Hello there,
The standard way of truing stones is to take a piece of plate glass ( I have
used an 8X10 piece from a very cheap frame) slightly wet it, put a piece of
sandpaper on it ( any hardware store should have a selection of grades, but
make sure you get the ones with the waterproof backing), and grind the stone
against it. The sandpaper should stick to the glass by suction. Rotate the
stone against the glass. I would start with a 150 grit working up to a 600
grit, but it depends on how shiny you want your stone to become, Some start
with 80 grit and go to 1200 grit or higher... It depends on some degree on
how coarse and unflat the stones are to begin with. If you want the stone to
be truly flat you can spend a fortune on specially made flat glass or stone
from specialty shops. It works because the standards for even cheap flat
glass windows is quite high. I flatten all my water stones ( which I use to
sharpen my carving tools) in this way.
-Andrew
For people who receive the digest version of the Baren Forum messages,
here is one you may have missed as it did not show in the html version
of the digest.
~Gayle Wohlken
Baren Forum Archivist
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From: bslane@myuw.net
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 22:41:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 25041] I'm a newbie to Baren
Hello All,
I stumbled upon your fine community recently when I was searching for
print groups
and exchanges. I am a few years removed from the U. of WA (seattle)
print program.
I 've been a printmaker for about 6 years now and actually am just
returning to
woodblock and linocuts. My interest in woodblocks is due in part to
the mexican
printmakers such as Leopoldo Mendez, Jose Posada, Elizabeth Catlett,
and others
members of the TGP from 1910 - 1950's. I admire their use of woodblock
as a tool to
communicate and make social change I also am fascinated with the
Eastern European
Ex-Libris prints. A bit of an odd combination, perhaps it's something
about the narrative
that I like.
I look forward to taking part in the swapshop and hopefully some of the
exchanges soon.
(the baren galleries are fantastic!!!!!!!!) In the meantime I would be
remiss if I didn't
mention that I am organizing a print exchange and 2 shows. We did one
earlier this year
and of the 31 participants I believe 15 did woodblocks / linocuts. I
invite all of you
to participate. The info is below.
Cheers,
Brian Lane
----------------------------
CALL TO PRINTMAKERS
Print Zero Studios - Print Exchange #2
This is a non-juried call to artists to be part of our 2nd print
exchange.
Each artist is to create an edition of 15 prints, 5" X 7" paper size,
incorporating at least one printmaking process. (Strictly digital
prints will not be accepted.) The print exchange will be shown in
both Seattle, WA & Laramie, WY. The deadline is June 15, 2004.
For complete information & prospectus, or to see all 31 images
from our previous print exchange please go to our website.
www.printzerostudios.com
Brian Lane bslane#myuw.net
Jeremy Cody printzero#hotmail.com
Hi ,
There are 2 openings for Lefties carvers
Some suggestions for images:
1. Left-handed Busycon.
All shells have their opening on the right side except the Left-handed
Busycon. Naturally and happily left-handed and that's how it's always been.
2. Left Bank, Paris
3. I Left my Heart in San Francisco.
This is actually a 3 storey sculpture in a park on the Bay. When it was
going up I was mystified but when it was finished it was a wonderful statement.
4. What's for dinner? --Leftovers.
5. Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend--the ones on the Left ring finger.
6. Carving on the Left side of the Brain.
More?--that's Left to your imagination.
Ouch! I should have left that out.
Carol has Left the building.
Thanks, Andrew ....... that was MOST helpful!!
Cheers ...... Charles
Hello Charles and Andrew,
I have my own sort of peculiar ways of trying to work
pipestone.
For honing, first I use a flat square or slightly
altered to round edge sculpting tool (1 inch) and
shave of the rough spots, punding the handle with my
padded palm or a light lignum vitae mallet or rubber
mallet works fine to me and if real sharp tends to
bring out the silky surface below the rough.
Afterwards, if I want more I grind it old style by
hand with a palm size piece of flat sandstone in a
water tray. My tray can also spin with a foot peddle
like in ceramics. then I use slate plates to get it
smoother or else go back to the hand tool in water,
working slivers off as I choose. Sort of sliding the
cutter back and forth. or fore and aft I guess.
I don't really care if it is even as you can color the
levels with a rubber swab (gotta make this too.)
I like the lines left from scraping. Sometimes I've
tried to ink it up by rolling or painting ink onto a
small square of rubber stamp rubber, and I had some
blank stamps made for this as well.
I have been experiementing with this because right
now my shop in in major renovation and most of my
equpiment is stored, but I came across my box of
pipestone and a great metal scraper that I used to use
for furniture and wood surfacing.
You could also rental a wet saw from UHAUL or
someplace, for ceramics to get the first cut if it's
really too rough.
For polishing I just use a variety of rouge on my
buffing wheel. Some of the red rouge has ipestone in
the compound. The white stuff may get gummy on you.
There's also a gree rouge and I forget the name oof
it.
I don't know how to post photos on Baren. Do you???
Maybe at the end ot the year we can have a pipestone
exhange. My shop won't be ready before fall.
Thanks for your notes guys.
Mary in Mexico where mucho es Hecho en Mexico