Baren Digest              Monday, 25 February 2002      Volume 18 : Number 1737


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Cucamongie@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 08:40:59 EST
Subject: [Baren 17171] shoebrushes etc 


Hi folks, I know some of you may use shoebrushes to your satisfaction, but 
for one who has tried shoebrushes and the real maru-bake, they are well worth 
the extra investment, I started out with a small one and a larger one until I 
could one by one get a variety of sizes.  Your printing will go a lot 
smoother with the maru-bake, and I believe there are some that are already 
"prepared" (ends singed and brushed on sharkskin) available through the baren 
mall.  You can also do the preparing yourself.  The way I've done it is by 
singing the very ends of the brush by placing it in a pie tin on a hot plate 
which I put out on my fire escape cause the fumes are terrible.  Then I brush 
back and forth on "dragonskin" which is a gritty metal surface available from 
McClain's, which you can use if sharkskin is not readily available, 
constantly wetting the brush, then continuing to brush back and forth and 
diagonally on the dragonskin surface.  I believe there is most likely a 
description of this process on the Baren encyclopedia and/or Graham's website.
Enjoy-

Sarah


------------------------------

From: "Rudolf Stalder" <stalderp@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 09:24:55 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17172] Dremel tools / Sorrow 

Dremel tools,

my experience with "Dremel" is rather negative. In some "lucky" situations
it may work very well, but over-all I think it is not first choice for heavy
duty purposes and/or if quality is a request. I would not dispute positive
experience but dismiss very negative comments neither.

- --------

Thanks Jeanne, will send the prints at the address provided:

When I up-dated "artist-links" (http://www.rst-art.com/rstlinks.htm) on by
web-site in-between last Christmas and New year  I created a spot
"WEB-EXPOSITIONS" referring to

Lawrence Finn :   The HERMETIC GARDEN
Jeanne N. Chase : SORROW and a trip to the "Pere LeChaise" Cemetary in
Paris and
Carol Lyons : Deuteronomy ( A group exhibit at the Westchester Jewish
Center, Mamaroneck, NY

three presentations very well done

best regards

Rudolf



------------------------------

From: Graham <gscholes@woodblock.info>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 07:19:19 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17173] Re: shoe brushes 


Hi Nancy,

You are so right about shoe brushes...

I would like to add a little to Barbara's post.

The site that gives you a real insight (*<:) is at 
http://www.woodblock.info/bootcamp/inkbrush.html It carefully 
explains the fine tuning of inking brushes. I know lots of folks 
don't like or have the facilities to burn to shape a brush. You can 
consider a belt sander if a wheel sander is not available.  As 
Barbara sez ... shaping and feathering the brushes is important to 
get a smooth lay on pigment.   You could purchase a shark skin but is 
not a must have tool.  It is interesting to note it takes a heck lot 
of work to shape a brush with a shark skin.

The Sosake Brushes  at: 
http://www.barenforum.org/mall/products/maru_bake.html are -not- a 
buy and use unit. They require shaping and the tips of the hair have 
to be feathered as discribed on my site.  The "professional grade" on 
the same page are very good although I have found it necessary to 
round over the shoulders slightly. But then I am pretty fussy about 
my brushes.

Graham/Sidney BC
An Island in the Pacific
Home of the Boot Camp




------------------------------

From: "Jean Eger Womack" <jeaneger@jeaneger.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 09:48:55 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17174] Re:   Baren Digest V18 #1736 

Barbara, I sent the "Fog" print to Steven Goddard at the University of
Kansas Spencer print room many weeks ago.

Jean Eger Womack

e-mail: jeaneger@jeaneger.com
http://www.jeaneger.com

------------------------------

From: "Linda" <LMHTWB@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:33:50 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17175] Re: rotary toys 

Gee, I go away for a day or two and I come back to an interesting
discussion.  Maybe I need a laptop for the road?!

