipley")
- [Baren 28430] Re: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3139 ("Ellen Shipley")
- [Baren 28431] RE: New Baren Digest (Text) V32 #3139 (Jul 27, 2005) ("phare-camp # imp-s.com")
- [Baren 28432] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V32 #3139 (Jul 27, 2005) ("Ellen Shipley")
- [Baren 28433] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
Message 1
From: Tyrus Clutter
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 09:51:27 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28423] Re: new to baren
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My suggestion on reduction prints is just to start in on one. Likely, the
first one you do will not work quite as you imagined, but you'll learn a lot
from that first experience. I've tried many different techniques of teaching
the reduction process over the years. I bring in the different states, both
printed one on top of the other and printed singly. I talk about how you
need be cutting out the area of the LAST color you printed, so that it will
show, etc. In the end these things only make sense after a couple mistakes.
Just don't treat your first attempts as overly precious--they are learning
experiences. If you don't learn something new every time you start a new
piece then I figure you aren't paying any attention.
Tyrus
Please note that my e-mail address will change to Tyrus.Clutter#gordon.edu
beginning July 1, 2005. Please update your address book. Thank you.
Tyrus Clutter
Director, Christians in the Visual Arts
255 Grapevine Road
Wenham, MA 01984
978-867-4128: Office
978-867-4125: Fax
www.civa.org
Christians in the Visual Arts is the premier visual arts organization
connecting the artist, the Church, and the culture.
first one you do will not work quite as you imagined, but you'll learn a lot
from that first experience. I've tried many different techniques of teaching
the reduction process over the years. I bring in the different states, both
printed one on top of the other and printed singly. I talk about how you
need be cutting out the area of the LAST color you printed, so that it will
show, etc. In the end these things only make sense after a couple mistakes.
Just don't treat your first attempts as overly precious--they are learning
experiences. If you don't learn something new every time you start a new
piece then I figure you aren't paying any attention.
Tyrus
Please note that my e-mail address will change to Tyrus.Clutter#gordon.edu
beginning July 1, 2005. Please update your address book. Thank you.
Tyrus Clutter
Director, Christians in the Visual Arts
255 Grapevine Road
Wenham, MA 01984
978-867-4128: Office
978-867-4125: Fax
www.civa.org
Christians in the Visual Arts is the premier visual arts organization
connecting the artist, the Church, and the culture.
Message 2
From: Daniel Dew
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 09:38:46 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28424] Re: Questions about inking inconsistency
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Once again, my 2 cents.
I have used Akua Kolor in the past and like it very much.
When using a brayer, here's what I do: Pour the ink out, go ahead and
try to roll some out. Then go and get a cup of tea or coffee and hang
out for 10 minutes or so. Then come back and start rolling. The air
will "dry-out" the ink (releasing some sort of chemical) and make it
perfect for a brayer. Funny thing is, I have not been able to let it
get too dry.... even if left for an hour or so it still works fine.
When I have spotty areas, I check a few things:
#1. Is the paper smooth enough? If not, use a little more pressure.
Being very thin ink, it doesn't fill in the cracks or dead spaces very
well. Hosho student grade is a good example. The paper is too
fiberous (sp?) and doesn't print well, even with massive pressure. I
am forced to over ink to make it work on Hosho.
#2. Is the block smooth enough? Once again, the same principle apply
(the ink doesn't fill gaps well)
Daniel L. Dew
I have used Akua Kolor in the past and like it very much.
When using a brayer, here's what I do: Pour the ink out, go ahead and
try to roll some out. Then go and get a cup of tea or coffee and hang
out for 10 minutes or so. Then come back and start rolling. The air
will "dry-out" the ink (releasing some sort of chemical) and make it
perfect for a brayer. Funny thing is, I have not been able to let it
get too dry.... even if left for an hour or so it still works fine.
When I have spotty areas, I check a few things:
#1. Is the paper smooth enough? If not, use a little more pressure.
Being very thin ink, it doesn't fill in the cracks or dead spaces very
well. Hosho student grade is a good example. The paper is too
fiberous (sp?) and doesn't print well, even with massive pressure. I
am forced to over ink to make it work on Hosho.
#2. Is the block smooth enough? Once again, the same principle apply
(the ink doesn't fill gaps well)
Daniel L. Dew
Message 3
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 07:17:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 28425] inking inconsistency
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Charles,
The secret here is that the area is in the same place...this tells us it is the block and not the ink or the paper, unless you suddenly have problems printing one corner consistently and your arm just gives out in this area.........
