Today's postings
- [Baren 44517] image transfer (Linda Beeman)
- [Baren 44518] transfer methods (Cucamongie # aol.com)
- [Baren 44519] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V57 #5794 (Nov 2, 2011) (Catherine Dreiss)
- [Baren 44520] Carbon Paper (Carole Dwinell)
- [Baren 44521] transfers OR NOT ("bobcatpath # 207me.com")
- [Baren 44522] Re: Large image transfer to the woodblock (quick1 # telenet.be)
- [Baren 44523] Re: New Baren Digest (5793): Re: Large image transfer to the woodblock (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 44524] ideas for drying rack needed (Rozemarijn Oudejans)
- [Baren 44525] Re: ideas for drying rack needed (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 44526] Re: ideas for drying rack needed (Gretchen Greene)
- [Baren 44527] Re: rubber fonts? (key sevn)
Message 1
From: Linda Beeman
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 13:14:17 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44517] image transfer
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I use the double sided red carbon from McClains. Works way better than carbon or graphite and because it's double sided you can see on your drawing where you've transfered and where you haven't.
http://www.imcclains.com/catalog/blocks/redcarbonpaper.html
http://www.lindajbeeman.com
http://lindabeemanprintmaker.blogspot.com
Message 2
From: Cucamongie # aol.com
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 13:41:41 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44518] transfer methods
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indeed, different carbon papers are of different quality - you may have to
try a few different types to find which one works best. But that's the
method I use most.
and heads up re the blender method, it does work very well, but don't use
it unless it is possible for you to have really good ventilation, the fumes
are extremely toxic. especially if you are transferring a very large
image.
I find the same holds true for using the citrusy stuff - it works well, but
very important to have good ventilation or you can end up with a serious
headache!!
again, a reason why I stick to carbon paper if I can, even for a big
woodblock :)
Sarah
try a few different types to find which one works best. But that's the
method I use most.
and heads up re the blender method, it does work very well, but don't use
it unless it is possible for you to have really good ventilation, the fumes
are extremely toxic. especially if you are transferring a very large
image.
I find the same holds true for using the citrusy stuff - it works well, but
very important to have good ventilation or you can end up with a serious
headache!!
again, a reason why I stick to carbon paper if I can, even for a big
woodblock :)
Sarah
Message 3
From: Catherine Dreiss
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 14:19:16 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44519] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V57 #5794 (Nov 2, 2011)
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Hello, I am a frequent lurker who finally wanted to chime in on the image
transfer question. My reduction woodcuts are very large (3 x 4 feet,
often). I definitely prefer to transfer with Saral paper, but when the
image is very detailed I output the plans at an architect's service bureau.
I provide them PDFs at the exact size of my block and they print on a
continuous roll of paper, which is 30 inches wide. Occasionally, I have to
piece the outputs together. It is surprisingly inexpensive, too. I glue the
outputs face up to my block (usually baltic birch plywood) using a diluted
bookbinder's glue and a lot of help from my husband.
It is a tremendous timesaver at the front end, and I feel more confident of
my marks. On the backend, I have to spend a lot of time peeling up the
paper that is left on the uncarved areas and if I am sloppy, a lot of
debris gets into my ink. But it's worth it!
I think I got this idea when David Bull mentioned somewhere that
traditional Japanese carvers glued tracing paper to their blocks.
You can see my prints on Inkteraction or at
http://www.moberggallery.com/dreiss_portfolio.shtml
Best wishes,
Catherine Dreiss
transfer question. My reduction woodcuts are very large (3 x 4 feet,
often). I definitely prefer to transfer with Saral paper, but when the
image is very detailed I output the plans at an architect's service bureau.
I provide them PDFs at the exact size of my block and they print on a
continuous roll of paper, which is 30 inches wide. Occasionally, I have to
piece the outputs together. It is surprisingly inexpensive, too. I glue the
outputs face up to my block (usually baltic birch plywood) using a diluted
bookbinder's glue and a lot of help from my husband.
It is a tremendous timesaver at the front end, and I feel more confident of
my marks. On the backend, I have to spend a lot of time peeling up the
paper that is left on the uncarved areas and if I am sloppy, a lot of
debris gets into my ink. But it's worth it!
I think I got this idea when David Bull mentioned somewhere that
traditional Japanese carvers glued tracing paper to their blocks.