As for rotary tools -- I've used Dremel, Foredom, and Gesswein.  Here's my
never so humble opinion.  Please keep in mind that my expierence with these
tools is as a wood and stone carver, mainly.  (I have tried doing some areas
of print plates with them, but I much prefer my chisels for that.)  Someone
carving wood for 8 hours a day will put more stress on it than someone
cutting a plate for 30 minutes a day.

Dremel may be good as a starter tool, but it's crap from what I've
experienced.  (I had one for about 6 months, used it for about 2 months of
that time, and then gave it away.)  I've known a number of people who have
been turned off by rotary carvers because of it.  I know, Maria, you swear
that it's wonderful, and it maybe for you, but I and a lot of people I know
do more swearing at it than by it!  It's cheap and readily available, but
it's noisy, full of vibrations, and only takes small bits.  And when trying
to remove large areas of wood quickly, or carving very hard wood, it's
pathetic -- it just doesn't have the power.  (BTW, Sears sells a cheaper
rotary tool that looks just like Dremel, because, hey, it's made by Dremel!)
Now, the Dremel I'm talking about is the cute hand-held motor version.
Dremel has expanded it's line to some different models, such as the
reciprocating stuff.  (I haven't tried their reciprocating attachment,
because with it's lack of power, I can't see how it could do that very
well.)

Foredom is a flexible shaft rotary tool, which means that the motor is
mounted away from the hand piece and connected to it with a flexible shaft.
Because the motor is not in your hand, it is lighter, has less vibrations,
and is much easier to control.  The hand pieces come in a variety of sizes
and styles.  You can put in different collets and use some terrifyingly
large, nasty bits which will take off large areas of wood in seconds.
(Fingernails too, but don't ask how I know that.)  They cost more than a
Dremel -- I think I paid $315 for the last one which was the reversable
model and included 2 shafts and a thinner hand-piece.  (I have 2 Foredoms --
one for wood and one for stone.)  The basic unit comes with a foot pedal to
control the speed, which does take a bit of getting used to.  On the down
side, you do need to clean and grease the shaft every so often and the motor
does need to hang above the work surface so that the shaft isn't bent
sharply.  My first Foredom is 9 years old and has worked fine.  The only
problem I have had is I've broken a couple of shafts, but that was my
problem and not the machine's.  If you over stress the motor, the shaft
breaks before the motor burns out, but for cutting print plates, this
shouldn't ever happen.

And then there's the Gesswein.  Ahhh.... Think Rolls Royce of rotary tools.
It was developed for use in the electronics industry and is absolutely
wonderful for detail work.  The basic set-up is a control unit where you set
speed and direction of rotation.  You can attach upto 2 hand-pieces, which
come in an incredible array.  Each hand-piece has a small motor, but weighs
half of what a Dremel does and because it is well-balanced and has internal
vibration damping, there is no vibration.  It is also so quiet that you can
easily carve and talk with someone, and not have to raise your voice.  I
have two hand-pieces which max out at 15,000rpm and 55,000rpm.  The control
it gives you is incredible -- with the right bit, I can cut lines much finer
than the engraved lines on a dollar bill. And now the bad news -- the basic
unit is about $650 and each hand-piece is $200 or so, I think.  (I'm not
sure what the going prices are because I've had this one for about 8 years.)
The only other complaint is that you are limited to smaller bits -- it
cannot take the very large bits with 3/8 inch collets, so I still need my
Foredom.

Now, if you are looking for a Foredom or Gesswein, be wary of clones.  I've
know several people who have purchased units that look just like a Foredom
for about $180, but they ended up buying another one in a year because the
motor burned out that fast.  If you are interested in buying one, find a
carving supply store or a wood carving club and ask to try some different
rotary tools. Most carvers are more than happy to let you play with their
toys!

As for the fuzzy lines that several people have complained about, there's
three causes that spring to mind.  One is the wood.  Something like cedar is
notorious for stringiness, especially if it's not totally dried.  Maple,
cherry, and walnut should cut perfectly clean.

The second possibility is the speed of rotation and the direction.  The bit
needs to be rotating fairly quickly in the direction of the grain.  This is
one big advantage of having the speed controlled by a foot pedal -- you
develop a sense that with this wood it needs to rotate faster so you press a
bit harder.  With a control where you adjust the speed by hand, it's a lot
trickier to adjust the speed, especially if the wood has uneven grain.  As
for the grain, remember 99% of all planks are not cut parallel to the grain.
They tend to be off so that the grain "dives" into the wood.  If it's
difficult to cut from one direction but easier from the other, then it's the
grain.

And the last possibility is the bits are dull.  Dremel bits wear down
quickly.  I used to try to save money and buy their bits, but I ended up
throwing them out so fast that it cost more money than buying the good bits.
Even the more expensive ones, such as the diamond bits, do wear down over
time.

My bottom line of this is to buy quality.  If you don't like it after 6
months, there's always eBay!

LindaH


------------------------------

From: "Lee and Barbara Mason" <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:50:32 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17176] Re:   Baren Digest V18 #1736 

Thanks Jean, You get a gold star!
Barbara
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Eger Womack" <jeaneger@jeaneger.com>
To: <baren@ml.asahi-net.or.jp>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: [Baren 17174] Re: Baren Digest V18 #1736


> Barbara, I sent the "Fog" print to Steven Goddard at the University of
> Kansas Spencer print room many weeks ago.
> Jean Eger Womack
> e-mail: jeaneger@jeaneger.com
> http://www.jeaneger.com



------------------------------

From: "Maria Arango" <maria@mariarango.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 13:42:18 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17177] FW: Vitosha Cultural Center, Ann Arbor, Michigan 

Please see below for an oportunity for someone with more stripes than I
have.
Please reply directly to the gentleman in question as I have no information.
Maria

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Maria Arango
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
http://www.1000woodcuts.com
maria@mariarango.com
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kei Constantinov [mailto:kei@vitosha.org]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 8:43 PM
To: maria@mariarango.com
Subject: Vitosha Cultural Center, Ann Arbor, Michigan


Dear Printmakers,

Vitosha Cultural Center is located in an historic church complex on the U.
of M. campus in Michigan.  We have housing for artists, instructors and
other leaders in the printmaking community, as well as Blue Bird Gallery
and a formal concert hall with pipe organ and baby grand piano.  I am
presently setting up to teach book arts-related xylography, with metal type
on a Vandercook press.

Please let me know whether you are available to conduct a workshop, or
whether you know anyone who is competent to be an artist-in-residence here.

Visit our websites: www.bbonline.com & www.vitosha.org to see what we're
offering.  We look forward to hearing from you.



Kei Constantinov
Co-Proprietor
Vitosha Guest Haus
1917 Washtenaw Avenue
Ann Arbor, MI 48104
tel: (734) 741-4969
fax: (734) 741-4963
www.vitosha.org




------------------------------

From: FurryPressII@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:00:24 EST
Subject: [Baren 17178] Re: rotary toys 

On the subject of flex tools I don't use mine on wood cuts but do on wood 
engraving.  I currently using a flex shaft tool sold by Sep tools of Chicago 
They are a jewelry supply house that sells many tools used in engraving. Some 
of which are not avaible anywhere else.  I don't see the need for a rotary 
tool for wood cuts.  For the level of work used in a wood engraving the 
recharge dremel is a wonderful tool as you can use it anywhere. I went 
through three in ten years.  For the price (dremels are very cheap) the 
worked well on wood.  Lately I have been engraving corian and for that you 
need a much strong piece of equipment.  Sort of like in wood working cheaper 
brands of power tools work as well as professional ones but they don't last 
as long if used all the time.  A cheap drill will work in the short term as 
well as an expensive one.  Plus and mines for both tools depends on what you 
want to do with it and how much.  A dremal on the drill press thing they make 
is a good way to route a small wood engraving block a commercial drill press 
rougher is way too strong a tourque.  You worry about the block spinning out 
from your control on the strong machine. 

john center

------------------------------

From: slinders@attbi.com
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:57:25 -0600
Subject: [Baren 17179] Print Frames 

Julio, 

These frames are really excellent!  The 9-11 Prints, which are
breathtaking, look wonderful in them!  It was a great idea to
purchase them!  The show goes up tomorrow.  