I would try two things, sand the block with 600 grit sand paper. It you still are having trouble you probably need to actually "seal" the block. This will prevent printing with watercolor or other waterbased inks well but will work slick for Akua Kolor. I know you have tack thickener in the ink or you could not roll it out at all as it is too thin...unless you are using the intaglio ink, which is a lot thicker to begin with. Either way,. sealing the block will take care of this problem. Use spar varnish mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with thinner, or any wood sealer. Obviously an oil based sealer will do the job best but a waterbased one will work if you let it dry really well, say overnight. rub it into the block with a soft cloth and let dry, wipe off all sealer that does not go into the block. Then sand lightly with the 600 grit paper when dry.
Akua Kolor thickens on the slab a bit as it has a gum in it that reacts with the air. It also reacts with water so is best not thinned with water, but water clean up is fine. It will immediately get thick with water added.
Let us know how this comes out, I am sure that this will solve your problems, but if not let me know. I have used this ink for several years so have a lot of experience with it.
Best to you,
Barbara
The secret here is that the area is in the same place...this tells us it is the block and not the ink or the paper, unless you suddenly have problems printing one corner consistently and your arm just gives out in this area.........
I would try two things, sand the block with 600 grit sand paper. It you still are having trouble you probably need to actually "seal" the block. This will prevent printing with watercolor or other waterbased inks well but will work slick for Akua Kolor. I know you have tack thickener in the ink or you could not roll it out at all as it is too thin...unless you are using the intaglio ink, which is a lot thicker to begin with. Either way,. sealing the block will take care of this problem. Use spar varnish mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with thinner, or any wood sealer. Obviously an oil based sealer will do the job best but a waterbased one will work if you let it dry really well, say overnight. rub it into the block with a soft cloth and let dry, wipe off all sealer that does not go into the block. Then sand lightly with the 600 grit paper when dry.
Akua Kolor thickens on the slab a bit as it has a gum in it that reacts with the air. It also reacts with water so is best not thinned with water, but water clean up is fine. It will immediately get thick with water added.
Let us know how this comes out, I am sure that this will solve your problems, but if not let me know. I have used this ink for several years so have a lot of experience with it.
Best to you,
Barbara
Message 4
From: GWohlken
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 11:10:37 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28426] Carol Lyons' messages
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Hi Bareners. Carol Lyons' messages are not appearing in the html
digest. To read her messages, you can go to the archives for that day,
or just look in the "old" digest that comes with your html version.
Sorry about the inconvenience.
~Gayle/Ohio
Archivist
digest. To read her messages, you can go to the archives for that day,
or just look in the "old" digest that comes with your html version.
Sorry about the inconvenience.
~Gayle/Ohio
Archivist
Message 5
From: "marilynn smih"
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 09:03:55 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28427] RE: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3138
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An interesting note on reduction prints. They were invented by a fellow named Picasso. He thought there had to be a different way to get multiple colors from a print besides piecing them together like a puzzle, so he created the reduction method of printmaking. I am no Dan Dew and no whiz at it but his suggestions are right on. When you preplan you take a copy of your image and color it in for each color, than you have a master plan to follow. I can not imagine getting perfect registration for over 20 colors, but if you do not register right you will not have a good print so find a way that really works for you. (still working that out myself, ummmm) With a background in watercolor I know what transparent means. If you use transparent overlays you can get different colors without mixing on the palette. Also you can take a dark color that is
opaque and lay it on top and it will cover the lighter color. Working light to dark is a good rule but also working transparent and opaque is interesting.
Marilynn
Message 6
From: "marilynn smih"
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:35:29 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28428] RE: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3139
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More pictures on my blog. Not the newest work, but you will beging to see progress. When I find a pic of my second lino cut, a reduction print I will share.
http://spaces.msn.com/members/marilynn10/
Marilynn
Message 7
From: "Ellen Shipley"
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 12:02:52 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28429] Re: Ned Lud and the Luddites
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Thanx Harry,
That was very fascinating. I may have known it at one time in my distant education, but I sure didn't remember it.
And how funny for me personally, as I AM a handweaver! I love the tactile sense of weaving and spinning, and I do not have a flying shuttle (for one thing my loom is too small -- I can reach thru and get the shuttle). The latest contention in the handweaving community (hobbyists now) is whether or not to have a dobby, or computerized treadling system, or to treadle by foot (or hand if you've got a table loom as I do).
