Today's postings

  1. [Baren 33235] Re: caulking tubes vs antiskin spray in cans.... (Nancy McMahon-Cox)
  2. [Baren 33236] Kento Korrection (Tom Kristensen)
  3. [Baren 33237] Re: Kento Korrection (richard stockham)
  4. [Baren 33238] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V39 #3877 (Apr 24, 2007) ("Angee Lennard")
  5. [Baren 33239] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification (Blog Manager)
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Message 1
From: Nancy McMahon-Cox
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 19:13:25 -0500
Subject: [Baren 33235] Re: caulking tubes vs antiskin spray in cans....
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Hi Bonnie, Hi All,
I put aluminum foil on the tips of the caulk tubes of ink. My
colleague and pal Kate D. used to use a big wire nut(the plastic
thing you screw on to wiring connections) on the tube ends and that
worked well. I keep ink skins in the shop on the ink shelf and try
to get my students to use them and they do pretty well. I also try to
get everybody on the same page about not gouging the ink in the cans
as this causes dry ink to form down in the ink and make crumbs that
spoil your roll up. Some colors are runny and messy no matter what
you do. A bit of setswell or vaseline around the can rim makes the
cap easier to get off.
Regards - Ian Ox
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Message 2
From: Tom Kristensen
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 10:31:45 +1000
Subject: [Baren 33236] Kento Korrection
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Lynn writes;

I'm appealing to your collective wisdom to solve a
problem my brain has trouble with. I'm doing a
woodblock with 7 colorblocks. Most of the colors and
pretty much in good registration but one of them was
off. I thought it through and moved the registration
mark but unfortunately I moved it in the wrong
direction! Do any of you have techniques for solving
registration problems?

With kento registration it is too easy to make adjustments by
snicking off a little more timber. By trimming the kento you are
increasing the blank space between the edge of the print and the
printed area, moving the impression away from the kento. It is
simple enough, but because the blocks are a mirror to the print it is
easy to become confused.

If you are trying to correct a registration problem you need to look
at your print and understand which corner the kento cuts works from.
Then ask yourself if the problem can be fixed by moving the
impression AWAY from the kento corner. If you are sure that this will
work then you can enlarge the kento cuts as required. But, it may be
the case that you need to move an impression TOWARDS the kento, in
this case you have a kento that needs rebuilding. You can try using a
good thick plastic tape to hang over the edge of the kento cut and if
the kento is only a fraction out, the tape will often be enough to
carry on printing. If your problems are more drastic then it is best
to gouge out the timber and rebuild with epoxy filler. Kento work
really needs a nice flat chisel.

Perhaps a pneumonic might help:

CRACK - Cut / Registration Away from the Corner Kento
BRICK - Build / Registration Into the Corner Kento

Hope this helps,
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Message 3
From: richard stockham
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 18:17:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 33237] Re: Kento Korrection
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I had this problem recently. Here's a way to solve it
that worked for me. When I had an impression that was
misregistered I was 5 blocks into an 8 block suicide
print. I was not thinking clearly so I knew I just had
to "see" the answer.

I took one of the sheets that has yet to be printed to
Kinkos and photocopied it (including the kento
edges)onto clear acetate. Then I laid the transparency
down over the block and lined up it up. Where the
kentos fell was where to put the new kentos.

For new kentos I superglued an L shaped piece of
veneer at the corner and a __ shaped piece on the
side. I saw Dave Bull do something like this at the
Baren Summit in Kansas City, and I have added this to
my bag of little tricks since then.

It's just another way to go at the problem.

Good luck.

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Message 4
From: "Angee Lennard"
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2007 21:26:55 -0500
Subject: [Baren 33238] Re: New Baren Digest (HTML) V39 #3877 (Apr 24, 2007)
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Thanks for all the anti-skinning tips. I do feel like the wax paper
circles never seem to do the trick. They seem to just stick to dried
ink below due to the lack of skimming vs. scooping that seems to happy
no matter what. So who's tips do I use? Maybe a combination of
each... For the ink in metals, the ink in plastic, the ink already
purchased in tubes...... Thanks everyone!

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Message 5
From: Blog Manager
Date: 25 Apr 2007 03:55:12 -0000
Subject: [Baren 33239] Baren Member blogs: Update Notification
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This is an automatic update message being sent to [Baren] by the forum blog software.

The following new entries were found on the listed printmaker's websites during the past 24 hours. (32 sites checked, five minutes before midnight Eastern time)


Site Name: Belinda Del Pesco Fine Art Blog

Author: Belinda Del Pesco
Item: Monotype & Watercolor: Mom's Bicycle


Site Name: Blue Notes - A Printmaking Sojourn

Author: Jenn
Item: Lanthanum Prints and Variations


Site Name: Bea Gold Retrospective

Author: Bea Gold's Blog
Item: April 13th, the day before my Birthday Party...


[Baren] members: if you have a printmaking blog (or a website with a published ATOM feed), and wish it to be included in this daily checklist, please write to the Baren Blog Manager at:

For reference, sites/blogs currently being checked are: