Today's postings

  1. [Baren 26052] Re: new print ("amanda yopp")
  2. [Baren 26053] Re: new print (Shireen Holman)
  3. [Baren 26054] Re: Baren Digest (old) V28 #2792 (Mike Lyon)
  4. [Baren 26055] Re: new print (Barbara Mason)
  5. [Baren 26056] Re: new print (Sharri LaPierre)
  6. [Baren 26057] Re: new print (Shireen Holman)
  7. [Baren 26058] Re: new print (Darrell Madis)
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Message 1
From: "amanda yopp"
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 09:16:32 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26052] Re: new print
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Wow, [Shireen]! what a beautiful print! Thank you for letting us see your process.
Such precision!
Thank you!
-Amanda Yopp
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Message 2
From: Shireen Holman
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 10:33:13 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26053] Re: new print
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I'll try to post a close up of the final. The problem is that the file gets
so big that it takes a long time to load. I'll see what I can figure out.
You might just have to come and visit me to see it!
I make an original pencil drawing, then I trace that onto tracing paper. I
then turn the tracing paper over so that I get the mirror image, and, using
saral transfer paper, I draw over it with an etching needle to transfer the
drawing onto the blocks. I use the same tracing paper for each block, so
that they are completely registered. The colour I figure out entirely in my
head - the drawing is just a line drawing. But I do start out with
photographs - I take several and then sort of use bits of each as models to
make my original drawing, and I use the photos to think through light and
dark relationships.
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Message 3
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 09:39:58 -0500
Subject: [Baren 26054] Re: Baren Digest (old) V28 #2792
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Megan Kay wrote:
>I would like to print a flat gold relief print- the image being completely
>gold. I am sorta clear on how to do this based on his instructions, but I
>would like to hear what others have to say and any problems they may have
>encountered printing this way or solutions or things to watch out
>for...Also, for the same project (there is three parts) I will be using
>the mica powder. I haven't decided whether to print it as a flat field for
>the image or to mix it in to the ink.

Metallic and mica powders -- here's what worked for me:

Fast and produces 'pretty good' results with metallics and good results
with mica:
Print a layer of glue (warm and thin hide glue -- it's stronger than
rice-paste which also works, but glue is better, especially for metal
powders) using light pressure of baren so glue stays on surface and doesn't
get pushed into the paper too much. If the paper is reasonably dry, the
slightly more pigment/mica/metal than you need can be applied directly to
the gluey areas and brushed all over with a VERY soft brush, then the
excess poured off (turn the sheet on its side and tap a few times) for
straining and re-use, then a slightly stiffer brush can be used to remove
powder from non-gluey areas. If the paper is too damp when you do this, a
dusting of powder will adhere in non-glue-printed areas, too which is
usually not very pleasing. A way to reduce this 'halo' is to apply the
powder through a stencil so it only goes where the glue is printed. Paper
must still be fairly dry to prevent the powder from sticking where you
don't want it. This is a one-pass method as over-printing tends to make a

Best results: print glue layer as above, then brush additional glue onto
block and apply powder to block, brushing it out lightly, then print sheet
and powder will adhere VERY well to paper -- this produces an effect which
closely resembles leafing. But it takes twice as long and is somewhat
messier as the powder builds up on the block and in the brushes and those
must be cleaned every so many prints. Can be over-printed to improve coverage.

Mica: Mica application is usually not very interesting or pronounced when
applied over light areas, but is VERY effective when printed over dark
areas -- mica over dead black produces a sparkly mid-gray. Mica over beige
is very subtle and barely noticeable.

David Bull's instructions are excellent and complete -- if you follow them
you will get results.

You already have your materials -- its EASY to experiment -- and you
definitely should spend an hour or two experimenting with different methods
and amounts and over different colors before you finalize the plan for your

Looking forward to seeing your finished prints, Megan!

-- Mike

Mike Lyon
Kansas City, Missouri
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Message 4
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 08:40:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 26055] Re: new print
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I have tried this, but seems my carving and my drawing do not match...just too much creativity in the carving and it rarely meets the drawing. Rats, if I were more precise, I could do this too.....Ha.
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Message 5
From: Sharri LaPierre
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 09:40:28 -0700
Subject: [Baren 26056] Re: new print
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I had the same problem with the slide show that Barbara did. But, only
with the #20. # 19 worked as always. I don't know what this tells
you, but something, I hope! (If only that Java is enabled on my
browser -)

Thanks for all your work and dedication and Congratulations on the
Japan visit. Have fun!

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Message 6
From: Shireen Holman
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 15:22:38 -0400
Subject: [Baren 26057] Re: new print
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Okay Barbara, this is for you.
I've posted a picture of the drawing that I traced onto my blocks, and a
detail and larger version of the final print:
Hope you can see this better.

Shireen Holman, Printmaker and Book Artist
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Message 7
From: Darrell Madis
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 13:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Baren 26058] Re: new print
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Both slide shows worked for me. Mike, thanks for all the work on this. Great to see the prints up. I've always found the Exchange galleries an inspiration.