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Message 1
From: "carolwagner"
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 07:36:25 -0800
Subject: [Baren 27603] Oops!
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Barbara,

Don't know why I thought it was this year! (Summit, that is).I also
can't recall whether it is you or Wanda who has the Baren Brochures? In
any event I could sure use some to give to enquirers who are drooling
over my three year Baren exchange exhibit, which will be on display for
the entire month of April.

Maria,

Onward and upward, enlightening as you go, one housewife at a time,
gains a dim awareness of a world without Thomas Kincaid...(Oops, don't
throw that rock!)...seriously, you go girl!

Faithfully,
Carol in Sacramento

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Message 2
From: Sharri LaPierre
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 10:13:42 -0800
Subject: [Baren 27604] Re: wood intaglio experiment
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Hey, watch that knocking lala land! It is great out here - more should
join me. Sorry about the confusion on the Arches Cover - you can soak
it to your hearts content. I still prefer Somerset Satin, but maybe
things are more different than I realized here in la la land :-)

Tra la la la!
Sharri

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Message 3
From: "Bea Gold"
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 11:46:55 -0800
Subject: [Baren 27605] Re: wood intaglio experiment
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Hey Sharri - you're not in LaLa Land - only LA Bareners can claim that! Bea

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Message 4
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 15:21:30 -0600
Subject: [Baren 27606] Exchange #25 sign-up begins Fri April 1
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PLEASE NOTE: Tomorrow is the last day you may withdraw without penalty from
Exchange #24 -- if you won't be able to get your prints in by May 1, NOW is
the time to withdraw -- don't wait until the 11th hour, please!!!!

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Message 5
From: "Dan Dew"
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 17:37:46 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27607] Couple newbie questions
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Not having large amounts of time to print all the colors at once, what is
the recommended method of storing prints in between colors?

How do you keep the colors from bleeding onto the other prints?

Is hosho a good paper for a beginner?

Enough for now

ddew

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Message 6
From: Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 17:05:23 -0600
Subject: [Baren 27608] Re: Couple newbie questions
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Dan asks...

Not having large amounts of time to print all the colors at once, what is
the recommended method of storing prints in between colors?
I put my paper stack in the refrigerator in between printing sessions...I
think the cold keeps the paper moist...sometimes as long as a week...never
had any mold problems...but Dan...if the paper dries on you...you can
rewet (ughmmm.. re-moist) the paper damage or running of the printed
colors..

How do you keep the colors from bleeding onto the other prints?
Colors should not bleed...if they do..you probably have your paper too
wet...should be moist..cold to the touch against your face...one thing I
do when I print large color areas is to alternate the print orientation in
the done stack so that the large color areas don't rest on top of each
other...if the printed area happens to be in the center of the print..then
I sometimes may insert a sheet of waste paper while I am printing the next
sheet...by the time the next print is added to the done stack I just reuse
the waste sheet...

Is hosho a good paper for a beginner?
Japanese hosho is the best paper to use for this type of printing...there
are many options & grades available from different sources....the
Yamaguchi and the Ichibei Iwano papers sold by the Baren Mall are the best
choice.

good luck........Julio

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Message 7
From: Julio.Rodriguez # walgreens.com
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 17:27:03 -0600
Subject: [Baren 27609] Re: Couple newbie questions - oops
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oops.sorry..that's:

you can rewet (ughmmm.. re-moist) the paper WITHOUT damage or running of
the printed colors..

I am uploading a new bunch of Roosters to the New Year Card website
tonight, so stay tuned for updates...

Carol, congratulations and thanks on your Baren window exhibit....please
send some photos so we can update the
website...

thanks...Julio

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Message 8
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 18:13:43 -0600
Subject: [Baren 27610] Re: Couple newbie questions
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Dan Dew wrote:
>Not having large amounts of time to print all the colors at once, what is
>the recommended method of storing prints in between colors?
>How do you keep the colors from bleeding onto the other prints?
>Is hosho a good paper for a beginner?

Hosho from your local art supply store isn't a very good choice as it's
poorly sized if at all, and not too strong -- mulberry paper is better, but
it's VERY thin and hard to handle if you're not practiced... I hesitate to
suggest this because it's expensive, but the Yamaguchi paper on Baren Mall
is pretty ideal! You can get good results on relatively inexpensive and
VERY easy to handle 90lb. hot-press watercolor paper (Arches)...

