I wrote a little bit about recent developments in my woodblock printmaking
technique for the Union College exhibition and thought you might enjoy
reading some of it -- it's available on-line in PDF format including
photo-illustrations here:
http://www.mlyon.com/prints/relief/2005_01_10_Union_College_Essays.pdf The
following is text only, of course...
MULTI-BLOCK PRINTING…
In March, 2004 I acquired a "ShopBot PRT-96" (www.shopbottools.com) which
is a three-axis CNC (Computer Numerically Controlled) machine and came
already equipped with a router. This type of machine seems to be used
primarily by sign-makers, but seems ideal for accurately carving blocks for
printmaking as well!
The blocks for four of the prints in the exhibition at Union College were
carved using my CNC tool which can carve an area slightly larger than a 4x8
foot sheet of plywood ( "Combing Hair" was designed and hand-carved exactly
as outlined in the "REDUCTION PRINTING…" article). The individual blocks
for those four prints were designed using my digital photographs as sources
and were all machine-carved from cabinet-grade ¼" plywood with a cherry
veneer. The primary router bit I used for these blocks was a 90 degree
"V-Bit". V-bits are ideal as the width of the line they produce varies
according to the depth of the cut, so shallow cuts produce narrow grooves
and deeper cuts produce wider grooves… By carefully controlling the depth
of the cuts, I can accurately machine very delicate details (but not as
delicate as I am able to carve by hand). Even though I can cut more
refined lines by hand, I can not carve nearly as fast as I can code the
tool-paths for the machine, and I can print while the machine is busy
carving - carving large blocks takes a LONG time and already 53 years old,
there seems to be so little time and so much to do! This year I will
attempt some much larger woodcuts - on the order of 4 x 6 feet or more, and
the sort of images I'm interested in making would be an overwhelming job if
not for my carving machine!
Hand-printing these relatively large prints is physically quite demanding -
just handling the paper (I work alone) can be an almost overwhelming
challenge! So I'd like to tell you a little about how I've worked toward
solving some of the problems as the scale of my work has increased.
My woodcuts are registered and printed using "Traditional Japanese
Technique" which means that aqueous color is brushed onto the blocks (not
rolled) usually using a brush which looks a lot like a small shoe-brush,
and the color is pressed into the damp paper using a a printing pad about 5
inches in diameter called a "baren" (no printing press is involved).
The paper for all my prints in the exhibition was hand made by Iwano
Ichibei, designated "Living National Treasure" of paper making by the
Japanese Government. His paper is very strong - it has to be in order to
survive intact the 15 to 30 over-printings I make in order to achieve the
darkest areas of my prints.
Although Iwano-san's paper is very strong, during printing it is quite damp
and limp - something like a wet sheet - you can imagine how hard it can be
to handle thin paper in that condition -- and to be able to accurately
register it on the block without having all the sheets become smudged by
drooping onto the surface of the block prematurely!
In order to handle larger (20 x 30 inch) sheets alone, I designed and built
(using the CNC machine, of course) a nifty and portable plywood table (the
parts lock together by simple hooks and slots carved into each piece).
Attached to the table is a Plexiglas "humidor" (also cut on the
machine). The humidor is necessary in order to keep the sheets properly
damp between printings - traditionally the prints are smaller and are
simply stacked up inside damp newsprint. So I 'invented' the humidor -- it
is equipped with two drawers - the top one is manually operated and it is
where I place the sheets just printed - and the bottom one is opened by
stepping on the foot pedal which you might be able to make out in the lower
of the two table photos above -- it closes by counter-weight which you can
see hanging from the back of the humidor. The bottom drawer is my
'solution' to handling the larger paper - it opens right over the block to
be printed - I slide the sheet over the very smooth lip of the shallow
drawer and can easily register it into the two kento (corner and side
registration) on the block just below. Then I slowly release my foot from
the "pedal" and… VOILA! As the drawer slides shut, the paper slides out
of the drawer and settles onto the block in exactly the right way! It's
easy and very positive, and has allowed me to print those larger sizes with
ease!
The plywood blocks are only ¼" thick and very flimsy and bendy. In order
to hold them in place and keep them absolutely flat during printing, the
table is equipped with a "vacuum plenum", in this instance, a sheet of ¾"
MDF with grooves cut into both sides to allow free air passage inside - a
small vacuum cleaner provides more than enough suction (a pound or two per
square inch) to hold the block dead-flat and solidly in place during printing!
-- Mike
Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com