I'm not a neo-luddite, but I appreciate the accomplishment of setting up my own complex weaves without the aid of a computer. ;->
But it all has taken a back seat to printmaking since I discovered woodcuts and zinc etchings! I've switched my allegiance entirely. ;-]
Thanx so much for the history lesson. I'm going to pass it along to some friends of mine who will be amused.
Ellen Shipley, CA
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
That was very fascinating. I may have known it at one time in my distant education, but I sure didn't remember it.
And how funny for me personally, as I AM a handweaver! I love the tactile sense of weaving and spinning, and I do not have a flying shuttle (for one thing my loom is too small -- I can reach thru and get the shuttle). The latest contention in the handweaving community (hobbyists now) is whether or not to have a dobby, or computerized treadling system, or to treadle by foot (or hand if you've got a table loom as I do).
I'm not a neo-luddite, but I appreciate the accomplishment of setting up my own complex weaves without the aid of a computer. ;->
But it all has taken a back seat to printmaking since I discovered woodcuts and zinc etchings! I've switched my allegiance entirely. ;-]
Thanx so much for the history lesson. I'm going to pass it along to some friends of mine who will be amused.
Ellen Shipley, CA
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
Message 8
From: "Ellen Shipley"
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 12:17:02 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28430] Re: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3139
Send Message: To this poster
Hi Marilynn,
I love your purple flowers -- iris? The colors are so soft. Is this a reduction print? I'm getting really curious about the process and may throw caution to the wind and give it a try myself. ;-]
Ellen Shipley, CA
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
I love your purple flowers -- iris? The colors are so soft. Is this a reduction print? I'm getting really curious about the process and may throw caution to the wind and give it a try myself. ;-]
Ellen Shipley, CA
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
Message 9
From: "phare-camp # imp-s.com"
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 15:53:48 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28431] RE: New Baren Digest (Text) V32 #3139 (Jul 27, 2005)
Send Message: To this poster
Hi Charles: I at first thought that you needed an additive, ie the ink is
too thick or too thin...then Diane mentioned... "Akua can have a great
'resist' quality at times." and did a head thunk. You can correct this
problem by lighly sanding the area where you have a resist. But before
sanding clean it with a solvent then let it dry. Try a proof. If something
oily has soaked the spot you'll still have that spotty area. Then you have
two choices paint a light coat of varnish over the whole block then lightly
sand so the varnish doesn't resist or print with oily ink. The absolute
best option is to pretend you meant to do that...;^D Patti P-C
too thick or too thin...then Diane mentioned... "Akua can have a great
'resist' quality at times." and did a head thunk. You can correct this
problem by lighly sanding the area where you have a resist. But before
sanding clean it with a solvent then let it dry. Try a proof. If something
oily has soaked the spot you'll still have that spotty area. Then you have
two choices paint a light coat of varnish over the whole block then lightly
sand so the varnish doesn't resist or print with oily ink. The absolute
best option is to pretend you meant to do that...;^D Patti P-C
Message 10
From: "Ellen Shipley"
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 13:20:35 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28432] Re: New Baren Digest (Text) V32 #3139 (Jul 27, 2005)
Send Message: To this poster
>...The absolute
best option is to pretend you meant to do that...;^D Patti P-C<
I always use the phrase, borrowed from computer programmers, "This is a
feature, not a bug."
Or as weavers say, "It's a design element."
Works for me. ;->
Ellen Shipley, CA
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
best option is to pretend you meant to do that...;^D Patti P-C<
I always use the phrase, borrowed from computer programmers, "This is a
feature, not a bug."
Or as weavers say, "It's a design element."
Works for me. ;->
Ellen Shipley, CA
http://pressing-issues.blogspot.com/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/philippaschuyler/my_photos
Message 11
From: Blog Manager
Date: 27 Jul 2005 22:55:00 -0000
Subject: [Baren 28433] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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This is an automatic update message being sent to [Baren] by the forum blog software.
The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (7 sites checked, just before midnight Eastern time)
*****************
Site Name: Perfect Press
Item: How I Started Emeralda
http://perfect-press.blogspot.com/2005/07/how-i-started-emeralda.html
*****************
[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:
http://barenforum.org/contact_baren.php
The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (7 sites checked, just before midnight Eastern time)
*****************
Site Name: Perfect Press
Item: How I Started Emeralda
http://perfect-press.blogspot.com/2005/07/how-i-started-emeralda.html
*****************
[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:
http://barenforum.org/contact_baren.php