Sharen

------------------------------

From: "April Vollmer" <april@aprilvollmer.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:46:26 -0500
Subject: [Baren 17180] Soft vs Sharp 

Barbara, you burn the (horse TAIL) bristles to SOFTEN them, not SHARPEN
them. When the brush is new the ends are cut blunt, so they make scratch
marks in the color. When you burn them you make them softer, they sort of
melt. Best is to turn a cast iron skillet upside down and press the brush
against the hot, flat bottom until it smells REAL bad. Then dip in water and
rub against dragon skin (or shark skin, if you are lucky enough to have it)!

I find shoe brushes sometimes work, not as well, but lots cheaper!

April


------------------------------

From: Charles Morgan <morgan@uvvm.uvic.ca>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 15:41:14 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17181] wood, papers 

Thanks to all, especially Mike and Graham, for recommendations on inks, 
papers, and woods. I checked locally in Victoria (Opus and Art World) for 
papers, and no one had what Graham recommended. There was a paper called 
Hanga paper (I forgot who made it), but it was about $19 a sheet ... too 
much for me to just play around with. So I picked up a few sheets of other 
stuff to try, both by hand and with a press. And for now (i.e., until boot 
camp) I will just play around with all those tubes of water color and 
linoblock printing ink I have lying about. Here in Victoria, Tools and 
Space carries a lot of hardwoods, including cherry and basswood. I bought a 
couple of pieces of 1 inch thick basswood (about 3/4 after planing), one 
was 7.5 inches wide and 4 feet long, and one was 11 inches wide and 4.5 
feet long; cost was $5.95 per board foot (Canadian), plus shop cost for the 
planing. So I will select an image or two and try some carving.

More on the MDF front ... I really like a lot of the art nouveau stuff, 
particularly many of the things by Verneuil ... to me his sense of design 
was fantastic. I have "appropriated" one of his images (relax ... no 
copyright) to try as a print. It will take only 3 colors. One color can be 
printed as a background, with the design being over printed in two colors. 
I have drawn the whole thing on 1/4 inch MDF. The main image (a stylized 
lizard) is outlined by the background color. So it can just be cut out 
using a jig saw. The two pieces can then be glued to separate blocks (I am 
using plywood for backing) and additional details carved on each piece. The 
background color will then show where the carving is done, and of course 
where the jigsaw cuts are made. My two blocks will contain the main image 
(lizard) on one and the surrounding material on the other, each block to be 
printed with a different color. This combination of jigsaw and carving will 
greatly simplify making the blocks. Yep, I could have used standard planks 
for the whole thing, and traditional carving for that matter, but the thin 
MDF just seemed ideally suited for this jigsaw/carving application. My new 
motto is going to be ... if it works, then just do it ....

Cheers ........ Charles


------------------------------

From: Mike Lyon <mikelyon@mlyon.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:53:18 -0600
Subject: [Baren 17182] EXCHANGE #12 is CLOSED !! 

ATTENTION PLEASE !!  THE EXCHANGE IS CLOSED.

I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for allowing me to coordinate 
Exchange #12.  I was thrilled to get to open up all the boxes today and 
meet all your prints for the first time!  This is an EXCELLENT exchange, 
with MANY "stand-out" prints in the portfolio!  WOW!  Some amazingly 
talented printers, some very gifted and accomplished artists, many prints 
evidencing your all around high level.  Twenty-six artists participated 
(and there's still the possibility that additional prints will arrive in 
tomorrow's mail).

Right now the prints are laid out neatly like sardines, nearly covering the 
big cherry wood table I made some years ago in anticipation of this 
EVENT!  I am going to collate the exchange in sign-up order and I have 
published a crude little colophon the same size as the prints.  It is 
laser-printed with a thumbnail of your print alongside the colophon 
information you submitted via the internet.

