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Message 1
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:18:26 -0500
Subject: [Baren 28216] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3110 (Jul 3, 2005)
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Sharri wrote:
>Wintergreen is only toxic if you drink it. You can get it at any
>pharmacy. I would wear gloves, just as a precaution, but apparently it
>does not create toxic fumes.

I've used oil of wintergreen to effect toner transfers -- it's much
trickier to get a decent transfer as it's oily and the toner tends to run,
AND!!! Oil of Wintergreen is most definitely toxic when inhaled (also when
ingested, of course)... Like lacquer thinner, methyl salicylate (active
ingredient of aspirin and super-abundant in oil of wintergreen) is a
powerful neuro-toxin when inhaled -- use with PLENTY of ventilation and
organic vapor mask -- the fumes are INTENSE and UNPLEASANT and make my eyes
water and give me a huge headache and nausea (and I'm not prone to either)
-- the stuff is INTENSE and I don't like it at all...

Citrisolve 70 works nearly as well as wintergreen oil and is more pleasant
to use (but neither give the crystal clear results easily obtained with
(toxic) lacquer thinner and acetone -- too bad!)...

-- Mike


Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com

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Message 2
From: "April Vollmer"
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 11:24:33 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28217] Crazy Glue
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When I was in Japan, they introduced me to the secret Japanese block repair
solution: Crazy Glue! The thick kind works really well, and waterproof.

April

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Message 3
From: "Matt Laine"
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 11:35:07 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28218] Re: Crazy Glue
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How is it used? Put on thick and carved when dry?
Matt

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Message 4
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:38:48 -0500
Subject: [Baren 28219] Exchange #26 sign-up
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There are twenty-three printers signed up for Baren Exchange #26 -- we need
at least 33 or 34 to be sure of a 'full' exchange group... If you'd like
to participate please sign up today at:
http://www.barenforum.org/exchange/exchange_sign-up.html (you can view the
prints from previous exchanges in our on-line gallery here:
http://www.barenforum.org/exchange/exchanges.html ).

Here are the details for Exchange #26:

* Participation: You must be an active member of [Baren] in order to
participate in this exchange. The mailing list that makes up [Baren] is
open to everyone to join, and the membership is thus made up of a mix of
'lurkers' and active participants in the forum. Signing up for an Exchange
obliges your active participation in [Baren] discussions... If you remain a
'mystery' name, it leaves everyone feeling quite uncomfortable.
* Medium: woodblock print (hand rubbed or pulled on a press, B&W or
colour, any pigments, any paper). Note: The Baren Exchange is a program for
forum members to create, exchange and display editions of woodblock prints.
Relief prints pulled from wood substitutes and wood-like materials,
including linoleum, corian, MDF, resingrave, and similar are acceptable as
are collagraphs. Coordinators are obligated to reject prints whose primary
method of production is by other means. For example: monotype, intaglio,
stencil, lithography, ink jet, laser, photocopy, etc are to be rejected by
the coordinator.
* Theme: none
* Image size: no restriction.
* Paper size: Oban, about 15 x 10 inches (38 x 25.5 cm) . Note:
coordinators are obligated to reject prints which exceed 15.5 x 10.5 inches
(40 x 27 cm).
* Paper type: no restriction
* Registration period: One month starting July 1 , 2005 (or until 30
participants are enrolled)
* Drop-out deadline: October 1, 2005 If you must drop out of the
exchange, please do so as early as possible in order to give people on the
waiting list time to complete and submit their prints. If you drop out
after this date then a penalty may be imposed.
* Delivery deadline for finished prints: November 1, 2005 -- if you do
not deliver acceptable prints by this date then a penalty may be imposed.
You must deliver 31 prints, a self-addressed mailing label, and sufficient
return postage (in the coordinator's native currency or postage). If you do
not know the exact amount of return postage, please send more than you
think will be required, for example $10 for USA to USA delivery, $20 for
international delivery. The coordinator is a volunteer and is not obligated
to return your prints unless you enclose enough postage. Coordinators are
volunteers, and cannot be expected to pay your expenses. If you order one
of our beautiful storage cases you may package your prints as you prefer.
Otherwise please deliver your prints in a package that can easily be reused
for shipping the collated suite back to you.
* Collated exchange mailing deadline: December 1, 2005. The coordinator
is required to complete mailing the collated prints on or before this date.
* Collophon information: Please fill out and submit the print
information form to send your print details for the colophon page the
coordinator will prepare as soon as possible after your prints are mailed.
* Rejected prints: If your prints do not conform to the above
specifications for Medium, Image size, Paper size, Paper type, and/or
Delivery deadline then the coordinator should promptly reject them, notify
you by email, and (if you enclosed sufficient postage) promptly return
them. You may repair and/or replace the prints prior to the delivery
deadline or drop out of the exchange prior to the drop-out deadline without
penalty, otherwise a penalty may be imposed.
* Communications: It is essential that the coordinator be in close and
timely communication with you. You must respond promptly to e-mails sent
from the coordinator and must notify the coordinator of any change in
e-mail address. If you become 'lost' and do not respond to communications
from the coordinator, you may be dropped from the exchange without further
notice. If this occurs after the Drop-out deadline, a penalty may imposed.
* Penalty: The [Baren] Exchange Manager will promptly notify you by
email if it is determined that you may be subject to penalty. After serious
deliberation while keeping in mind these specifications, the mission of
[Baren], the circumstances, and any explanation you provide, the [Baren]
Exchange Manager will decide whether to impose any penalty and will
promptly notify you of that decision. Any such penalty will be limited to
removing your name from any active exchange sign-up and exchange
participants lists for a period not to exceed one year.
* Delivery information: You must enclose 31 prints, a self-addressed
mailing label, and sufficient return postage (in the coordinator's native
currency or postage). If you do not know the exact amount of return
postage, please send more than you think will be required, for example $10
for USA to USA delivery, $20 for international delivery. The coordinator is
a volunteer and is not obligated to return your prints unless you enclose
enough postage. Coordinators are volunteers, and cannot be expected to pay
your expenses. If you order one of our beautiful storage cases you may
package your prints as you prefer. Otherwise please deliver your prints in
a package that can easily be reused for shipping the collated suite back to
you. See USPS.com for precise rate information. In the USA, the best way to
send the prints is Priority Mail -- the post office will even provide the
box! It is $3.95 to $5.75 for up to 2 lbs depending on distance. For Global
Priority Mail (outside the US), enclose $11 to Canada, $13 to Mexico, $15
to Europe, $16 to Australia, Japan, New Zealand.
* Exchange Coordinator: to be announced -- if you would like to
coordinate this exchange, please check the "Choose me! Choose me!" button
when you submit your sign-up -- information about coordinating is here:
http://www.barenforum.org/exchange/for_coordinators.html

Good luck!

Mike Lyon, Baren Exchange Manager


Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com

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Message 5
From: Charles Morgan
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 08:43:46 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28220] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V32 #3110 (Jul 3, 2005)
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Acetone is not nearly as bad as lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner is a
mixture of some very noxious stuff. Acetone is highly volatile, but does
not seem to be a neurotoxin, nor is it carcinogenic. It is one solvent that
occurs naturally in the body. Having said all that, you should still wear
gloves and use it outdoors or with plenty of ventilation.

Cheers ..... Charles

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Message 6
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:54:48 -0500
Subject: [Baren 28221] Re: Crazy Glue
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>>When I was in Japan, they introduced me to the secret Japanese block
>>repair solution: Crazy Glue! The thick kind works really well, and
>>waterproof. -- April

Matt Laine wrote:
>How is it used? Put on thick and carved when dry?

Hi, Matt --

Crazy Glue is one brand of cyanoacrylate (also marketed under names like
'Super Glue' etc.) which is widely available in hardware stores, etc. The
thickened variety works best for bonding porous materials like wood and
sets strongly in 30 seconds to two minutes, so you can easily hold the
repair in place by hand (but be careful that you don't glue your fingers to
the block at the same time). It is very strong and has little 'body' when
set, so it's used to bond a new piece of wood onto the area you wish to
repair -- just use enough glue to cover the place to be repaired and don't
get it on the surface, because it's water-resistant so water-based pigments
won't soak into gluey surfaces and those areas will print lighter than
adjacent glueless surfaces...

