Today's postings

  1. [Baren 23829] RE: still covered in ink ("Maria Arango")
  2. [Baren 23830] Re: still covered in ink (GraphChem # aol.com)
  3. [Baren 23831] Re: still covered in ink (eli griggs)
  4. [Baren 23832] Re: shunga exchange #19 (Janet Hollander)
  5. [Baren 23833] Re: still covered in ink (Emma Jane Hogbin)
  6. [Baren 23834] Re: shunga exchange #19 (FurryPressII # aol.com)
  7. [Baren 23835] Re: still covered in ink (FurryPressII # aol.com)
  8. [Baren 23836] Re: still covered in ink ("Maria Arango")
  9. [Baren 23837] Re: still covered in ink (b.patera # att.net)
  10. [Baren 23838] No Subject ... (Mary Brooks-Mueller)
  11. [Baren 23839] Re: still covered in ink (Myron Turner)
  12. [Baren 23840] Re: Question ("Robert Canaga")
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Message 1
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 07:45:42 -0800
Subject: [Baren 23829] RE: still covered in ink
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Emma Jane Hogbin wrote:

> I'll say one thing--printer's ink is MUCH harder to get off
> your hands,
> arms, finger nails (etc). However, it does yield MUCH, MUCH better
> results when printing wood engravings.
>

http://www.1000woodcuts.com/Studionotes/cleanup/spiffy.html

Keep at it! ;-)

Maria
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Message 2
From: GraphChem # aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:15:18 EST
Subject: [Baren 23830] Re: still covered in ink
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Try using a barrier cream, such as "invisible glove," and wash up with
"Masters Bar Soap." They work well together. Also, if you can find it (and have an
old-fashioned tap) there was a neat product that fitted onto the faucet. It
was great for cleaning finger nails...just doesn't fit on the newer, fancier
faucets.
Susan Clark
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Message 3
From: eli griggs
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 08:39:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 23831] Re: still covered in ink
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Hi there:

In addition to barrier cream you can also try using
surgical brushes from Lee Valley, leevalley.com.

These are billed as "The World's Kindest Nail Brush"
and are $5us for 12.

They work very well.

Cheers,
Eli
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Message 4
From: Janet Hollander
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 12:26:28 -0500
Subject: [Baren 23832] Re: shunga exchange #19
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John Center wrote:

>Just a rminder the date for droping out has passed and the due date is
>approching.

Hi John. What was decided re signing the edition?

Janet
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Message 5
From: Emma Jane Hogbin
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:51:47 -0500
Subject: [Baren 23833] Re: still covered in ink
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Maria Arango wrote:
> http://www.1000woodcuts.com/Studionotes/cleanup/spiffy.html

BAH! It must be trick photography. Either that or you're a God of sorts.
:)

emma

--
Emma Jane Hogbin
[[ 416 417 2868 ][ www.xtrinsic.com ]]
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Message 6
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:02:52 EST
Subject: [Baren 23834] Re: shunga exchange #19
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I intend to sign mine in the normal fashion. For those who are a bit
squeamish please make sure i know who the real artist is so there is no problems in
distributing the prints such as put your name on inside wrapper etc.

john

p.s. at least in this case my wifes calling my wood chips "fornicating
wood chips" is correct.
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Message 7
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 13:16:28 EST
Subject: [Baren 23835] Re: still covered in ink
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Emma Jane Hogbinwrites:

> http://www.1000woodcuts.com/Studionotes/cleanup/spiffy.html

One important thing for biginners and others DO NOT LEAVE OILY RAGS IN
SIDE YOU STUDIO OR APTMENT GET THE OUT INTO THE OUTSIDE TRASH AS SOON AS
POSSIBLE SOLVIENT COVERED RAGS HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO BE VERY COMBUSTABLE SOME
TIMES EVEN WITHOUT A SPARK ETC.

John center
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Message 8
From: "Maria Arango"
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:09:49 -0800
Subject: [Baren 23836] Re: still covered in ink
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However baby-oil-oily rags and windex rags are not in much danger,
please...
A great trick for keeping other dirty oily rags is a standard plastic
bucket half full of water. Keep outside and toss your linseed oily rags
and solvent rags and other nasty rags into the bucket and keep lid
tightly sealed. When the bucket is full call your friendly disposal
company and tell'em what you got. They will usually snicker and either
come get it or tell you to leave it out with trash clearly marked or
tell you the date of the next "free" citizen hazardous material dump
day.

Happy--safe--cleanup!
Maria
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Message 9
From: b.patera # att.net
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 22:30:57 +0000
Subject: [Baren 23837] Re: still covered in ink
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Have found that the best way to remove oil base anything from my
hands...paint/ink .... is to use vegetable oil. Pour some on your hands work
it around like soap, wipe hands with paper towels, then wash with dish soap.
It's not only cheap but non toxic.

Regards,

Barbara Patera
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Message 10
From: Mary Brooks-Mueller
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 15:14:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 23838] No Subject
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I was attempting to submit an image to the gallery and
the ftp://barenforum.org/incoming is broken, or at
least unreachable. Or I don't know what I'm doing most
likely.

A question, if I have an image that is larger than
400px how do I make it smaller?
thanks!
Mary


__________________________________
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Message 11
From: Myron Turner
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 20:36:44 -0600
Subject: [Baren 23839] Re: still covered in ink
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There's a variety of products that work very well, which you can get at a
hardware store like Home Depot and stores that service auto
mechanics. They are used by people who work with grease and oils. One
type is a cream, usually with lanolin, the other is a liquid orange or
lemon-based cleaner. The cream is excellent (by the way) for cleaning
brushes.)

The barrier creams which some have suggested are alright but they soon wear
off as you work. So, it may at first seem like a nuisance--but putting on
rubber or poly gloves while inking the block is a good idea; you soon get
used to it and establish a working routine which becomes part of the
process. Avoid the medical type gloves--the oils and solvents soon break
them down.

As for clean-up, I use paper towels and throw them out. First, scrape the
left-over ink off the inking slab with a single-edged blade scraper tool,
which you can get in a paint store. Wipe the blade off on waxed paper,
which you can later throw away with the towels. Once the slab is
scraped--I clean it with odor-less solvent (which I know many people don't
like to use and which isn't really odorless, only less odor-ful). Wipe the
slab clean with towelling. Then roll out the inky rollers on the slab, with
a bit of solvent--this can be pretty quickly cleaned again with some
solvent and paper towels. (Alas, nobody ever said clean-up was going to
be fun! It just shows how determined we really are.) As for Maria's idea
of putting oily rags outside in water--well that's nice in the balmy places
in the world, but doesn't sound as though it's for Winnipeg, where the
overnight temps are often between 20 and 30 below Celsius.

Myron Turner
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Message 12
From: "Robert Canaga"
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:36:15 -0800
Subject: [Baren 23840] Re: Question
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Please resend your complete info and I will forward it. Also, send a copy to
Nyartsmaga@aol.com
and ask that they publish it.
Thanks
Robert