Baren Digest Tuesday, 26 November 2002 Volume 21 : Number 2040 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: G Wohlken Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:31:09 -0500 Subject: [Baren 19954] Thanks re framing I appreciate everyone's input about framing. It seems what everyone's saying is: if you have the equipment and room to work, (or in Sarah's case a framer who is on the side of the starving artist) then doing it yourself, either alone or as a co-op with other artists (and especially using metal rather than wooden frames [unless you find ready made wooden frames at a special price]) is the only way to save money. Lots to think about. I appreciate Thea's (and welcome to Baren, Thea) input as she is a professional framer who admits the prices for materials are high even for her. Oh, to be resourceful, good at it all, and love doing it all! Like Sarah, I'd far rather be carving and printing. Second best, then: Oh, to find a framer like Sarah's. Thanks everyone. Greatly appreciated. * * * * Mike, are you going to be putting this Kansas City Summit sign-up online when some of us are away for the Thanksgiving holiday?????? :-( Gayle Ohio ------------------------------ From: ArtfulCarol#aol.com Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:20:17 EST Subject: [Baren 19955] Re: Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 14:51:23 -0900 Love all those woodblocks, Carole, Especially the Iris and the Poppy. There is no credit to you for this beautiful work, or did I miss it? Do you mind? What about copyright? Carol Lyons Irvington, NY ------------------------------ From: "PHARE-CAMP,PATTI (HP-USA,ex1)" Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 07:31:40 -0800 Subject: [Baren 19956] RE: Baren Digest V21 #2038 Regarding Framing: The first nice thing about metal framing is you can break it down for storage and quickly put back together again for unexpected exhibition opportunities. The next nice thing about metal framing is that it is easy to repair or repaint. Last nice thing about metal framing is you can buy two sides at a time and put them together any size you want. I have an old wine case with dividers and it's great for storing the wrapped sections on end when not in use. I have a designated "gallery" toolbox that I store only framing hardware and tools in. Inside are framing tack/brads, small brass nails, picture hanging nails/assemblies, frame wire of various strengths, the hardware to attach frame sides to each other, a hammer, a wire cutter/needle nose pliers, ratchet screwdriver with various bits that store in the handle, paper tape, scissors, a level and masking tape (used for marking walls for frame placement). This is in addition to other my standard tool kit, ceramics tool box, craft toolbox and a separate toolkit just for stretching canvas. My printmaking tools are stored in two of those little drawer sets that can be hung on the wall of a garage (in my case a studio) those little hardware drawers are just the right size to store knives, tubes of ink, barens and brayers. As for archival matting, I sometimes buy a few sheets of ivory and white archival matt board and have them cut for backing. I have several different standard size precut archival mats as well the most common size I use is 16" x 20"). These can be stored flat under the bed in portfolio pouches. One important thing to remember is that if you have mats with color than you need to put them back to back and slip paper in between them, you don't want them touching as even archival colored mats will scratch marks onto one another. I use the stored items for exhibitions. Sometimes these framed prints will sell. I always offer to frame a print that was purchased (for a price). Then if the customer wants it I can get fancy. I have frame catalogs and will leaf through them pick out a few frames I think will compliment the art and let the customer select one. I am not a professional framer and I will only frame art that is mine. I will also direct them to a friend of mine who does great framing work and will give my customers a nice discount. (he knows my work) I rarely cut my own mats, I'm a lousy mat cutter. I let my friend do that for me. Now one word about framing your own stuff. Make sure you use GOOD framing tape and "hinge" your artwork. I was just at the gallery of my framer friend and he has an artist that did his own framing. These large beautiful nudes with jewel like colors are not selling. First of all they are priced in the $900-$1000 range and he used cheap frames. And most of all he used double sided tape to mount the works floating directly onto to black matt board (black being one of the most fugitive colors) and the adhesive didn't support the weight of the watercolor paper. OOPS, how tacky to have your art falling inside the frame, especially when the potential customer can see how cheap you were as to use cellophane tape on high priced art! My friend is too nice, he simply called the guy and told him to come fix it. I would have pulled it off the wall and told him to come get it! Patti P-C ------------------------------ From: "marilynn smih" Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:16:00 -0800 Subject: [Baren 19957] Re: Baren Digest V21 #2039 Carol loved seeing your work. Always a treat when someone shares. Welcome to our new memeber and one who is a framer. You will probably be giving advice. Yes I have a hard time not expressing my thoughts, just me! I tried to make it fun and light because each person who entered that exchange did so in good faith. They wrapped their parcels and addressed their packages and sent their postage all in good faith. They cared and they want their work back in good shape. It was an attempt to educate so that happens. No one wants to get back a suite of prints that is destroyed by bad packaging. And we want our volunteers happy so they will continue to help. Marilynn ------------------------------ From: Legreenart#cs.com Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:33:51 EST Subject: [Baren 19958] Re: Baren Digest V21 #2039 StoneMetal Press is encouraging artists who are comong to the Press for their projects to consider woodblock for their propject. Most come with etching and litho on their minds, but we show them the energetic possibilities of a woodblock. Kathleen lucked out this summer when she found George Yepes, well known L.A. muralist and painter, struggling to hand print a woodblock in the parking lot. She offered our services, and we have been able to show how experienced printers (although oily) can bring out both the strong dark forceful marks and the delicate detail and woodgrain. After I pulled a proof that met with George's approval, I brought my printmaking daughter, Crystal Dittert Green, to San Antonio to edition it. (I don't have the stamina for large scale, 25" x36" ). It has not been an easy block, (driving over it with a car may have something to do with the uneveness of the plate, but I am thrilled we can offer a woodcut from a major artist for sale. The edition still isn't finished, we have one more session to go. The final edition size will be between 30 and 45 prints. Check out the image on our web site at http://www.stonemetal-press.com/printsales.htm. ------------------------------ From: Cyndy Wilson Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 12:02:12 -0700 Subject: [Baren 19959] Re: Thanks re framing Regarding the framing thing.... I'm a professional framer so I usually enjoy it, but for those who don't, etc. you should try to find a framer/owner who would be interested in trading you framing for your prints. The woman I work for part-time loves original prints and sells them in her shop. She's very willing to work out trades if people can do/make something that she needs in the shop. Worth trying. Cyndy ------------------------------ From: "Maria Arango" Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:12:24 -0800 Subject: [Baren 19960] RE: framing I agree with the framing tips and tricks. I mat and frame all my stuff and would not have it any other way. One good thing about this that was not mentioned is that customers know how expensive it is to frame and appreciate good framing at low cost. I have increased the sales of my framed pieces a great deal over these couple of years; people like ready to hang art. I would also suggest buying quantity of framing supplies (matboard by the case, frames in quantities, glass by the box) to take advantage of discounts. You can get great deals on wood frames, which travel better than metal in my experience and look much better to the popular audience. Wide metal frames also look good, but people are shying away from the standard Nielsen frames. Almost everyone that buys expensive pieces wants glass, not plexi. Glass also travels better (if you can believe that!). I have only had two broken pieces in all my travels, while I have replaced at least 20 plexiglass due to scratches. Another comment is that you need to keep your particular audience in mind. It is true that galleries and collectors of fine prints prefer simple framing, usually one neutral mat and an unobtrusive frame. I frame prints that I keep that way. However, if you sell directly to the public they tend to prefer elegant items with double or triple mats. Actually I also started double matting my gallery entries (in call for entry competitions) despite their recommended "neutral" mat bias. Since I started double matting I have sold more even in academic competition settings. Keeping the principal mat a neutral color, a print looks better with a thin accent mat, just MHO. If you sell public direct, triple matting looks scrumptious, still keeping the main mat and the frame neutral. I use black or dark walnut frames mostly; hunky metal sectionals on the larger pieces. People gobble them up and once you get used to mat cutting it really isn't that much work. I keep a record of the frame and mat dimensions for the pieces that sell consistently so I don't have to think and/or measure all the time. I just look at my tiny file and chop chop. I think when you make a living as an artist exclusively, you find out that you have to become a decorator as well. You can't match everyone's house, nor should you try, but people expect good quality framing in addition to your wonderful images. Happy dressing up your prints! Maria <><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Maria Arango 1/1 Las Vegas, Nevada, USA http://www.1000woodcuts.com maria#mariarango.com <><><><><><><><><><><><><><> ------------------------------ From: Mike Lyon Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 16:36:40 -0600 Subject: [Baren 19961] Re: framing At 02:12 PM 11/25/2002 -0800, Maria wrote: >Almost everyone that buys expensive pieces wants glass, not >plexi. Glass also travels better (if you can believe that!). I have only had >two broken pieces in all my travels, while I have replaced at least 20 >plexiglass due to scratches. Agreed (or just 'learned' from) everything you wrote, Maria, except this one comment... Glass is less expensive than plexi, and 'clearer', but there's a BIG risk with glass which is why the really fine work on paper is so frequently glazed with UV-plexi... Because there's less risk to the work. When the glass breaks (which we all know it occasionally does), those shards can damage the artwork just as surely as they can damage your fingers! Don't mean to be nit-picking here, though... Nice essay! Mike Lyon mailto:mikelyon#mlyon.com http://www.mlyon.com ------------------------------ From: "Maria Arango" Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:43:45 -0800 Subject: [Baren 19962] Re: framing > there's a BIG risk with glass which is why the really fine work > on paper is > so frequently glazed with UV-plexi... Because there's less risk to the > work. When the glass breaks (which we all know it occasionally does), > those shards can damage the artwork just as surely as they can > damage your > fingers! Yes indeedy! One of the pieces that broke skewered my Newel print. Funny thing about that, both times that I broke the glass on a piece (usually my careless unloading, not during the drive) I placed an "injured" sign on it and sold it for the price of the framed piece minus the price of the glass. People like taking wounded prints home I guess :-) Maria ------------------------------ From: Mike Lyon Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 17:34:15 -0600 Subject: [Baren 19963] BAREN SUMMIT SIGN UP BEGINS TOMORROW OFFICIAL NOTICE: Tomorrow morning at around 11am, Central US time zone, the BAREN SUMMIT SIGN UP link will GO LIVE. You'll be able to link to the sign-up form from our main page at that time http://www.barenforum.org at that time... Unfortunately, I'll be travelling during our Thanksgiving holiday from Wednesday through Sunday this week, so I won't be available to post participant information during that time. Please be patient -- I'll get your names up there Monday, December 2... GOOD LUCK !!! Here's a preview: - ---------- In recent years, [Baren] members have talked about organizing a get-together on a grand scale - a real [Baren] convention. Planning discussions have been going on among the Council members for a long time, always listening to suggestions from group members, and we are ready to make the formal announcement. The first group convention - to be known as the [Baren] Summit - will be held at the Lyon Art Studio 2026 Broadway, Kansas City, Missouri, USA from June 14 through June 22, 2003 and is open to the first 30 [Baren] subscribers who register. WHO: The first 30 [Baren] subscribers to complete the sign-up (we'll consider opening up some more places if it turns out to be so popular)... WHAT: The Baren Summit -- a gathering of printmakers interested in Japanese polychrome woodblock printing. WHEN: The studio will be available from 3 pm Saturday, June 14, 2003. The [Baren Summit] will continue for one week, from Sunday morning June 15 through the following Saturday evening June 21. Participants must depart by 2 pm Sunday, June 22, 2003. WHERE: Lyon Art Studio, 2026 Broadway, Kansas City, Missouri, 64108, USA 816-421-1110. The studio includes a large parking lot West of the building accessible from Washington Street (one block West of Broadway). ACCOMMODATIONS: Bring your sleeping bag and mat and sleep on the floor in the studio, or make reservations at any of numerous nearby hotels and motels. You can help [Baren] by using the Expedia.com link below to make your air, hotel, and auto reservations, as [Baren] will receive a small commission from any travel arrangements you make that way (thanks!). EVENTS: What will happen at the [Baren] Summit? Will it be just an empty room filled with printmakers milling around, or will it be a series of 'lectures' from 'experts'? It will be both, and neither. A full schedule of presentations and activities is not being prepared. Participants are expected to be generally self-motivated; the [Baren] Summit is intended to be a 'framework' for exchange of information. The physical environment will consist of a large open workroom, filled with tables ready for work to begin. Participants will bring their own tools, supplies, and planned projects. We fully intend that as we get started, and as the general interests and abilities of the participant group become apparent, specific training activities will be initiated. These may include: * fundamentals of 'hanga' printmaking ... (printing, color separation, etc.) * baren tying and maintenance * paper moistening * gradation