Baren Digest Friday, 19 September 2003 Volume 24 : Number 2376 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: b.patera#att.net Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:51:30 +0000 Subject: [Baren 22804] Re: puzzle update! Maria, Thanks for posting all the blocks you've received. Was surprised at how many artists I could pick out and name... just from their blocks. Can hardly wait to see them all printed. This was really a great idea! B.P. ------------------------------ From: Myron Turner Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 09:02:29 -0500 Subject: [Baren 22805] Visit to the Center for Contemporary Printmaking, Norwalk, CT My wife and I visited the Center for Contemporary Printmaking at the end of August. Tony Kirk, the Director, showed us around the facility and brought us over to the separate house where the artist in residence works (and can reside). Paul Furneaux was in residence and we had a delightful visit with him--from whom we learned that Japanese papers improve with age--which may be why some of my 20-25 year old, dwindling stock of Japanese papers print as well as they do. He showed us some of his current work and work in progress--fairly large pieces printed by hand in water-based colors that have lovely, impeccable surfaces. The artist in residence studio is a large, airy and bright space with a good sized press. I didn't haul out my tape measure, but Id guess it 's about 40 x 60 inches. For any of you artists in search of a residence, this studio is a great opportunity. Tony Kirk graciously showed us around even though he was in the midst of re-opening the Center for the new season and of overseeing the hanging of the woodcut show that Mike Lyons has told us about. So, I was really very grateful to him for taking out time to act as host and guide. We were scheduled to fly back to Winnipeg before the opening of the woodcut show and before Mike arrived to do his workshop, but we were fortunate to be able to see the works as they were being hung. Another highlight of my visit was meeting Carol Lyon, who drove over from New York State to meet us. I'd known Carol only through the baren group, but it turned out that we had both graduated from The City College of New York in the same year. We had a nostalgic lunch during which we looked over our class yearbook, which she brought along because I 'd mentioned that I had lost mine. She also brought along her new series of prints based on Israeli stamps, which she had written about to baren earlier this year and which I had admired and asked to see. I've posted a snapshot of us to Show & Tell. Myron ------------------------------ From: Myron Turner Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 09:09:19 -0500 Subject: [Baren 22806] Re: 7 Woodcuts We've been home just a week and I'm just getting back to work. I just posted a photo of us to baren's Show & Tell and just wrote a post telling about the visit to CCP. The photo on baren is cropped, but if you want a copy I can send you one. It was great to meet you. ------------------------------ From: Myron Turner Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 09:10:55 -0500 Subject: [Baren 22807] Re: 7 Woodcuts Sorry--that last one was meant for Carol Lyon! ------------------------------ From: "marilynn smih" Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:00:44 -0700 Subject: [Baren 22808] Re: Baren Digest V24 #2375 I am very new to woodblock, having done quite a few lino cuts. This little block seems to be a bit touchy to ink up. I thinned down the ink and the results are much better. Several things that were mentioned will help. barbara, I have always inked from edge to edge, not from the middle. I will try inking from the middle to avoid too much ink on the edges. The comment that damp paper might give the image softer edges helps too because that may be part of why the edges are not so crisp. I have not used pescia before, it seems close to arches 88 but not so touchy. I have been spritzing, layering between blotters and putting between plastic overnight. The paper is soft and cool to the touch, just damp. I agree there is a vast difference between dampening paper overnight and just soaking for a short time. I was taught to soak paper when I took printmaking. So when I use stonehenge I have been soaking it, perhaps even with that paper over night between blotters and plastic would be better?? I can say experience is a good teacher and you guys are a real help with all your experience. thanks for all the comments, they are helping. Marilynn 3 ------------------------------ From: Emma Jane Hogbin Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:51:53 -0400 Subject: [Baren 22809] identifying my tools Hi everyone, I have a bit of a bizarre problem. My mom gave me all of her old bookbinding, printing and paper making tools. Some have been easier to identify than others. Other than the leather circle, I've at least identified their basic purpose. Unfortunately, that's about as far as I've got. I'm particularly interested in the cutting tools and how they should be sharpened. (And knowing what the leather circle is for.) Each of the tools is labelled/stamped on the side. I haven't taken a closer look at what the imprints are, but I've put imprint side up in each of the photographs. http://strangelittlegirl.com/tools/prints.html Any help would be much appreciated! emma :) - -- Emma Jane Hogbin [[ 416 417 2868 ][ www.xtrinsic.com ]] ------------------------------ From: Barbara Mason Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:08:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Baren 22810] Re: identifying my tools Emma, The round leather thing is to set the bock on as you carve it so you can turn it easily... The tools are called burins and you push them