Megan Kay wrote:
>I would like to print a flat gold relief print- the image being completely
>gold. I am sorta clear on how to do this based on his instructions, but I
>would like to hear what others have to say and any problems they may have
>encountered printing this way or solutions or things to watch out
>for...Also, for the same project (there is three parts) I will be using
>the mica powder. I haven't decided whether to print it as a flat field for
>the image or to mix it in to the ink.
Metallic and mica powders -- here's what worked for me:
Fast and produces 'pretty good' results with metallics and good results
with mica:
Print a layer of glue (warm and thin hide glue -- it's stronger than
rice-paste which also works, but glue is better, especially for metal
powders) using light pressure of baren so glue stays on surface and doesn't
get pushed into the paper too much. If the paper is reasonably dry, the
slightly more pigment/mica/metal than you need can be applied directly to
the gluey areas and brushed all over with a VERY soft brush, then the
excess poured off (turn the sheet on its side and tap a few times) for
straining and re-use, then a slightly stiffer brush can be used to remove
powder from non-gluey areas. If the paper is too damp when you do this, a
dusting of powder will adhere in non-glue-printed areas, too which is
usually not very pleasing. A way to reduce this 'halo' is to apply the
powder through a stencil so it only goes where the glue is printed. Paper
must still be fairly dry to prevent the powder from sticking where you
don't want it. This is a one-pass method as over-printing tends to make a
mess.
Best results: print glue layer as above, then brush additional glue onto
block and apply powder to block, brushing it out lightly, then print sheet
and powder will adhere VERY well to paper -- this produces an effect which
closely resembles leafing. But it takes twice as long and is somewhat
messier as the powder builds up on the block and in the brushes and those
must be cleaned every so many prints. Can be over-printed to improve coverage.
Mica: Mica application is usually not very interesting or pronounced when
applied over light areas, but is VERY effective when printed over dark
areas -- mica over dead black produces a sparkly mid-gray. Mica over beige
is very subtle and barely noticeable.
David Bull's instructions are excellent and complete -- if you follow them
you will get results.
You already have your materials -- its EASY to experiment -- and you
definitely should spend an hour or two experimenting with different methods
and amounts and over different colors before you finalize the plan for your
prints!
Looking forward to seeing your finished prints, Megan!
-- Mike
Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com