I lay my papers-to-be-printed face down in a stack and oriented exactly as
I will want them on the block so I don't have to turn over, rotate, etc at
printing time. I have the papers in a "damp stack" so they are on
newsprint or damp blotter (same mild dampness as the paper) with more
newsprint or blotter above and clear plastic sheet or bag below and above
to keep it all from evaporating-- so a sandwich with the plastic on the
outside, then damp newsprint, then paper in center... four to eight sheets
of newsprint top and bottom is fine. As the edges dry out, spritz or brush
some more water on them to keep everything 'just right'... As I print, I
lay the just-printed-prints face UP in a stack, either in the same
damp-stack as the to-be-printed sheets, or in a separate stack depending on
the size of the prints...

The colors won't bleed unless you lay the pigment on the block WAY too
thick and wet -- be patient, take your time, if you want it darker, print
it lightly again... Let the moisture in the areas just printed have time
to migrate to drier unprinted areas before re-printing -- lay your prints
down after printing with that in mind -- rotate, shift, etc as necessary to
equalize moisture throughout...

If you have to stop for a few days (or years), dry the prints thoroughly
and rewet them the night before you resume printing. Some people
refrigerate which will extend the 'shelf life' of the damp paper a few
days, but drying is much preferred for extended periods...

This stuff is a LOT easier if you can watch someone else do it and then try
it yourself with experienced assistance -- enroll in a workshop! I have
one coming up April 11-15 in Norwalk, CT
http://www.contemprints.org/Workshops_Woodcut.cfm (toot! toot! can you
hear me tooting my own horn here, or WHAT?) -- or contact April Vollmer --
mailto:web@aprilvollmer.com -- she seems to lead workshops like every other
month, it seems! :)

-- Mike


Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
http://mlyon.com

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Message 9
From: cucamongie # aol.com
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 19:15:49 -0500
Subject: [Baren 27611] woodcut intaglio
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varnishing the block could possibly be a good idea, though I've never done this - any of you folks out there know a good brand of varnish?
Sarah

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Message 10
From: "cjpiers"
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 18:16:50 -0800
Subject: [Baren 27612] Re: wood intaglio experiment
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Thanks everyone for the advice and moral support.

I did use spray acrylic before and then another light coat after cutting(?) the image to help with wiping and to deter water absorption.
I used a paper from McClains called Ise for the test prints. I did dampen it first, but only very quickly. Not a soak or anything. I also did this first experiment using shina plywood. (using up leftover wood and paper for experiments is wonderful because I can't throw it out, right?! Any way I am excited and encouraged to see what will happens when I use harder wood and better paper.

Does easy wipe do the same thing as the Setswell from Graphic Chemical? Where can I get it?

Connie

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Message 11
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 18:31:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 27613] Re: woodcut intaglio
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Use 1/2 spar or marine varnish and 1/2 thinner, apply in a well ventilated area (outside or in the garage with the door open) with a soft cloth. Allow to dry, lightly sand with wet dry sand paper and water and a sanding block. You can coat it again after carving and before printing to make the lines stronger.....I alternate between doing this and doing nothing....go figure.
Best to all,
Barbara

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Message 12
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 18:44:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 27614] Re: wood intaglio experiment
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Connie,
They are not the same...easy wipe will make ink softer (looser) and easier to wipe but will also make it easier to pull out of the lines when you are trying to wipe the plate, I would stay away from it. Sets well makes the ink softer in a different way, sort of like adding oil to the ink and is used to adhear one large flat layer to another without getting shiny when doing multiple layers of opaque ink...don't use this either for your process.

I would get some armour-all, the stuff for white wall tires. Spray it on a cloth, lay the thin smooth cloth over a block and rub the top of your carved block with this stuff...I think it might help the top of the carved block wipe clean better. It is sort of like using silicone on the wood. You want stiff oil based ink to stay in the lines and you want a shiny smooth surface to wipe from...the varnish is a good idea but try to keep it only on the surface.
I think the answer is the better softer damp paper. Let us know how you do, we are anxious to see your experiments.
Best to all,
Barbara

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Message 13
From: "MPereira"
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 16:04:13 -0300
Subject: [Baren 27615] Re: Exchange #25 sign-up begins Fri April 1
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Hi. I stay with Darrell and The nude.
M.

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