For one reason or another (severe illness, irresponsible mail service, 
terminal procrastination -- not necessarily in that order):

14. Dimitris Grammatikopulos
19. Murilo Pereira
25. Ruth Leaf
29. Kristine Alder

had signed up for, but were unable to participate in the exchange.

29. Kristine Alder wrote about ten days ago that her prints were completed 
and I expected to receive them Thursday of last week, but for some reason 
the prints have not arrived and I have been unable to get any response from 
her for the past week, so I am still hoping rather un-optimistically to see 
her prints tomorrow?

NOW, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ME ANY MORE PRINTS !!.  The exchange was past due 
more than three weeks ago and it is too late to mail prints to me at this 
point.  To those who signed up for this exchange but were waitlisted, I am 
truly sorry!  I did not realize that we would fall short of artists until 
it was too late.  I am so sorry that I was unable to offer you a place in 
the exchange.  Please sign up early for the next exchange -- it is a 
worthwhile experience!

And now --

g'bye!

Mike

Mike Lyon
mailto:mikelyon@mlyon.com
http://www.mlyon.com 

------------------------------

From: "Lee and Barbara Mason" <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:38:04 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17183] Re: Soft vs Sharp 

April,
Thanks for clarification....I sure knew it smelled bad. some things just
stay in your mind.
Barbara


> Barbara, you burn the (horse TAIL) bristles to SOFTEN them, not SHARPEN
> them. When the brush is new the ends are cut blunt, so they make scratch
> marks in the color. When you burn them you make them softer, they sort of
> melt. Best is to turn a cast iron skillet upside down and press the brush
> against the hot, flat bottom until it smells REAL bad. Then dip in water and
> rub against dragon skin (or shark skin, if you are lucky enough to have it)!>
> I find shoe brushes sometimes work, not as well, but lots cheaper!
>
> April
>
>



------------------------------

From: "Lee and Barbara Mason" <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:43:41 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17184] Fw: Position Annoucement 

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Burkhart" <icherus@earthlink.net>

Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 1:33 PM
Subject: Position Annoucement



> List Members,
>
> My department is currently seeking a qualified candidate for a
> printmaking/drawing position. I have included the position listing below.
> Please feel free to forward the listing on to anyone who you know thatmight
> be qualified and interested in such an opportunity. Deadline for application
> is March 28, 2002.

> Thanks so much,
> Ryan Burkhart
> Director, Flying Horse Editions
>
>

> > University of Central Florida seeks full-time, non-tenure earning
>>instructor
>> to teach 4 courses per semester in basic drawing, anatomy, lithography and
> > etching, pending available funding.  M.F.A. required.  Preference is for
> > candidate with a strong background in figurative and representational work,
> > both in their own and their student's work.  Salary to commensurate with
> > experience.  To apply send resume,  3 reference letters, 20 slides each of
> > personal and student's work to

> >Art Department
> >University of Central Florida
> >Orlando, Florida 32816-1342
> >by March 28.  Woman and other minorities
> > encouraged to apply. EO/AA.  UCF makes application material available for
> > public view.  Information about UCF at www.ucf.edu.


------------------------------

From: Graham <gscholes@woodblock.info>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:00:21 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17185] Ought Not 

To the people of America.

Your hockey team ought not to have laid the flag of another nation on the floor.

Your Girls hockey team did this which made Canadians mad... very mad.
It has been the talk here in Canada ever since this unacceptable action.

Has America has lost more than just a couple of hockey games.... ?????

Respectfully,

Graham A. Scholes 

------------------------------

From: "Jean Eger Womack" <jeaneger@jeaneger.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:11:18 -0800
Subject: [Baren 17186] Re:   Baren Digest V18 #1736 

Barbara, the hairs on the brushes that are singed and then scraped against
the sharkskin, or whatever you use intead of sharkskin, are not SHARPENED,
they are SPLIT.  It is SPLITTING HAIRS that makes them hold more ink.  
Jean E W
e-mail: jeaneger@jeaneger.com
http://www.jeaneger.com

------------------------------

End of Baren Digest V18 #1737
*****************************