Baren Digest             Saturday, 21 December 2002     Volume 21 : Number 2068


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Sharri LaPierre <Barebonesart#attbi.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 12:20:17 -0800
Subject: [Baren 20191] Re: Baren Digest V21 #2067 



I acquired some wintergreen oil from my pharmacy and have used it to
transfer. It works excellent. But I'm still sold on the lacquer thinner
transfers, I figured one sniff every 2 years or so won't kill me any 
sooner
than the fumes of the city.

Someone else already suggested using an iron, so I won't do that again 
except to say it works fine for me and transfers all the lines.  Maybe 
you didn't leave the iron on the image long enough to transfer the fine 
lines, or maybe the iron wasn't hot enough. I have even transferred 
images to EZ cut for cutting stamps, and you know how squishy and icky 
that stuff is!  Try it again, Sam, I mean Mike :-)

Sharri




------------------------------

From: Mike Lyon <mikelyon#mlyon.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 14:45:56 -0600
Subject: [Baren 20192] Re: Baren Digest V21 #2067 

At 12:20 PM 12/20/2002 -0800, Sharri wrote:

>Try it again, Sam, I mean Mike :-)


OK, I will try again!


------------------------------

From: "Carole Baker" <caroleb#gustavus.ak.us>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 13:34:36 -0900
Subject: [Baren 20193] Re:   key block transfer with oily ink 

Gayle said:

So, Carole, if I understand you correctly,  you ARE using oil based ink

> to put the image onto the color blocks, then after cleaning up, you
> carve the rest of those blocks, then print with the water/pigment/paste
> way of Moku Hanga and it WORKS?


Thats right, Gayle.  Transfer the kento marks  from the key block to the
other blocks keeps things registered. I just roll on a little strip of ink
below the straight Kento and around the corner one.  This is the method I
learned from Naboru Sawai, and I've never even tried the paste down method.
If you get a good transfer of ink, I can't see why this method doesn't work
as well.  And places where the oily ink have been (and has left a residue
even after cleaning witht thinner) do print OK.

I do seal my blocks before starting to cut which might influence  why the
oil doesn't hurt--half paint thinner and half varnish (Naboru used some sort
of floor sealer that they stopped making and now i'm using spar varnish)  I
pour the mixture on and rub in with 400 sandpaper on a block in little
circles and wipe of with a clean cloth.  This should dry at least 24 hours
before cutting.

And I also print light colors first, ending with my darks.

And more on those tracing paper prints that I said to save to make
corrections..When you trim off the inked kento mark to fit into the corner
and bottom platform thingy, trim the edges of the paper in line with the
marks or they will get in the way.  And i said you might want to use one of
your color blocks (one of the ones you first offset with ink from the
original key) as a key to one of the other color blocks that has already
been partly cut.  If so, cut the image of the kentos off with sissors after
making the print of this second key block and set into the already cut kento
of the added-to block and transfer.  You can readjust and go back and forth
on these blocks.  The tracing papers help too if you do some reduction with
some of the blocks.

Hope this makes sense and is helpful and doesn't seem herasy to some.

Carole Baker
Gustavus, Alaska


------------------------------

From: "Maria Diener (aka Arango)" <maria#mariarango.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 16:07:40 -0800
Subject: [Baren 20194] puzzle page updated

The puzzle page has been updated with the latest and the instructions.
Pictures still a-coming sometime in the near future.
http://www.1000woodcuts.com/puzzle/project.html

You will receive a set of the instructions with your block, so no need to
print.
Maria

<||><||><||><||><||><||>
     Maria Arango
  Las Vegas Nevada USA
  www.1000woodcuts.com
<||><||><||><||><||><||>



------------------------------

From: "Lee and Barbara Mason" <lbmason71#attbi.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:13:26 -0800
Subject: [Baren 20195] scary hanga stuff 

I think all this stuff about shrinkage and kentos moving and scary stuff is
not for us beginners...I just do the blocks and print them and leave this
other scary stuff for the more experienced people. When I get to the point
that my work is so fine that shrinking a hair will make a difference, I will
worry about it. I am  a long way from that point! So all you new people,
just have a good time, try this and don't worry about a problem until you
actually have it!
Best to all,
Barbara

------------------------------

From: Charles Morgan <cmorgan#uvic.ca>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 17:39:45 -0800
Subject: [Baren 20196] Re: Registration and Puzzle 

 Hi, Mike ...

Well, how fine is fine? The transfer is NOT like the original for sure. 
VERY fine lines seem to be "spotty". But there is always enough to go back 
in with a very fine tipped pen and "connect the dots". I have found it to 
be as good as lacquer thinner transfers for me. BUT 1) the block must 
be  SMOOTH, 2) the iron must be HOT, and 3) I have not done nearly as many 
as you have.

When I do use heat, I try to make sure that the ORIGINAL has VERY DARK, 
WELL-DEFINED lines, so that the laser copy has very dark, well-defined 
lines. So of course, I am trying to avoid hair thin lines.

But when I tried it, I found lacquer thinner transfer did not work well 
with fine lines either.  And the lacquer thinner seemed to diffuse into the 
block, smudging the lines. I had to be VERY careful to use just the right 
amount of lacquer thinner ... too little gave no transfer, while too much 
gave smudged lines.

I do not mean to be "preachy". Everybody has to use what works for them. I 
guess MY "fine line" is that I will swap line width for exposure to 
carcinogens, if it comes to that.

Sorry to hear that you did not have good success with ink jet and water 
transfer. It just seems like such a natural. For the ink that does not seem 
to transfer easily with water alone, I wonder if the addition of a small 
amount of ammonia or alcohol would dissolve the inks more readily. Sorry, I 
have no first hand experience here.

Cheers ...... Charles

At 01:31 PM 12/20/02 -0600, you wrote:

>Question, Charles: I haven't had much luck doing "iron-on" toner transfers 
>as my thin lines are barely visible on the wood -- not much toner actually 
>transfers -- is that your experience, too?  Or maybe my iron is too puny?



------------------------------

From: b.patera#att.net
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 10:58:46 +0000
Subject: [Baren 20197] Re: old goat 

What a great print! Thanks for showing it.... though makes me doubly sorry not 
to have received one.

Barbara Patera

------------------------------

From: b.patera#att.net
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 11:29:10 +0000
Subject: [Baren 20198] Re: Registration and Puzzle 

Re: transfering ink jet prints onto blocks. I have found that no water is 
needed if the ink jet print is fresh....just print your drawing, lay it face 
down on your block, and rub. Also it is great to print your drawing on one of 
those ink receptive actetate sheets. They release the ink onto your block 
beautifully and you can see what is transfering without lifting and peeking.

Barbara P.

------------------------------

End of Baren Digest V21 #2068
*****************************