Well hello,
now that I am back from Japan, recovered from being mugged on Halloween
and back from Italy (2 days ago), I figured I would let you know about
what were the salient points I have been able to distill from my stay
with Dave. First of all, many thanks to you, Dave, for the help and the
time, but we went over this already, so here it goes:
First and foremost... the baren and how to tie it. I know he is a pain
in the neck about it, but I can vouch for him, having had the chance of
trying several ones, different sizes, different coarseness, more or
less oil, that the difference of feel of a properly tied baren cannot
be stated enough. It transfers better the power of the arm and the
upper body, the energy of the tool itself, it affects how sensitive it
is to the underlying relief... everything is affected by how loose is
that damn leaf. It is a testament to that that I kept preferring my
almost wrecked leaf tied by the maker on a Murasaki that the Hon barens
Dave had, where the leaf had been replaced. But we can get there...
it's just a little bit at a time... I bought 60 leaves there and I am
getting better by the day. Sometimes one wishes not to hear certain
news but they are what they are. We can go on saying that it makes no
difference, but I guess it depends on what kind of result you are
trying to achieve. For a consistent edition of prints, you have to
control your tools, not them your work. Trust me the way it is tied
makes a difference... and take it up with me... Dave is a lot more
diplomatic than I am....
Second, the transparency of pigments... when I look at the work I did
there, I realize that too often we rely on a design that does not take
into consideration the amazing effects that can be created by taking
advantage of how the layers can be applied on top of each other almost
endlessly... take advantage of this possibility, it is remarkable and
particular to this technique... and remember, even the lightest colors
need pressure for body... gomazuri can work... but as we tried, solid
applications of dark even colors are amazing... almost underwater-like.
I highly recommend it!
Third... the blade with the flat side on the side of the line... I know
many keys on many computers have been worn out by debating over this. I
did not do it because I did not understand... it gives much crisper
lines, especially with softer woods that have a tendency of
expanding... when water is added.
Fourth: Even ball-bearing barens flatten... in my case I had to open
mine and add different size disks concentrically to rebuild a slight
concave effect... it took work, but the baren is great now... almost
better than new... so if you are not happy with your baren, test it for
curvature... it should have a slight dome.
Fourth: Japanese transparent inks are beautiful... but made for prints
to be kept inside a box or books... if you want to hang them, you will
have a nice surprise in a year or so... mind your lightfastness. I am
serious about this. Buy at Guerra Paint in New York, or Kremer in the
same city.
Fifth: Occasionally Hide Glue is necessary for certain pigments... it
does make a difference for even deep coverage. Or gum arabic... do add
it for extra body... smooth and velvety...
Sixth: We tried different size mica for metal backgrounds, and the
coarseness of its grain seem to affect it... if too small... it did not
shine... if you are fighting with this... try one size up... or ask me.
Well, thank you.... more to come as I play more... and practice tying
that baren... you can thank me later.
ciao,
Marco Flavio
And Dave, thanks again... maybe you will try some overlays like the
ones I came up with in my tests... I would love to see that in one of
your prints!
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Marco Flavio Marinucci
Woodblock Portraiture
http://www.athomefaraway.com