Today's postings
- [Baren 24280] exchange #20 (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 24281] RE: exchange #20 ("Daniel Dew")
- [Baren 24282] Puzzle Print ("Gayle Wohlken")
- [Baren 24283] Re: Weather remarks & question (Jsf73 # aol.com)
- [Baren 24284] Re: Weather remarks & question ("marilynn smih")
- [Baren 24285] puzzle pictures/ink additive ideas/haiku (Bette Norcross Wappner)
- [Baren 24286] Re: Weather remarks & question (L Cass)
- [Baren 24287] ink (Barbara Mason)
- [Baren 24288] Re: Puzzle Print (JEANNE CHASE)
- [Baren 24289] Re: exchange #20 (JEANNE CHASE)
- [Baren 24290] Thank you Dave!!! ("Eva Pietzcker")
- [Baren 24291] Re: Weather remarks & question (FurryPressII # aol.com)
- [Baren 24292] Re: ink (Woodblocksteve # aol.com)
- [Baren 24293] Thomas Nason (jimandkatemundie # juno.com)
Message 1
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:14:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 24280] exchange #20
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Aimee,
It is 40 degrees and raining in Oregon too....
glad you are in the exchange, it is such fun to do them.
Best to all,
Barbara
>Hope everyone is keeping warm. It's 40 degrees and
>raining in southeast Alaska.....Best regards---aimee
It is 40 degrees and raining in Oregon too....
glad you are in the exchange, it is such fun to do them.
Best to all,
Barbara
>Hope everyone is keeping warm. It's 40 degrees and
>raining in southeast Alaska.....Best regards---aimee
Message 2
From: "Daniel Dew"
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:28:50 -0500
Subject: [Baren 24281] RE: exchange #20
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Weather is terrible here in Florida also, high 70's today. Too much
sunshine as well.
Oh well..:-)
Daniel L. Dew
Ervin Leasing Company
Suncoast Division
sunshine as well.
Oh well..:-)
Daniel L. Dew
Ervin Leasing Company
Suncoast Division
Message 3
From: "Gayle Wohlken"
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:51:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Baren 24282] Puzzle Print
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Oh my gosh, Maria and Barbara! What a job you did printing! The photos
show two women working with such organization, I am slack-jawed impressed
and amazed. I have shown everyone here at my son's house in Scranton, and
the Oooh and ahhhhs are in abundance. The prints, themselves, have turned
out well and I think everyone was at their best working with their
allotted piece, and now I look forward to when we get to do this again.
~Gayle of Ohio but now in Scranton til March 1
show two women working with such organization, I am slack-jawed impressed
and amazed. I have shown everyone here at my son's house in Scranton, and
the Oooh and ahhhhs are in abundance. The prints, themselves, have turned
out well and I think everyone was at their best working with their
allotted piece, and now I look forward to when we get to do this again.
~Gayle of Ohio but now in Scranton til March 1
Message 4
From: Jsf73 # aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 11:17:27 EST
Subject: [Baren 24283] Re: Weather remarks & question
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Hmm after being minus 20 degrees (celsius) or colder for two months straight,
and finally getting to near freezing and actually seeing some snow really
melting after all this time such posts as Aimee's and Barb's are cruel and
heartless...
But what really takes the cake, is Mr Dan Dew's post about the bad florida
weather.... Huh, for punishment he has to put up with houseguests from any place
that has seen sub freezing temperatures for more than three months....
Of course I have first dibs on visiting him.... I am available any time next
month!
Now regarding printing... I am going to order more ink, and want to get
opinions. I am confused by people who say they use Litho ink to print, others find
real relief ink. I am using Graphic chemicals perfection palette etching ink
which they claim is also good for relief.
Should I be using plate oil and mixing it with the ink? Or would litho ink be
better, and if I use litho ink what should I be adding to it, and more
importantly why should I be adding something to it?
Since I already have the GC ething/relief ink I could order some litho ink
and run comparisons between the two to see what works best for me, if I have
some reference point to start from.
John Furr
and finally getting to near freezing and actually seeing some snow really
melting after all this time such posts as Aimee's and Barb's are cruel and
heartless...
But what really takes the cake, is Mr Dan Dew's post about the bad florida
weather.... Huh, for punishment he has to put up with houseguests from any place
that has seen sub freezing temperatures for more than three months....
Of course I have first dibs on visiting him.... I am available any time next
month!
Now regarding printing... I am going to order more ink, and want to get
opinions. I am confused by people who say they use Litho ink to print, others find
real relief ink. I am using Graphic chemicals perfection palette etching ink
which they claim is also good for relief.
Should I be using plate oil and mixing it with the ink? Or would litho ink be
better, and if I use litho ink what should I be adding to it, and more
importantly why should I be adding something to it?
Since I already have the GC ething/relief ink I could order some litho ink
and run comparisons between the two to see what works best for me, if I have
some reference point to start from.
John Furr
Message 5
From: "marilynn smih"
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:34:27 -0800
Subject: [Baren 24284] Re: Weather remarks & question
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Well John to confuse you further I use Dan smith releif ink and love it. If
i use anything in it it is miracle gel to thin it, if it is too stiff. Hey
you could come and sleep on my hide a bed in Baja, it will be 80 today, was
78 yesterday and sunny. Guess you are stuck out there on that darn east
coast tho. But to wet your appetite my balcony over looks the sea of Cortez.
Marilynn
i use anything in it it is miracle gel to thin it, if it is too stiff. Hey
you could come and sleep on my hide a bed in Baja, it will be 80 today, was
78 yesterday and sunny. Guess you are stuck out there on that darn east
coast tho. But to wet your appetite my balcony over looks the sea of Cortez.
Marilynn
Message 6
From: Bette Norcross Wappner
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 12:04:48 -0500
Subject: [Baren 24285] puzzle pictures/ink additive ideas/haiku
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Maria Arango wrote:
> A grueling day, just me and Dreamweaver...
> The Pesky and Persistent Puzzle Project is finally complete!
> Okay, almost...
>
> Here are the updates:
> http://www.1000woodcuts.com/puzzle/project.html
> There are some HUGE enlargements in the Final Image page.
>
Maria and Barbara - I see that i missed the photos of your printing
session. I just finished looking at them and I must say that you two
are so talented. I love the drying racks idea, Maria! Could a hanga
girl use something like that? Your printing studio looks so bright and
fun. My studio and dining room should officially switch places. But
then I don't think our guests would like carrying their plates down to
the unfinished basement. Actually, my husband already complains that he
can't see the dining table for all the woodblocks, printing paper, and
decks of cards!
I see there was a little wine consumption there Barbara and Maria!
BTW... has anyone used red wine in their printing watercolor? As a
calligrapher, I've used red wine as an ink - quite fun and beneficial.
Mike Lyon has tried graphite in his waterbased ink and had great results
(beautiful piece Mike!) - so the sky is the limit, huh? what about
scented inks? you could put a drop of essential oil in the ink. but
then that wouldn't be a very good idea for an exchange because you'd
stink up the other prints. but as invitations or single usage, the
scented idea would be fun.
Any other crazy ideas or experiences?
Dan Dew, send me some of your warm and 'wonderful' weather. Here in KY
we have a little warmer weather today, but I must admit that I'm ready
for Spring and Summer.
haiku for the day...
restless winter
the first fly buzzes
on the window
Bette.
Message 7
From: L Cass
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 12:31:33 -0500
Subject: [Baren 24286] Re: Weather remarks & question
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John Furr -
I'm stuck here in the far North as well - doesn't Baja sound enticing?!
Re your inks - if you're doing woodcuts I'm curious to know why you're not
using Graphic Chemical's water based inks(heavily pigmented and easier to
clean up than oil based) I thin them with their 'water soluble vehicule'
and when the prints are dry I can even hand colour with no bleeding of the
ink - however I assume you're either engraving
or doing intaglio work? If you're using wood -what interesting types are
you finding here in TO?
Louise Cass
www.LCassArt.com
Message 8
From: Barbara Mason
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:34:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 24287] ink
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John,
Ink is a pretty personal matter and it all works, you just need to get real good control of what you are using. Practice and practice, addint different stuff till it works well for you.
Difference between ink:
Relief ink: has stuff in it to make it roll out and print a smooth large surface well, the Dan Smith relief ink printed very much like litho ink with additives. Prints well on dry paper, the binder is linseed oil that has been cooked quite a bit, more than etching ink.Medium long ink, the ink sort of strings from the kinfe when you lift if from the slab.
Etching ink: Short ink, that is it breaks when you lift the knife from the slab. The binder is linseed oil that has been cooked a fair amout. This should work well for relief if you add a bit of oil to it...or a bit of miracle jel or easy wipe or sets well. Setswell is designed to make large flat areas print over one another without shiny spots. Etching ink wipes off a plate fairly easily, it is not sticky. Prints faily well on dry paper, prints better on damp paper.
Litho ink: long ink, really strings out when you lift if from the slab with a knife...the binder is linseed oil that has been cooked so long it is varnish. It is very sticky ink and cannot be wiped off etching plates, it just won't work for etching. Litho ink is traditionally highly pigmented, I use it mixed with transparent base and setswell for relief printing as I like transparent ink. Lots of color, but layers that show the underneath color through, that is two colors make three and so on. Prints well on dry paper, prints better on damp paper.
So the answer is, usually you make whatever you have work, just keep fooling around with it and adding stuff till it works well. I love litho ink, but I have used it all and certainly would not dump one kind for another till I used up the can! They make a converting medium for etching ink that makes it sort of like litho ink.
Dean from Graphic Chemical might have more specific stuff to say. I have been using Handschy and Graphic Chemical ink for a long time, (20 years) the pigment content is really good. Dan Smith litho ink has less pigment in it, I don't care what they say, I know this for sure. Adding transparent base to ink it is real obvious. But a lot of people like Dan Smith ink so again it is personal.
I like the new Akua Kolor ink, but there is a real learning curve with it, just like any new material. It has trememdous promise and know soon most schools will use it as it does not skim over and cleans up with water. The Graphic Chemical water based ink works, but I need ink that will not dry on the slab...for hours and hours. So I don't use it often. Graphic Chemical makes a product called water soluble vehicle that will keep waterbased ink wet longer...it works very, very well with no ill effects to the ink or paper that I have noticed. Speedball drys almost before you can roll it out, I am always impressed that Dan can use it so well, it must be the humidity in Florida that gives him such good results. I use it with school kids and it drys so darn fast...it makes me crazy.
I am out of time...we could talk all day about this stuff.
Hanga is easier, just pigment and water with a little rice paste.
Best to all,
Barbara
Now regarding printing... I am going to order more ink, and want to get opinions. I am confused by people who say they use Litho ink to print, others find real relief ink. I am using Graphic chemicals perfection palette etching ink which they claim is also good for relief.
Should I be using plate oil and mixing it with the ink? Or would litho ink be better, and if I use litho ink what should I be adding to it, and more importantly why should I be adding something to it?
Since I already have the GC ething/relief ink I could order some litho ink and run comparisons between the two to see what works best for me, if I have some reference point to start from.
John Furr
Ink is a pretty personal matter and it all works, you just need to get real good control of what you are using. Practice and practice, addint different stuff till it works well for you.
Difference between ink:
Relief ink: has stuff in it to make it roll out and print a smooth large surface well, the Dan Smith relief ink printed very much like litho ink with additives. Prints well on dry paper, the binder is linseed oil that has been cooked quite a bit, more than etching ink.Medium long ink, the ink sort of strings from the kinfe when you lift if from the slab.
Etching ink: Short ink, that is it breaks when you lift the knife from the slab. The binder is linseed oil that has been cooked a fair amout. This should work well for relief if you add a bit of oil to it...or a bit of miracle jel or easy wipe or sets well. Setswell is designed to make large flat areas print over one another without shiny spots. Etching ink wipes off a plate fairly easily, it is not sticky. Prints faily well on dry paper, prints better on damp paper.
Litho ink: long ink, really strings out when you lift if from the slab with a knife...the binder is linseed oil that has been cooked so long it is varnish. It is very sticky ink and cannot be wiped off etching plates, it just won't work for etching. Litho ink is traditionally highly pigmented, I use it mixed with transparent base and setswell for relief printing as I like transparent ink. Lots of color, but layers that show the underneath color through, that is two colors make three and so on. Prints well on dry paper, prints better on damp paper.
So the answer is, usually you make whatever you have work, just keep fooling around with it and adding stuff till it works well. I love litho ink, but I have used it all and certainly would not dump one kind for another till I used up the can! They make a converting medium for etching ink that makes it sort of like litho ink.
Dean from Graphic Chemical might have more specific stuff to say. I have been using Handschy and Graphic Chemical ink for a long time, (20 years) the pigment content is really good. Dan Smith litho ink has less pigment in it, I don't care what they say, I know this for sure. Adding transparent base to ink it is real obvious. But a lot of people like Dan Smith ink so again it is personal.
I like the new Akua Kolor ink, but there is a real learning curve with it, just like any new material. It has trememdous promise and know soon most schools will use it as it does not skim over and cleans up with water. The Graphic Chemical water based ink works, but I need ink that will not dry on the slab...for hours and hours. So I don't use it often. Graphic Chemical makes a product called water soluble vehicle that will keep waterbased ink wet longer...it works very, very well with no ill effects to the ink or paper that I have noticed. Speedball drys almost before you can roll it out, I am always impressed that Dan can use it so well, it must be the humidity in Florida that gives him such good results. I use it with school kids and it drys so darn fast...it makes me crazy.