printing * mica, metallics, lusters We know already from prior group discussions that there will be a good mix of people there, from relatively inexperienced workers right through to people with world-class skills, but there will be no 'instructors' and no 'students' - the emphasis will be on sharing and learning from each other, irrespective of ability. * We do plan to gather together each evening for a brief and very informal slide show and tell so that you may show and discuss your own work and also enjoy the presentations made by others. There will be no more than three artists per evening limited to 15 minutes per presentation. If you'd like to be a 'presenter', please so indicate when you sign up. * We do plan to take some 'field trips' during the week (participation is entirely optional, of course, and there may be a modest cost for transportation and entry)... * The Spencer Museum in Lawrence, Kansas (an hour drive) -- they will be showing a special exhibition of prints of interest to us during that time. * The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art(a 10 minute drive) -- they have one of the nation's finest Chinese art collections. * The Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art (a 10 minute drive) -- contemporary prints, paintings, sculpture, photography. * A viewing of the best examples from the studio's collection of ancient Japanese woodblock prints (more than 500 prints). * The Hallmark Cards Visitor's Center about a mile away. * The studio is in "The Crossroads Arts District" of Kansas City, so there are more than a dozen retail art galleries within easy walking distance. Some participants may simply carry on their regular work, listening with half an ear to whatever is going on; others may wish to spend their time explaining and demonstrating their own working methods; some may start up an informal print exchange; some may watch others work and take pictures or videos; some may spend time on 'After-Five' activities! We have no doubt at all that the mix of several dozen woodblock printmakers in the same room for a week or so will result in plenty of dynamic activity! WHAT TO BRING: You may want to consider including the following when you pack: * Money for food and supplies * Quarters for the soda machine * Washer and drier are available free of charge (bring your own detergent) * Printmaking supplies: * drawing paper and supplies * wood blocks * carving tools * razor knife * paper towel * cloth rags * water-soluble colorants * mica / metallics / interference * shallow pigment dishes, or jars * nishiki (rice paste) * brushes * baren(s) * masking tape * straight edge or ruler * Sleeping Bag * Pillow * Sleeping mat or airbed (Eddie Bauer makes an airbed for $50 that self inflates in about 5 seconds with four D batteries) * Casual but neat clothing (don't forget underwear) * bath robe, pajamas * Towel(s) * Soap & Shampoo * Toothbrush/Toothpaste and other personal toilet articles * Medications and first-aid including gauze, tape, scissors, Band-Aids, Betadyne, alcohol wipes, or other disinfectant to sterilize wounds :-o * Cooler for drinks and any perishable food * Travel alarm clock or alarm watch * Books * CD player or radio w/ headphones. COST: Basically, FREE (no food, materials, transportation, or hotels provided, only "floor space"). Because registration must be limited it would be unfair to allow frivolous registration. So we require you to make a "good faith damage deposit" of $75 plus a non-refundable $5 handling charge. At the conclusion of the [Baren] Summit, assuming that the studio is left in the same condition as at the beginning, your deposit will be refunded in full. But if you sign up and subsequently don't show up, or if the studio and/or contents are damaged, we will keep your deposit. Fair enough? - ---------- - ---------- We hope you find the idea of attending the Summit interesting, and we hope that you can make it! Please join us! Sign up should take about five minutes to complete. It consists of the following steps: * Thoroughly read the "BAREN SUMMIT ASSUMPTION OF RISK, RELEASE OF LIABILITY, AND INDEMNIFICATION AGREEMENT" * Signify your agreement by clicking the [Register for Baren Summit Button]. * When you click the button you will be logged into Pay Pal -- follow the directions to sign in or sign up (outside USA use International Account) and pay $80 ($75 refundable deposit+$5 handling) US$ * When you have completed payment, you will be directed to a final form - -- required fields are marked with an * * Watch for you name to appear over the next several days in the "REGISTERED" list above. Questions? mailto:summit#barenforum.org - ---------- BAREN SUMMIT ASSUMPTION OF RISK, RELEASE OF LIABILITY, AND INDEMNIFICATION AGREEMENT In consideration for being allowed to be a participant in the [Baren] Summit at the studio of Lyon Art, Ltd. and elsewhere from June 14, 2003 through June 22, 2003, I understand there are dangers in printmaking, sharp tools, power tools, pigments, solvents, other chemicals and substances, meeting, carving, printing, cutting, attending class, demonstrating, presenting, travelling, driving, visiting, taking field trips, living in