away from you. They are used for engraving, both metal and wood. The round part fits in the palm of your hand with your fingers holding the shaft. Get a book on wood engraving and you will be home free! The tools must be very sharp when you use them to work well and to not cut yourself. At least 10 minutes each of sharpening on a stone. Be sure to keep the exact angle. Get a book or find an engraver in your area to help you. There is a web site for wood engraving, perhaps Maria or John Center will help me out here, and I know they can recommed the right book.. Best to you, Barbara Emma Jane Hogbin wrote: Hi everyone, I have a bit of a bizarre problem. My mom gave me all of her old bookbinding, printing and paper making tools. Some have been easier to identify than others. Other than the leather circle, I've at least identified their basic purpose. Unfortunately, that's about as far as I've got. I'm particularly interested in the cutting tools and how they should be sharpened. (And knowing what the leather circle is for.) Each of the tools is labelled/stamped on the side. I haven't taken a closer look at what the imprints are, but I've put imprint side up in each of the photographs. http://strangelittlegirl.com/tools/prints.html Any help would be much appreciated! emma :) - -- Emma Jane Hogbin [[ 416 417 2868 ][ www.xtrinsic.com ]] ------------------------------ From: "Maria Arango" Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:10:17 -0700 Subject: [Baren 22811] RE: identifying my tools Oh boy! a quiz!!! Top to bottom: - -Box, oh wait, you already knew that... - -Wood Engraver's leather bag, expensive. Keeps the engraving blocks from slipping and also makes it easy to rotate the block when engraving curvy lines. - -End-grain blocks, look like cherry end-grain on the left and perhaps maple on the right? also used for wood engraving. - -Nice selection of (EC Lyons?) gravers (pointy ends), scorpers (rounded larger ends), and #3 looks like a diamond graver. Gravers are used for line work of different widths, the diamond graver is used for stippling work, scorpers are used to clear out the hard end-grain wood. You sharpen these by placing the very small flat portion of the tool (face) on a sharpening stone, carefully sharpening, without changing the shape of the face. Don't sharpen or in any way alter the sides (belly) of the tool. These tools are made so that gently grindng the face of the tool is all that is needed to obtain a sharp edge for the life of the blade. They don't so much cut as they engrave the wood. Oh, and they are no longer so expensive, US $10-20 a piece. Nice find! Maria <||><||><||><||><||><||><||><||><||><||> Maria Arango maria#mariarango.com Las Vegas Nevada USA http://www.1000woodcuts.com <||><||><||><||><||><||><||><||><||><||> -----Original Message----- From: owner-baren#ml.asahi-net.or.jp [mailto:owner-baren#ml.asahi-net.or.jp]On Behalf Of Emma Jane Hogbin Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 10:52 AM To: Baren Subject: [Baren 22809] identifying my tools ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez#walgreens.com Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:33:34 -0500 Subject: [Baren 22812] Re: Calendar - 2004 Web page update with pics and more prints received... Calendar prints arriving daily now. The calendar webpage has been updated with all prints received except for todays arrivals (Maria Arango, Carol L. Myers and Sharri LaPierre). Enjoy the prints ! http://www.barenforum.org/calendar/ thanks to all....Julio Rodriguez (Skokie, Illinois) ------------------------------ From: "Brad Teare" Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:52:56 -0600 Subject: [Baren 22813] slips I have gotten good results sharpening gouges by cutting a groove in wood, applying stroping compound, and stroking the gouge back and forth within that groove. I have a collection of slip stones and am now wondering if there is any real use for these stones. Are they just for shaping or reshaping the gouge? ------------------------------ From: Emma Jane Hogbin Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 16:00:18 -0400 Subject: [Baren 22814] Re: identifying my tools On Thu, Sep 18, 2003 at 11:08:29AM -0700, Barbara Mason wrote: The round leather thing is to set the bock on as you carve it so you can turn it easily... Right. Now that you mention it, I remember my mom saying something about that when we were going through the box. The tools are called burins and you push them away from you. They are used for engraving, both metal and wood. The round part fits in the palm of your hand with your fingers holding the shaft. Thank you for this explanation. I am ashamed to say when playing with them trying to understand where the cutting point was, I was using them up-side-down. I was thinking of a heavy cut on a chisel--flat side up, bevel-side down. I wasn't thinking "engraving" I was thinking, "I must scoop away this extra wood." As I was putting everything away it occurred to me that my index finger hurt more than it should and that I must have been holding them incorrectly (not to mention the palm of my hand where the corner of the wrong side of the handle was digging in). *ahem* I'm glad to have this information on how to use them. :) Get a book on wood engraving and you will be home free! The tools must be very sharp when you use them to work well and to not cut yourself. At least 10 minutes each of sharpening on a stone. Be sure to keep the exact angle. Get a book or find an engraver in your area to help you. There I understand the basic concept of tool sharpening from my dad, who is a woodworker. I will definitely seek out some books on wood *engraving* now that I know what I'm working with. Thanks for your email. :) - -- Emma Jane Hogbin [[ 416 417 2868 ][ www.xtrinsic.com ]] ------------------------------ From: Emma Jane Hogbin Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 16:14:21 -0400 Subject: [Baren 22815] Re: identifying my tools On Thu, Sep 18, 2003 at 11:10:17AM -0700, Maria Arango wrote: Oh boy! a quiz!!! heh You sharpen these by placing the very small flat portion of the tool (face) on a sharpening stone, carefully sharpening, without changing the shape of the face. Is all of this the face? http://strangelittlegirl.com/tools/face.jpg Or should there be a little ridge, like on a chisel? The #3 tool doesn't have the same (flat) face as the others. It is slightly dented in the middle. It must have two faces? Not just a single, flat one. When sharpening chisels you're supposed to remove the burr from the edge. Does this apply to these tools as well? (It's ok, I'll go find a book from the library tomorrow and will read it carefully before I start to play with the tools again.) Thank you for your help with my problem! emma - -- Emma Jane Hogbin [[ 416 417 2868 ][ www.xtrinsic.com ]] ------------------------------ From: "Maria Arango" Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:25:57 -0700 Subject: [Baren 22816] Re: identifying my tools Is all of this the face? http://strangelittlegirl.com/tools/face.jpg Or should there be a little ridge, like on a chisel? Yep, that's a red face alright, it must be embarrassed...no ridges on engraving tools. The #3 tool doesn't have the same (flat) face as the others. It is slightly dented in the middle. It must have two faces? Not just a single, flat one. Don't know any engraving tools with two faces, unless it's a multi-line tool; if it's an engraving diamond tool it should just have one face unless it's been altered for some mysterious purpose. If it's a multi-line tool, it will still have one face but multiple points to get parallel lines. Between those points there will be grooves extending the length of the face. If it's a hypocrit, it will have two faces. When sharpening chisels you're supposed to remove the burr from the edge. Does this apply to these tools as well? The steel of engraving tools is very hard, more than a burr you will get a "fuzz" on the edge, easily removed on the edge of a block. If the fuzz resists, use a gentle stroke on a polishing stone but careful with reshaping that belly! It is the sharp edge created between the face and the belly that produces the cutting edge on these tools. Maria ------------------------------ From: Emma Jane Hogbin Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:26:04 -0400 Subject: [Baren 22817] Re: identifying my tools On Thu, Sep 18, 2003 at 01:25:57PM -0700, Maria Arango wrote: Is all of this the face? http://strangelittlegirl.com/tools/face.jpg Yep, that's a red face alright, it must be embarrassed...no ridges on engraving tools. I think it's mad that it'd been used up-side-down. ;) Don't know any engraving tools with two faces, unless it's a multi-line tool; if it's an engraving diamond tool it should just have one face unless it's been altered for some mysterious purpose. I looked at it again very carefully and realized it's just the reflection that's dented, not the actual surface. This must be from an uneven sharpening at some point which made one side smooth and left the other side somehow marked or tarnished (not likely) or old ink or something. It definitely had me fooled and will require a skilled hand to sharpen correctly. The steel of engraving tools is very hard, more than a burr you will get a "fuzz" on the edge, easily removed on the edge of a block. If the fuzz resists, use a gentle stroke on a polishing stone but careful with reshaping that belly! It is the sharp edge created between the face and the belly that produces the cutting edge on these tools. In sewing I use the edge of a pin (the bit between the head and the shaft) to remove the burr from scissors. It only takes a stroke or two, I would assume the same amount of effort (i.e. virtually none) would be needed with these tools. Thank you for your patience with my questions. My tools and I appreciate your help. :) emma - -- Emma Jane Hogbin [[ 416 417 2868 ][ www.xtrinsic.com ]] ------------------------------ From: FurryPressII#aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:31:03 EDT Subject: [Baren 22818] Re: Baren Digest V24 #2375 arches 88 also called arches silk screen is a waterleaf which means it does not have any sizing so should be printed dry. Because it is very smooth i does print wood engravings very well dry. john center - ------------------------------ From: FurryPressII#aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:43:49 EDT Subject: [Baren 22819] Re: identifying my tools http://strangelittlegirl.com/tools/prints.html The round block is box wood, the rest look like maple but might also be box wood. Maria es correct on other info But the old tools generally have better steel than current ones. Depending on what kind of tools some cost more esp multi line tools. john center ------------------------------ From: FurryPressII#aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:50:03 EDT Subject: [Baren 22820] Re: identifying my tools sounds like a multi line tool if it has two lines these were sometimes used to make even black lines. If so this tool is not currently made so it would be a rare find. Multi line tools were invented for photo retuchers and not wood engravers but if the tool works use it. john ------------------------------ From: Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 18:09:22 -0700 Subject: [Baren 22821] Re: puzzle update! charset="iso-8859-1" Maria,...I would be happy to carve another block if you would like, Please let me know. Philip Hammond, OR ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V24 #2376 *****************************