You can see my prints on Inkteraction or at
http://www.moberggallery.com/dreiss_portfolio.shtml
Best wishes,
Catherine Dreiss
Message 4
From: Carole Dwinell
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 15:31:28 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44520] Carbon Paper
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May I suggest that you investigate McClain's red carbon paper. I
believe it is made especially for block printing though I'm not sure
of that. It is double sided, has excellent transfer qualities. In
fact, you can use the same piece over and over again (at least for a
while!) The link to the exact page is -->> http://imcclains.com/catalog/blocks/redcarbonpaper.html
Hope this helps. It's great stuff!
Best,
Carole
dwinell.carole@gmail.com
http://caroledwinell.blogspot.com
www.caroledwinell.com
"Today is the day to DO it!"
believe it is made especially for block printing though I'm not sure
of that. It is double sided, has excellent transfer qualities. In
fact, you can use the same piece over and over again (at least for a
while!) The link to the exact page is -->> http://imcclains.com/catalog/blocks/redcarbonpaper.html
Hope this helps. It's great stuff!
Best,
Carole
dwinell.carole@gmail.com
http://caroledwinell.blogspot.com
www.caroledwinell.com
"Today is the day to DO it!"
Message 5
From: "bobcatpath # 207me.com"
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:25:31 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44521] transfers OR NOT
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hi bareners
i really DISlike transferring images at all
so if you don't need to keep your original
just place it face down on block
can glue it or tape it
and carve right thru the paper with your knife
you will have a knife line drawing EXACTLY like your image
people often ask me how i get such good likeness of ,say , people/animals
this is how
gillyin
i really DISlike transferring images at all
so if you don't need to keep your original
just place it face down on block
can glue it or tape it
and carve right thru the paper with your knife
you will have a knife line drawing EXACTLY like your image
people often ask me how i get such good likeness of ,say , people/animals
this is how
gillyin
Message 6
From: quick1 # telenet.be
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 19:31:39 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44522] Re: Large image transfer to the woodblock
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Many many thanks for the respond on this topic so far.
As I live in Europe (Belgium), not all supplies and materials are available.
All methods will be investigated and if possible tried out.
In Januari, I visit the USA, for three weeks. I will search then for some of the materials.
Someone from an art school, suggested to screenprint the image. The only problem is to have access to a screenprint facility that has large screens.
Maybe another possibility is to print (inkjet) directly on the woodblock. A friend told of a firm that has a large format inkjet printer that can print on material that is 2 inches thick maximum. I will contact this firm and ask for some test prints on wood. Maybe is the cost to high.
See: http://www.zo-te-zien.be/ for an image of the inkjet printer. Sorry but all text is in dutch.
The best to all of you,
Luc
As I live in Europe (Belgium), not all supplies and materials are available.
All methods will be investigated and if possible tried out.
In Januari, I visit the USA, for three weeks. I will search then for some of the materials.
Someone from an art school, suggested to screenprint the image. The only problem is to have access to a screenprint facility that has large screens.
Maybe another possibility is to print (inkjet) directly on the woodblock. A friend told of a firm that has a large format inkjet printer that can print on material that is 2 inches thick maximum. I will contact this firm and ask for some test prints on wood. Maybe is the cost to high.
See: http://www.zo-te-zien.be/ for an image of the inkjet printer. Sorry but all text is in dutch.
The best to all of you,
Luc
Message 7
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 20:33:57 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44523] Re: New Baren Digest (5793): Re: Large image transfer to the woodblock
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Terry,
Use graphite paper, not carbon paper...I think it will work better for you
McClains has some new stuff you put through the ink jet printer and then rub it onto the plate...it worked like magic and did not rub off...I forget what it is called but it was only 8.5x11 inches. It might come larger but I don't know that they carry it any bigger
Barbara
Use graphite paper, not carbon paper...I think it will work better for you
McClains has some new stuff you put through the ink jet printer and then rub it onto the plate...it worked like magic and did not rub off...I forget what it is called but it was only 8.5x11 inches. It might come larger but I don't know that they carry it any bigger
Barbara
Message 8
From: Rozemarijn Oudejans
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 22:03:43 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44524] ideas for drying rack needed
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Last night I was on a roll. Literally. I printed the linocut (puzzle print) I made last weekend and was so excited about the result that I printed the whole edition at once (12+2 artist proofs). It was a late night and my arms were sore, but there's nothing as rewarding as a room full of new prints and the smell of fresh ink! I had hardly any misprints (I missed a few branches on the first print, as you can see), I think because I used thinner paper (BFK Rives lightweight, 115g). In combination with Caligo oil-based safe wash relief ink it works like a charm!
As you can see on one of the photos though, I'm in desperate need of a drying rack... :-) http://www.facebook.com/Printster suggestions for simple drying racks I could make myself? I was thinking of something with clothes pegs on a wire, but not sure if that would work.Thanks!