close quarters with people from diverse cultures and circumstances [together called "Summit Activities"] with the possibility of serious permanent physical and emotional injury, and possibility of death. I understand that no amount of care, caution, instruction or supervision can eliminate the dangers inherent in Summit Activities. I hereby personally and volitionally assume all these risks, and I waive any liability for negligence which may result from the conduct, acts or omissions, land or building conditions, equipment or facilities of 2026 Broadway, LLC, Lyon Art, Ltd., Michael R. Lyon, their domestic affiliates, and their employees, agents, officers, directors, volunteers, instructors, independent contractors, and guests [called "Released Parties"]. I agree to hold these Released Parties harmless, release, and discharge the above named Released Parties from any and all liabilities, claims, demands, or causes of action that I may have. I also agree to indemnify the Released Parties in the event I or my family cause personal injury or property damage to any person or property during the Summit Activities. I understand that this indemnification includes payment for all loss, including any court or arbitration costs, attorney's fees, awards incurred by or adjudged against the Released Parties. I certify that I have adequate insurance to cover any injury or damage I may cause or suffer while participating, or else I agree to bear the costs of such injury or damage myself. I further certify that I am willing to assume the risk of any medical or physical conditions I may have. I stipulate and agree that in the event of any dispute regarding this Agreement or pertaining to the Summit Activities, that the venue, forum and jurisdiction shall only be in Kansas City, Missouri, USA. In the event that I file a lawsuit against any Release Party, I agree to do so solely in the State of Missouri, and I further agree that the substantive law of Missouri shall apply in that action. If any portion of this agreement is found to be void or unenforceable, I agree that the remaining portions shall remain in full force and effect. By clicking on the [REGISTER for BAREN SUMMIT] button below and making a payment through PayPal.com to Lyon Art, Ltd., I signify that I am at least 18 years old and that I understand and agree to the above. - ---------- Mike Lyon mailto:mikelyon#mlyon.com http://www.mlyon.com ------------------------------ From: Mike Lyon Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:18:16 -0600 Subject: [Baren 19964] Re: BAREN SUMMIT SIGN UP BEGINS TOMORROW At 05:34 PM 11/25/2002 -0600, I wrote: >Tomorrow morning at around 11am, Central US time zone, the BAREN SUMMIT >SIGN UP link will GO LIVE. You'll be able to link to the sign-up form >from our main page at that time http://www.barenforum.org at that time... Just a quick reminder for you 'early birds' out there: At around 11:00 when you are repeatedly clicking on the 'Baren Summit' button and it seems like 11am has come and gone and you still get the NOT YET page... Try hitting the "Refresh" button on your browser ! Goin' to dinner now! Mike Mike Lyon mailto:mikelyon#mlyon.com http://www.mlyon.com ------------------------------ From: John and Jan Telfer Date: Tue, 26 Nov 02 19:01:46 +0800 Subject: [Baren 19965] Re:Printing with a warped woodblock! Printing a little warped wood block. I thought I might share my experience with you! If it is warped before you start...straighten it!! Dampen it on both sides or give it a quick bath and then on the bowed side (convex side) put something heavy on it and increase the weight after a few hours...don't put it in a book press or vice straight away or you may spit the block and have to carve it all over again!! My block is one I had printed before... it is about 5 inches square ... a 3 ply cherry block with lines reasonably fine (not Japanese fine, but fine for me) which held up well to a linear design. It is my current Christmas Card Design and I wanted to print some extra copies but was too impatient to wait to flatten the block, so suffered the initial consequences. The design was cut on the side of the block that was concaved - the middle of the block touched the table the ends were like rocking horse rails! The paper (Fabriano smooth 200 gsm) did not adhere to the fine lines with the oil based ink and by using the baren over the entire block the paper moved slightly as I worked from end to end giving the print a ghosting, that is movement .... a bad print! After the 5th print I changed my printing technique. Solution: After rolling the ink on to the block (same as before), I placed the paper on differently, holding the paper up and registering it across the middle of the block first, and worked it towards each end. I used the baren first on the top half and then on the bottom half, but did not return to the top half... Result: Perfect. But to save you this stress, flatten the block first! I then hand coloured them all with watercolour. The first batch I did 70 ... the second lot, 24 minus 5!! Happy printing everyone. Jan Western Australia. ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V21 #2040 *****************************