Today's postings

  1. [Baren 27428] Re: 1st Timer part duex (FurryPressII # aol.com)
  2. [Baren 27429] Re: 1st Timer part duex (Daniel Dew)
  3. [Baren 27430] Re: 1st Timer part duex ("Joseph Sheridan")
  4. [Baren 27431] First Time Hanga Boy (Daniel Dew)
  5. [Baren 27432] Re: Introduction (CaveArtist # aol.com)
  6. [Baren 27433] Re: Introduction ("Diane Cutter")
  7. [Baren 27434] pigment for beginning hanga, tools (cucamongie # aol.com)
  8. [Baren 27435] Re: pigment for beginning hanga, tools (FurryPressII # aol.com)
  9. [Baren 27436] Sharp tools... ("Connie Lambert")
  10. [Baren 27437] RE: Sharp tools... ("Ehud Yaniv")
  11. [Baren 27438] Re: pigment for beginning hanga, tools (Barbara Mason)
  12. [Baren 27439] Re: Sharp tools... (Barbara Mason)
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Message 1
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:27:02 EST
Subject: [Baren 27428] Re: 1st Timer part duex
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It all depends on were I am doing my cutting. A lot of times I am at a
coffee house where bringing a large wet stone is one too many things to carry. When
in places where it is hard to bring such things, I bring a sheet of 1600 grit
wet dry finishing sand paper.

Looking over my shoulder, hum no cat. Lots of different ways to skin the
CAT. I prefer oil based printing ink for a number of different reasons. The
main reason is that I could not do the type of work I am interested in any
other way. An example it is much easer to print light colors over dark in oil
based printing.

Because I came to wood cuts from wood engraving which I had done for 10
years before I got into wood cuts I guess I like the handling of engraving tools
when I use wood cut tools. This goes back to the skinning the cat example.
I don't feel any one way is correct in how we do it.

john c.
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Message 2
From: Daniel Dew
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:53:19 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27429] Re: 1st Timer part duex
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Thank you, have plenty of water colors.

My guess is that for ratios, just play around?

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Message 3
From: "Joseph Sheridan"
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 17:11:52 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27430] Re: 1st Timer part duex
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Dan,
Ratios will equal depth of color. So start light and build up the strength to what you like. Remember in Hanga multiple printing of the same color can add great depth to your design. The ratio of paste to color will also change how your color comes off the block. In the Yoshida Hiroshi book (in Baren library) he explains that the ratio of paste to color can bring out the grain of the wood or a flatter look. Oh, I found out the hard way.. too much paste will pull the paper fibers onto your block and cause a mess ! Don't do that !
LOT to play around with, Dan
Joe
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Message 4
From: Daniel Dew
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 17:15:23 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27431] First Time Hanga Boy
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Well, I now officially have a blister on my finger from carving too
much!
My first attempt is nearing the point that I can print.
7 color blocks, pretty intricate design.
It will either be very nice or a total mess. We'll see.


Daniel L. Dew
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Message 5
From: CaveArtist # aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 17:31:11 EST
Subject: [Baren 27432] Re: Introduction
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Hi Dale and welcome,

I'm a new Baren member too, and still relatively inexperienced in
printmaking. Against this group, it's about this much! (holds up pinched together fingers)

I'm a neighbor of yours near Reinbeck, Iowa. My entry into printmaking is my
letterpress, a Vandercook proof press. So far, I have done some simple lino
cuts and one reduction cut. I'm very interested in book arts and am working on
developing my repertoire of bindings by taking the occasional workshop. I
admire the study of printmaking also and perhaps will take a class at UNI sometime.
For now, it's exploring by trial and error.

I hope you will post some images, but of course would love to see your work
in person, too.
I think you will find this a very valuable forum for technical and creative
and business advice.

Best,
Julie


Julie Russell-Steuart
editor
Caveworks Press
letterpress artist's books and poetry
www.caveworkspress.com
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Message 6
From: "Diane Cutter"
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:59:53 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27433] Re: Introduction
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Welcome, Dale...

You're my hero... a Takach press! Every time I go home to Albuquerque I visit the guys at Takach and say 'next year...' while buying my yearly dose of Akua. This is a great place to pick up all sorts of info, especially on hanga. Everyone here is so very helpful. You'll find a real home here...

Diane...

www.dianecutter.com -- New oil paintings (calla lilies)
www.WetCanvas.com - internet artist community
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Message 7
From: cucamongie # aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 19:04:04 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27434] pigment for beginning hanga, tools
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Dan, I agree with those who recommended using watercolor paint for someone just trying hanga out, however, if you want a more opaque effect and stronger color, use gouache instead of watercolor.

As for tools, to each his own, that's for sure, but I have to say that personally I find the Japanese tools superior to the American tools not only in design, but as they are made from a different material than the American tools, you are able to sharpen them to a finer edge more easily than the American tools.

whatever tools and pigments you use, enjoy!!

happy carving and printing,
Sarah
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Message 8
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 19:20:38 EST
Subject: [Baren 27435] Re: pigment for beginning hanga, tools
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can you buy the Japanese tools without the handles?

john c.
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Message 9
From: "Connie Lambert"
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 19:02:27 -0600
Subject: [Baren 27436] Sharp tools...
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I have the Japanese set of 5 carving tools although I think they say Power
Grip on them. Purchased from Woodcrafters, woodworking store here in St.
Louis.

Although I am positive they are no longer wickedly sharp. And may even be
rather dull. The problem is I am "blade sharpening challenged". I can't even
figure out how to sharpen my kitchen knives. I've watched others do it, but
I'm uncertain if I am duplicating the right motion.
My question is, do I take them back to the woodworking shop and have someone
sharpen them? Do I attempt to sharpen them myself? If so, someone please
talk me through it? Or do I start over with a new set? I would think my set
would be usable if sharpened, correct? What about the U-shaped tool?

I'm sure I'd enjoy carving more with sharp tools.
Thanks any advice is appreciated, Connie

Oody,
I agree with others. Just PRINT, you don't need letters after your name for
that.
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Message 10
From: "Ehud Yaniv"
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 18:00:29 -0800
Subject: [Baren 27437] RE: Sharp tools...
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>...Oody,
>I agree with others. Just PRINT, you don't need letters after your name for
>that.


Connie (and others),

I hope I did not offend people with mentioning my qualifications. That
comment was directed to the fact that Jan is in grad school and that I could
not even consider doing that right now as I have spent so much of my life in
University.

If I have offended, please forgive me :).

And sharpening is a real skill. I still have some knives that I cannot
sharpen if my life depended on them.

Oody
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Message 11
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 20:46:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 27438] Re: pigment for beginning hanga, tools
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John,
Yes, the inserts are available. Let me know what you want and I will get you a price.
Barbara, Mall Manager
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Message 12
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 20:50:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 27439] Re: Sharp tools...
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Connie,
You need a magnifying glass so you can see what you are doing, get one from Graphic Chemical, only $8 and it is fabulous. 10 power so you can really see those little gems to see how you are coming along. You can see where you have sharpened as it will be shiny. I am sure there are good descriptions of how to sharpen in the archives...go to archives, then down to the bottom of the page to the google search box. Put in tool sharpening and probably lots of stuff will come up.
As soon as I got that little magnifying glass my tool sharpening really got better!
Best to you,
Barbara