Today's postings

  1. [Baren 23790] Re: Re-surfacing boxwood or end grain Maple... (FurryPressII # aol.com)
  2. [Baren 23791] New to the forum... ("Andrew Schroeder")
  3. [Baren 23792] Re: New to the forum... (Aqua4tis # aol.com)
  4. [Baren 23793] recommend baren mall paper (Bette Wappner)
  5. [Baren 23794] Re: recommend baren mall paper (Mike Lyon)
  6. [Baren 23795] Re: Re-surfacing boxwood or end grain Maple... (Shasta Jones)
  7. [Baren 23796] Re: Re-surfacing boxwood or end grain Maple... (FurryPressII # aol.com)
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Message 1
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 11:54:48 EST
Subject: [Baren 23790] Re: Re-surfacing boxwood or end grain Maple...
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I use a small router set up so it is set up on top of the block. Route it
till it is even and then sand it smooth. Dremel makes a drill press stand that
works very well and you can use the dremel as the small router.

At Hamilton wood type they use a commercial wood sander to level and smooth
the blocks.

john center
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Message 2
From: "Andrew Schroeder"
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 20:48:56 +0000
Subject: [Baren 23791] New to the forum...
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Hi there, I thought I would take a moment to introduce myself to the forum.
My name is Andrew Schroeder I am a printmaking student and, in particular, a
wood cut artist living and working in Lincoln, Nebraska.

I have been studying the art of the woodcut for the last three years under
the instruction of artist and professor, Karen Kunc. Her techniques and
dedication to the concepts of multi-block, reduction wood cuts is most
remarkable and an inspiration to someone like myself, just beginning. This
summer I attended a workshop in Firenze, Italy taught by Professor Kunc.

This was the turning point in my choice to study art. It affirmed to me, my
desire to fully study the art of wood block printing and the power of the
graphic image that is produced. My images are always an abstract
investigation of both the world surrounding me, as well as struggle.

So, with that short introduction, I look forward eagerly to working on the
currently open print exchange and participating in the forum discussion.

Thank you all,
Andrew Schroeder



***
Andrew Schroeder
andrew_ne_1982@hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
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Message 3
From: Aqua4tis # aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 15:55:20 EST
Subject: [Baren 23792] Re: New to the forum...
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welcome andrew
and i must tell you im very envious not only do you study with karen
kunc whose work i love but you azlso did so im my most favorite place on earth
florence!!
georga
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Message 4
From: Bette Wappner
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:57:28 -0500
Subject: [Baren 23793] recommend baren mall paper
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Hi everyone,

Any recommendations from Baren Mall for sized paper for hanga, a middle road
cost between $3 - $8, for use with a Sosaku baren?

Thanks,
Bette
bettewappner@fuse.net
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Message 5
From: Mike Lyon
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:25:21 -0600
Subject: [Baren 23794] Re: recommend baren mall paper
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At 04:57 PM 1/3/2004 -0500, Bette Wappner wrote:
>Any recommendations from Baren Mall for sized paper for hanga, a middle road
>cost between $3 - $8, for use with a Sosaku baren?


Dear Bette,

I've used several of the Baren Mall papers.

By far and away the best (and the best value) is the Yamaguchi Hosho at
$8.75 per sheet. Each sheet is approximately 16" x 22" with the grain
running parallel to the 16" side). Extremely strong, it stands up very
well to
my typical 16 to 24 over-printings, even with a lot of elbow-grease on the
Baren! http://www.barenforum.org/mall/products/hosho.html

A distant second is #23 "New Hosho" at $8.25 per sheet, but the sheets are
more than twice as large as the Yamaguchi Hosho above (25" x 38"), so it is
substantially less than 1/2 the price. It is a nice looking paper and
feels good -- not nearly as strong nor as 'crisp' as the Yamaguchi Hosho
and not as uniform, either -- it begins to pill up (abrade) after four or
five over-printings. So I use an ategami when printing this paper and that
works pretty well. Sizing is very sloppy around the edges on most sheets,
so the sizing brush strokes will show up in the printed image if you print
within about 4 inches of the edge.
http://www.barenforum.org/mall/products/paper.php

I have not tried #4 "Hakudo" at $10.68 per 25" x 38" sheet, but it sounds
like a very good candidate for moku-hanga to me.
http://www.barenforum.org/mall/products/paper.php It's about 1/2 the price
of the Yamaguchi Hosho.

Most of the other papers at
http://www.barenforum.org/mall/products/paper.php contain significant
amounts of wood-pulp or are too lightweight for me, so I avoid those
because I fear that they will break down over time.

Good luck!

-- Mike


Mike Lyon
http://mlyon.com
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Message 6
From: Shasta Jones
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 16:38:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 23795] Re: Re-surfacing boxwood or end grain Maple...
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Now why didn't I think of that?!?

I have a dremel, all I need is to buy a stand and a
bit.

Any particular router bit type U reccomend?
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Message 7
From: FurryPressII # aol.com
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 19:54:59 EST
Subject: [Baren 23796] Re: Re-surfacing boxwood or end grain Maple...
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they sell router bits for a dremel esp for small blocks it works fine.
And it works very well for taking out large areas of a wood engraving.

the drill press stand they sell will lock the dremil in place so you don't
have to worry about losing control of it. I have used a drill press to do
this but it has a lot more torque and the block can spin out of control if you
are not careful.

john center