Baren Digest Monday, 25 March 2002 Volume 18 : Number 1776 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Myron Turner Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 07:01:42 -0600 Subject: [Baren 17660] Re: Need advice printing on a litho press I would be curious to know whether anyone has ever printed a woodblock on a litho press. There's a dragging motion to a litho press which seem counter-intuitive to me. But then maybe not. Myron At 09:02 PM 23/03/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Don't see why a litho press should not work not sure if there is enought >pressure though. > >John center ------------------------------ From: Myron Turner Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 07:44:39 -0600 Subject: [Baren 17661] Re: presses I have been using an etching press for 20 years. Before that I used a large Vandercook. There's no doubt that a Vandecook had advantages, since it's made for relief printing. But the usual limitation of a Vanderook is in the size of the prints it can handle. Most Vandercooks have narrow beds. The one I used came from a newspaper (I believe it was called the 325G). That press weighed in at about 2 tons and its maxium printing width was 24 inches. One great advantage of a Vandercook is that on most models you can register prints with precision. One disadvantage (compared to an etching press) is that it's tricky to print from a block even slightly warped, because all printing surfaces have to be type high. With an etching press, if you put the block through the press in the direction of the warp, the press compensates for the warp. The difference is this: on the Vandercook the press bed is stationary while on an etching press the bed moves. This means that on the Vandercook the relationship of the cylinder to the block is fixed: as it moves over the block, if there's a low point due to warp, there won't be enough pressure and it will print light; at the high point it will print darker. On the etching press, the block moves as it's fed between the cylinder and the press bed. Myron At 09:14 PM 23/03/2002 -0500, you wrote: >for relief printing a proof press such as a vandercook is the best for >etching contact graphic chem. You can print a relief print on an etching >press but you asked for the best and i find it is not a good way to do it. > >forgive me for second post but i have been a way from the computer a few days >lots of mail here > >john ------------------------------ From: John and Jan Telfer Date: Sun, 24 Mar 02 22:28:36 -0000 Subject: [Baren 17662] Re: Printing on Heavy weight papers Dear Sirima, > The series of blocks that I'm working on are all about 25" x 37". > http://www.hwy1studios.com/Portfolio/ss_art/trees/ I had a look at your trees Sirima and they are beautifully rendered. You don't seem to have a problem with your printing these. > Usually proof on dry mulberry or masa (50-70 gm2) 27" x 40" using >Daniel Smith's water soluble trad relief ink (oil) and a wooden spoon on >a cool,foggy days. (I live by the ocean). The proofs come out great but >I'm not happy with the paper for editioning. If you are proofing on Mulberry or masa paper and you like them, why don't you edition on the same paper especially as you are having RSI problems. The paper is good paper and strong. Try some of the other Japanese papers that Dave mentioned a few days ago which will be in the Baren Encyclopaedia already.....Washi and Kozo types. These are much easier to print than the heavier papers but very strong. I Print dry and with a good baren....whether a bamboo covered baren (6"), a John Root or a ball bearing baren (but I have to be careful the paper doesn't lift and move fractionally with the latter). You have to lift the paper from each corner using the heavier papers to see if you have the pressure even in all areas, but be careful not to move the paper on the block. > a.. Does anyone know of professional grade large format paper that >is under 80 gm? I seem to have better success at that paper wt. Try the Japanese papers or hot press Fabriano 80gsm (that's smooth) > a.. Does anyone have advice for getting a crisp edition of 30 + on >heavy wt paper over 100gm2. (was someone using Rives BFK?) Yes, I use BFK and Fabriano, but you will find the BFK is softer, it soaks up more ink and leaves a lighter tone and is harder to use. With all papers you have to get the ink consistency correct...so that it sounds like a fine "zipper" under the running roller (brayer) not like a car running along a wet pavement that sounds like thick mud sticking to the tyres. The ink must be rolled lightly onto the block, not thick and guey. And the pressure from the baren needs to be reasonably firm. Because you use a baren then it doesn't matter how many circulatory passes you do over the back of the paper...two minutes worth, five minutes worth....more...help! you have to be consistent and I find methodical so that you know you have covered each area evenly. So, take the telephone off the hook, take the latch off the front door so you can tell people to come in without having to interrupt your printing...or put the answering machine on or tell everyone you are going on holidays for a couple of days to get in some good printing! time!!! > a.. What do we think about printing on dry vs damp paper? Several suggestions have come through the last week on printing both on damp....that's damp and not "wet" or alternatively on dry paper...try both to see which one suits you. > a.. Does anyone print their blocks on a rotary or litho press? Many. Again it is a personal choice, so try both too. Sirima, I would suggest you try all the methods of printing relief blocks...I have a book press in my shed which I used to use too, and that is another method .... to find the style of printing that best suits you. Enjoy the experimenting. Jan ------------------------------ From: FurryPressII@aol.com Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 09:42:37 EST Subject: [Baren 17663] Re: warpage I solve warpage by hand inking and some make ready on my vandercook. I have done 25 color reductions prints only way to do that is on a vandercook because the registration is so easy. I saw a very wide vandercook at hatch show card. Wondering if it was a custum press or .... john ------------------------------ From: Dan Dew Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:08:36 -0500 Subject: [Baren 17665] Litho Ink Speaking of inks, I have been experimenting lately with Offset Litho Ink. Other than being a royal pain in the $^* to clean up, it rolls out nicely with a brayer and goes on Lino or wood very smoothly. What I like best is that it doesn't fill in the lines, allowing me to carve and print extremely fine carving at a minimal depth. Oh yeah, it also has excellent pigmentation. You have to have the arms of a bear to baren up the ink, but it sure does look nice. Some time soon I'll post the results. I am so pumped about this Baren Bash next year! **************************** Daniel L. Dew ddew0001@tampabay.rr.com ddew@tampabay.rr.com http://www.dandew.com **************************** ------------------------------ From: Bette Wappner Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 22:35:17 -0500 Subject: [Baren 17666] Re: Litho Ink Dan and everyone I like the sound of this litho ink. Can you clean it up with vegetable oil that I've been reading about some other people using? Thanks, Bette Wappner ------------------------------ From: Dan Dew Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 23:31:39 -0500 Subject: [Baren 17667] Re: Litho Ink Yes, or baby wipes or that citrus spray stuff. dan de > From: Bette Wappner > Subject: [Baren 17666] Re: Litho Ink > > Can you clean it up with vegetable oil > that I've been reading about some other people using? > ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V18 #1776 *****************************