I am out of time...we could talk all day about this stuff.
Hanga is easier, just pigment and water with a little rice paste.
Best to all,
Barbara
Now regarding printing... I am going to order more ink, and want to get opinions. I am confused by people who say they use Litho ink to print, others find real relief ink. I am using Graphic chemicals perfection palette etching ink which they claim is also good for relief.
Should I be using plate oil and mixing it with the ink? Or would litho ink be better, and if I use litho ink what should I be adding to it, and more importantly why should I be adding something to it?
Since I already have the GC ething/relief ink I could order some litho ink and run comparisons between the two to see what works best for me, if I have some reference point to start from.
John Furr
Message 9
From: JEANNE CHASE
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:28:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 24288] Re: Puzzle Print
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Maria and Barbara
Congratulations on your fantastic "Puzzle Piece"!! It is really awesome. You girls really out did yourselfs, but looks like you were also having a ton of fun.
Another one???? Count me in.
Jeanne N.
Congratulations on your fantastic "Puzzle Piece"!! It is really awesome. You girls really out did yourselfs, but looks like you were also having a ton of fun.
Another one???? Count me in.
Jeanne N.
Message 10
From: JEANNE CHASE
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:32:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 24289] Re: exchange #20
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Weather report
Dan was wrong, it is not 70 here in Florida today, but a chilly 69, oh but I forgot , Dan lives one hour from me so the temp. changes.
Can hardly wait until it warms up here!!!! Brrrrr!!!
Have been a lurker lately due to 2 shows coming up.
One will be Drawings and Prints and am busy getting 60 matted and framed.
After the shows then I will be sane again and ready to commit to another exchange!!
Happy Printing to All
Jeanne N.
Dan was wrong, it is not 70 here in Florida today, but a chilly 69, oh but I forgot , Dan lives one hour from me so the temp. changes.
Can hardly wait until it warms up here!!!! Brrrrr!!!
Have been a lurker lately due to 2 shows coming up.
One will be Drawings and Prints and am busy getting 60 matted and framed.
After the shows then I will be sane again and ready to commit to another exchange!!
Happy Printing to All
Jeanne N.
Message 11
From: "Eva Pietzcker"
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 21:21:16 +0100
Subject: [Baren 24290] Thank you Dave!!!
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Dear Dave,
thank you so much. All this is so interesting to me. I guessed the block was to dry - it took me quite a long time to realize, HOW important it is to keep it really humid. But I never would have guessed that the alum might be too much...
Greetings from Eva
thank you so much. All this is so interesting to me. I guessed the block was to dry - it took me quite a long time to realize, HOW important it is to keep it really humid. But I never would have guessed that the alum might be too much...
Greetings from Eva
Message 12
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 16:20:02 EST
Subject: [Baren 24291] Re: Weather remarks & question
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john furr you can mix the two inks together litho and g.c. relief ink
the wood engraving needs a stiffer ink in any case they mix together
as does a letter press ink called rubber based ink.
john center
the wood engraving needs a stiffer ink in any case they mix together
as does a letter press ink called rubber based ink.
john center
Message 13
From: Woodblocksteve # aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 16:39:18 EST
Subject: [Baren 24292] Re: ink
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Hi Barbara,
Your summary of the different printing inks is very excellent and so useful
to beginners like me.
Many thanks
Cheers
Steve
Your summary of the different printing inks is very excellent and so useful
to beginners like me.
Many thanks
Cheers
Steve
Message 14
From: jimandkatemundie # juno.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 21:45:18 GMT
Subject: [Baren 24293] Thomas Nason
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We had a fun little surprise arrive in the post this afternoon. My wife ordered an antique book on painting techniques through ABEbooks, which arrived today from the seller in Arizona. Kate was flipping through her book (all of $9 with shipping) and discovered between the pages a beautiful little wood engraving of cypress trees against a stormy sky.
The print was signed in pencil (1941), and after some pecking around on the Web, I discovered that this print was done by Thomas Willoughby Nason, the so-called "engraver-poet of New England". Apparently, Nason was well-known as an engraver and illustrator in the 1930's and '40's, and he even turns up as the subject of a chapter in one of the books Dave has uploaded to the [Baren] Encyclopedia.
I'd never heard of the fellow before, but I'm happy to add this charming print to my collection.
Wheee!
________________________________________
James G. Mundie
Philadelphia PA, U.S.A.
http://www.missioncreep.com/mundie/images/