In response to the thread on sharpening tools. There is quite a
varied number of tools available and maybe confusing to the inexperienced. The
concept is very simple. The tool is rubbed back and forth on various grit at
a certain angle to obtain the keen edge desired. The edge of the well
sharpened tool when inspected under a strong light should reflect no light
and appear as a thin black line and honed to mirror finish.
Stones which are available in two different configurations, oil
and water. Of the two I recommend the water stone which is available through
Lee Valley Tools. You will need two different grits, medium coarse of 800xx
to 1200xx and a fine 0f 4000xx to 8000xx. My choice is the larger size in
1200xx and the 4000xx. along with these purchase a chunk of Nagura to help
raise a slurry on the 4000xx or 8000xx stones. Do not use on the coarser stones
as it will contaminate it.
Next you will need to take the edge though a anther step, which will acquire the
final finish. This is even a finer grit, there is quite a few products available
such as the traditional leather strop charged with chromium oxide (the funny looking
green bar) micro grit (9000xx) in the standard sandpaper form using a chromium oxide.
I would recommend both. The sandpaper form allows one to hone more difficult surfaces
such as the inside of the"V" and round gouge by gluing the sandpaper too a wooden or wood
strip in the shape desired.
The Ward print might be real. In the 80's you could buy his prints for
reasonable prices. I bought one when I lived in Boston. I love it! It's
called Caged Uncaged. The Library of Congress was recently given lots of
his prints, blocks and tools by his daughter. I saw the block for Cup of
Sky when I went there to do an interview for the Md Printmakers newsletter
for the SGC conference. The block is beautiful! So intricately carved.
Shireen
Joe
Do the watercolor users add paste to the watercolor?
Matt
Matt,
I use the rice paste or Nori, on my blocks and I use a watercolor type color.
The paste can help the paper stay in position. Also it can work as an extender which gives body to the color. I have read that the combined thickness of the paste and color, when the baren pressure is applied, helps force the color into the paper. The amount of nori is something to experiment with on your blocks. Once I establish the nori on my brush, I do not use it with every impression. I look at how my color is coming off onto my blocks and add or subtract the amount of paste. It's a feel.
Rebecca Salter's book Japanese Woodblock Printing has a recipe and other Nori facts. In the Baren library there are explanations of nori and other facts.
Joe
Sorry ignore the post not ready or complete, some how it got sent when saved. Richard.
I do ........
Cheers ..... Charles
Mary Ann,
Your mosaic of the skull is quite powerful beautiful
in color and composition,and really draws the eye.
Nice work!
Robin Morris
This is a long overdue report on the Hanga presentation by Marco at the
Asian Museum in San Francisco last November. Report?! This is a rave, uncurbed
enthusiasm.
Marco's presentation during an entire week was his demonstration and
exhibit of his specialty, woodblock portraits. It was a most ideal situation,
location, location , location and that of a real pro in work and delivery ..
There was plenty of room in the middle of the Museum rotunda for his organized
hanga setup of carving , printing , and display stations. Viewers were able to
sit and watch while carrying on a Q&A with him. While I was there an evidently
experienced artist was asking some very savvy questions. Marco was wonderful
at explaining things and illuminating the hanga process . He also showed
some of his own ways of printing and carving.
My description cannot match the experience!
Marco was planning to do some interesting creative work with a group in the
future. I'll let him tell about it.
Carol Lyons
Irvington, NY
The two prints are from God's Man and while the blocks are close to the ones in the book, they are exact. I know that this doesn't mean anything because he could of created several blocks of the same image. Its the signature or lack of one that makes me think it's not real. It is only his initials and both prints are signed the same with, it seems, the same pencil. There is something in the signature and date that makes me distrust it. It is a real print but in this time of technology, someone can easily make a duplicate block with a laser engraver. I have seen it happen. I have lots of experience with with handy "tool" and loved using it with my own imagery. But I have seen others use it to duplicate other's work. That crosses the line for me.
-Amanda Yopp
>The Ward print might be real. In the 80's you could buy his prints
>for reasonable prices. I bought one when I lived in Boston. I love
>it! It's called Caged Uncaged. The Library of Congress was recently
>given lots of his prints, blocks and tools by his daughter. I saw
>the block for Cup of Sky when I went there to do an interview for
>the Md Printmakers newsletter for the SGC conference. The block is
>beautiful! So intricately carved.
>Shireen
Hi everyone,
Yesterday I bought my tools, the 5 piece Japanese set from Lee Valley. Now
I just need to get some wood.
I would like to thank everyone for their advice and suggestions.
Woodblock wise, I will be in the Victoria, BC area for a conference and on
the way home will visit Graham Scholes studio. I already contacted him to
confirm that he would be there. It should be fun.
I look forward to all of the emails waiting after my return.
Oody
__________
Ehud Yaniv
Still Light Photography
www.still-light.com
Amanda,
I have a friend who went to the printer that Lyn Ward used in Boston and there were stacks and stacks of work piled up. It seems they made an awful lot and he only signed a few. At any rate I would bet they are unsigned origianls. Guess it has all be donated now, so no longer so accessable at reasonable prices. to bad we have to die to get good prices! Ha.
Best to all,
Barbara