Baren Digest Monday, 7 July 2003 Volume 24 : Number 2296 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wanda Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 09:34:29 -0700 Subject: [Baren 22157] msg from Sharri.... This is from Sharri: Jeanne, Remember Mike and the belt sander for conditioning those brushes? As soon as I can find my sander I intend to do that, however, in the meantime, I believe I heard someone mention using their cheese grater to condition their brushes. I think I know where that is :-) It also occured to me, if you are doing any gyotaki (sp?) printing, (ink and print a dead fish), and happen to be doing a Rock Fish, save the skin - it will probably work! Those devils are hell on hands - spines everywhere. And, talk about rough skin - they have obviously never heard of the industrial strength moisturizers I use. Mike, on the subject of the pillow book project, I also find the idea stimulating. When is sign-up, I don't want to miss this one. LOL (either laughing out loud, or little old lady) Congratulations, April, you run around with a most august company. Of course, doing fantastic prints is a definite plus and the not so secret to your success. In case that remark is not decipherable, it is a compliment - Happy printing, Sharri ------------------------------ From: pulpfic#sunshinecable.com Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 11:22:54 -0700 Subject: [Baren 22158] Michelle - Akua Kolor inks Hi Michelle, you wrote: >I will definitely give the Aqua Kolor Intaglio ink a go. I have a small >bottle of the water based relief stuff in blue and never could figure out >how to use it as it is so very runny. (That's my excuse for not being very >eager to try it again.) If you combine the liquid Akua Kolor with about the same amount of Tack Thickener, you'll find you have a fairly stiff ink that rolls out very well, remains totally translucent, and goes a long way with just a little on the brayer. The tack thickener is just for this purpose and works like magic. Try it! Randi - -- ------------------------------ From: Mike Lyon Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 13:43:51 -0500 Subject: [Baren 22159] Re: msg from Sharri.... At 09:34 AM 7/6/2003 -0700, Sharri wrote: >Mike, on the subject of the pillow book project, I also find the idea >stimulating. When is sign-up, I don't want to miss this one. Well, if this enthusiasm for a shunga exchange continues and there is no overwhelming shocked and outraged protest launched from the moral majority or victorian rightists, then sign-up for #19 will begin October 1, 2003. I'm considering a self-portrait with a knot in it if we go ahead with this one... (you go, Pinoccio! :----) - -- Mike Mike Lyon mailto:mikelyon#mlyon.com http://www.mlyon.com ------------------------------ From: FurryPressII#aol.com Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 15:32:53 EDT Subject: [Baren 22160] Re: msg from Sharri.... Looking forward to doing it. I would hope the coordinator was automatically in the exchange. Mike are you ever going to use that iron door stop on the first floor? I know a wood engraver who prints on that type of press Gaylord Shanalic. Not going to beat the oil/water horse for sure.. Just finished the key block and three of the color blocks for a print of the back side of the 1000 yen note. was wondering why there are two different red seals on the bill one different on each side? John "furrypress" Center ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:54:35 +0900 Subject: [Baren 22161] Re: msg from Sharri.... Wanda/Sharri wrote: > Remember Mike and the belt sander for conditioning those brushes? As > soon > as I can find my sander I intend to do that, however, in the meantime, I > believe I heard someone mention using their cheese grater to condition > their > brushes. Note though, that the sander and the grater perform two different functions - you actually need _both_ of them. First step with a brush is to get the overall shape right. Some people use scissors, some burn it on a grill, some use an electric sander. Here's an example of what I mean by 'shape': http://woodblock.com/temporary/four_brushes03.jpg Once the brush is shaped the way you like it, then you have to tear up the tips (make a whole bunch of 'split ends'), and that's where the grater/sharkskin comes into play ... When I visited Graham's place a few years back, he showed me his (excellent) set-up for doing this - he had a disc fitted into his table saw, with sandpaper on one side and some kind of grater disc on the other. Very quick work! (But the order is important - sanding first, then grating. If you do it the other way 'round, the sandpaper just cuts away all the delicate torn tips.) Dave ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V24 #2296 *****************************