Rozemarijn Oudejanswww.printster.etsy.comwww.rozemarijnoudejans.com
Message 9
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 22:36:06 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44525] Re: ideas for drying rack needed
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It will work...everyone dries prints this way..like a clothesline.
Maria uses some type of wire rack that hangs from the ceiling
http://www.1000woodcuts.com/studio/insidestudio.html
I dry prints in blotters even it the paper is dry, because it takes up less space..might take a little longer this way but it works well for me.
Nice print!
My best
Barbara
Maria uses some type of wire rack that hangs from the ceiling
http://www.1000woodcuts.com/studio/insidestudio.html
I dry prints in blotters even it the paper is dry, because it takes up less space..might take a little longer this way but it works well for me.
Nice print!
My best
Barbara
Message 10
From: Gretchen Greene
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 22:41:52 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44526] Re: ideas for drying rack needed
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In my studio at home I have several rows of twine and 1/2" office clips (which I like better than clothespins because they don't tend to rotate which the clothespins were doing for prints I made on fabric and they are smaller to store) on the walls near the ceiling. I use that so I can have test pieces showing different techniques and different inks on different papers and cloths and different stages of different projects all up where I can see them.
It would work fine for drying prints except if your paper curls as the piece dries. In that case, you want to press it while drying.
For that, I'd get blotter paper, newsprint to keep the blotter paper clean and something flat and heavy like a thick piece of plywood or books if your prints are small. Then make a big stack (e.g. blotter, newsprint, print, newsprint, print,...newsprint, blotter, newsprint, print,...newsprint, blotter, heavy plywood.)
Gretchen
Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
It would work fine for drying prints except if your paper curls as the piece dries. In that case, you want to press it while drying.
For that, I'd get blotter paper, newsprint to keep the blotter paper clean and something flat and heavy like a thick piece of plywood or books if your prints are small. Then make a big stack (e.g. blotter, newsprint, print, newsprint, print,...newsprint, blotter, newsprint, print,...newsprint, blotter, heavy plywood.)
Gretchen
Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
Message 11
From: key sevn
Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 22:47:58 GMT
Subject: [Baren 44527] Re: rubber fonts?
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wanna look at my first use of rubber fonts?
so there is cover of tape I'm gonna release at my poor casette label.
I had a fun and gathered some experience LOL.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/40502062/CS/DSCF6976.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/40502062/CS/DSCF6988.JPG
artist: carl shultz
edition of 10
2011/10/24 Mark Phillips
> **
> There are still many places keeping letterpress alive producing lead
> type. In the US there's NA Graphics in Colorado, Don Black line Casting in
> Canada and Quaker Type. I know there is a place still producing type and
> presses in India and I know there are many active letterpress people in
> Europe. I have also picked up 2 sets of letter stamps off eBay that are
> rather old. I would be very careful on eBay with buying type though. Many
> people are breaking up perfectly good fonts of wood and metal fonts to sell
> as collectibles. An single alphabet is not a complete set so anyone
> selling such should be avoided. Also give a call around to rubber stamp
> makers in your area. Most started using lead and wood type for vulcanizing
> rubber stamps. If one is old enough they may still have an old setup in
> storage or still in use ya never know. I stumbled across one in Chicago
> several years ago and it was like walking back into the 1920s.
>
> Regards,
> Mark Phillips
> egallery http://www.graphicmarx.com
>
>
so there is cover of tape I'm gonna release at my poor casette label.
I had a fun and gathered some experience LOL.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/40502062/CS/DSCF6976.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/40502062/CS/DSCF6988.JPG
artist: carl shultz
edition of 10
2011/10/24 Mark Phillips
> **
> There are still many places keeping letterpress alive producing lead
> type. In the US there's NA Graphics in Colorado, Don Black line Casting in
> Canada and Quaker Type. I know there is a place still producing type and
> presses in India and I know there are many active letterpress people in
> Europe. I have also picked up 2 sets of letter stamps off eBay that are
> rather old. I would be very careful on eBay with buying type though. Many
> people are breaking up perfectly good fonts of wood and metal fonts to sell
> as collectibles. An single alphabet is not a complete set so anyone
> selling such should be avoided. Also give a call around to rubber stamp
> makers in your area. Most started using lead and wood type for vulcanizing
> rubber stamps. If one is old enough they may still have an old setup in
> storage or still in use ya never know. I stumbled across one in Chicago
> several years ago and it was like walking back into the 1920s.
>
> Regards,
> Mark Phillips
> egallery http://www.graphicmarx.com
>
>