A quick and easy way to effect a small repair is to use a gouge to prepare
a wood-chip and then use the same gouge to nearly the same depth on the
area to be repaired -- then you use the super-glue to bond the chip into
the trough and a sharp flat chisel to plane the surface back flat and even
with the rest of the block and then carve as usual to the desired
profile. VERY quick and easy repair with perfect fit and I'm ashamed to
say I've used the technique a large number of times to recover little
'goofs'. Works great!

- -- Mike


Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com

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Message 7
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 12:16:12 EDT
Subject: [Baren 28222] transfering images
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With laq. thinner do it out side and use gloves. Tape zerox copy to
board, take rag lightly get it wet with laq thinner then rub the back of the zerox
after you have lightly applied the laq thinner rub the back of the zerox
copy with a wood spoon the image should transfer to the woodblock and backwards
too which is a nice plus.

Another way to transfer images to your wood block using zerox copies is to
print them on your block. The advantage is that it gives you much clear detail
but is more work.

what you need
gum arabic
sponge
oil based printing ink
roller
sheet of glass or plastic
bowl of water (old one as it will get dirty)
baren, wood spoon or printing press (your choice)

process;
put gum arabic on the back of your zerox smoothing it out
place zerox face up on a sheet of glass or plastic
put gum arabic on the front of the zerox smoothing it out
wipe the zerox off with a wet sponge
roll up the wiped zerox with oil based ink (ink should be rather loose but
in thing layer)
repeat wipe and roll a couple of time
carefully talke damp inked zerox and place it face down on your block and
print it.

hint zerox should have good contrast grays don't work well.

john c

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Message 8
From: "marilynn smih"
Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 09:34:12 -0700
Subject: [Baren 28223] RE: Baren Digest (old) V32 #3111
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Annie, I have used Elmers wood glue with a hanga block and had no problems with it. I have to admit though that I seldom repair I usually just incorporate slips into the image.
Marilynn

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Message 9
From: "Matt Laine"
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 13:44:14 -0400
Subject: [Baren 28224] Re: Crazy Glue
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Thanks, Mike ---
Okay, it's just a matter of using an adhesive to bond a replacement piece of
wood to the block to make the repair. Really not so startling. I thought
perhaps the glue was used as a filler.
Matt

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Message 10
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 16:38:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 28225] Re: transfering images
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This is a little harder than it sounds here...it is called a litho transfer as it is rolled up like a litho...the trick is to get it down well with the gum on the surface you want to roll up, otherwise it will curl around the roller...you need to sponge a fair amount, but very carefully and roll it up like a litho, no pressure and a quick snap of the roller, don't delay but roll slowly, then sponge. Like anything else the 10th one you do will be a lot better than the first one. A xerox is not very strong paper so it tears easily, I use a piece of mylar, taping it to the table, then laying the gum down, then the xerox and then more gum. This will ensure that you can pick up the entire mylar and not have to lift the edges of the wet gummed xerox, which will of course tear when wet.
best to all,
Barbara

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Message 11
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 17:55:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 28226] Barbara and chicago
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Hi Friends,
A sad wrinkle in my trip to Chicago....
Aaron Watkins who was scheduled to show after mine at Lux Gallery and was a partner in the gallery died suddenly...this is a tragic event. He was very young. The party is cancelled on the 7th of July as they are all in shock and mourning...but I am still going to Chicago. It is too hard to reschedule and the tickets are non-refundable. So I will see my work hanging and have none of the stress of an opening party. This is such a devestating thing for them all and although I did not know Aaron, I can understand not wanting to have this party so soon after his death. He was the age of my sons...this is just so very sad for his family and all who knew him.

We baren people are planning to get together for dinner, Julio Rodriguez, Sharen Linder, John Center, Linda Kelen, Dean and Susan Clark and myself...if all works out we will find a suitable place and have our own little party. I am announcing this on the list in case anyone else was planning to come to the gallery on Thursday night as now it will not be open.

I will still report on the trip...Chicago is a wonderful city and I am looking forward to being a tourist for 3 days.
Best to all,
Barbara

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