Baren Digest Friday, 30 November 2001 Volume 17 : Number 1635 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: John and Jan Telfer Date: Thu, 29 Nov 01 23:43:56 -0000 Subject: [Baren 16274] Re: Soaking Brushes Dear Kent, Nice to hear from you and Graham of course with whom we have looooong conversations! I am also looking at my Bootcamp picture above my computer..... Yes, >You may recall that Jan (Boot Camp) was soaking her Hanga Bake >brushes ... these are the ones with the long handle and the hair is >bound with wire. According to Jan this is OKY DOKY as per her >teacher. I have soaked mine with no problems. On one of mine I did >make the mistake of pulling some hair out (I was impatient and in a >hurray at the time) and now it is bald. Well, I did quietly follow this up again with a number of my printmaking connections and yes, that was what I was told. The copper wire tightens around the swollen soaked duel or split wooden handles (half an hour at least before printing). This grips the hairs more tightly and so are less likely to come out and the waterbased paint is slurped up into the bristles.....this is what we were also told to do before we used our calligraphy brushes from the calligraphy mistro himself. These are very expensive brushes... I didn't need to burn and burnish them at Bootcamp either. I also thoroughly washed them as Graham said after using them and used that mild soap...as I do with my watercolour painting brushes all the time....and flick them dry by hitting them on my other hand. To dry them I have a board like Graham has with nails so that the hairs are facing downward and hanging free. I never leave them standing on their bristles. With my painting watercolour brushes I cut two grooves in opposite sides of a large yogurt or icecream container and lie the brushes across the top...or make yourself a little rack like I use for my calligraphy pens so that I don't have coloured blobs on my tablecloths!!!! I haven't had any trouble with my dual handle brushes. > >A month or so ago Dave made some important suggestions about the way >he uses limited amounts of water to clean his brushes. Maybe he will >post it again. I have to wash mine thoroughly because I use mine for all different colours as I have only one of each in different sizes for my hanga. But, then again I don't know everything! I need a "sugar-Daddy" so I can give up work and concentrate on my printing! Any offers? Jan. ------------------------------ From: John and Jan Telfer Date: Thu, 29 Nov 01 23:44:33 -0000 Subject: [Baren 16275] Re: Somerset Studio Magazine Somerset Studio Magazine - Paper Arts - Art Stamping - Letter Arts Gallery - Volume 11 (More than 800 Handcrafted Works of Art) Published by Stampingon & Company in America Somerset Studio is in Laguna Hills, California. You will be pleased to know that Baren Forum gets a mention on Page 48!! Two years ago I sent in an article on woodblock printing with 6 or 7 of my orginal 40 x 35 cm prints (twice magazine page size in inches!) and it has finally been printed!!! Two of the prints and a reverse shadow of another are not the ones I would have picked to illustrate my article, but I had no control over that!! Several of my faux postage and lino printed cards appear on pages 3, 91,107,122 (PB4) and no, I didn't pay to put them in there or "buy or bribe the company"! The magazine is available in Australia through the shops where crafty rubber stamps are sold so that is where you may get it in America too. That's my little bit of trivia for today!!! Jan Downunder in sunny Western Australia. ------------------------------ From: "April Vollmer" Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 11:04:18 -0500 Subject: [Baren 16276] RE: Baren Digest V17 #1632 FOO KWEE HORNG, yes, we had an opportunity to see some of those 'revolutionary' prints at the China show here at the Guggenheim in New York a few years ago. I am sorry I don't remember the names of the artists, but they showed books and posters from the 30's, mainly political in natutre, that had the bold compositions related to the graphic work of the Russian constructivists. I had never seen them before, a revelation that so much woodcut was being don in China. I was not sure if the prints were waterbase or oil base, though. I think I was surprised they were in oil, using the western approach. Is that correct? April Vollmer 174 Eldridge St, NYC 10002 www.aprilvollmer.com ------------------------------ From: Graham Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 08:12:02 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16277] Re: Somerset Studio Magazine Way to go Jan..... >That's my little bit of trivia for today!!! Not trivia when you get published. It is always a wonderful sense of accomplishment and your mind thinks 'have I made it to the big league of the published world' Damn tough to do. Congratulations... couldn't happen to a nicer person. Editors note: You meet a few people in this world that are special. Jan is one of them. Now I have gone and embarrassed her. You can meet Jan at.... http://members.home.net/woodblocks/2001wkspcasual.html bottom of the page.... Graham ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:31:05 -0600 Subject: [Baren 16278] Re: Chinese woodblock prints 11/29/2001 10:31:04 AM Hi Foo, I have a book on Chinese woodcuts from the 30's-40's...lot of social & war related images. All B&W, about 40-50 prints. Let me know if you are interested in seeing some of the images, perhaps I can scan and put online for you. regards, Julio ------------------------------ From: Wanda Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:30:58 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16279] Re: Chinese woodblock prints FOO KWEE HORNG wrote: > On a personal level, I > am currently doing a MA research in the development of woodcuts > in pre-war Singapore and will be helping the National University > of Singapore with an exhibtion of post-war woodcut prints (1950s) and April Vollmer wrote: > > FOO KWEE HORNG, yes, we had an opportunity to see some of those > 'revolutionary' prints at the China show here at the Guggenheim in New York > a few years ago. I am sorry I don't remember the names of the artists, but > they showed books and posters from the 30's, mainly political in natutre, Foo Kwee & April: I got to see that exhibit! It was fantastic - and I spent at least an hour in front of the black & white woodblock print wall! I went to NY as part of a group of painters at the local college, so I wasn't even doing woodblocks then. Two that stuck in my mind were one of the soldiers taking away a family's goat, and one of a man behind bars in jail - just his face and the bars. Small prints, but very strong in content and powerful images. The paintings & screens were very impressive in that show also. Huge in size & so different from what we usually see here. I will look forward to seeing some images from the Singapore University exhibition. Please keep us in mind! Wanda ------------------------------ From: James G Mundie Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 13:39:41 -0500 Subject: [Baren 16280] wax alternative If I might suggest another material readily at hand if you don't happen have any paraffin around: soap. As most bar soaps are a mixture of fats and waxes, it will achieve the same end as paraffin. My father had often soaped screws before inserting them into wood, as the reduction of friction made the screws goes in more speedily and also seemed to prevent splitting. The problem with using soap in that application is that the soap over time may become reactive with moisture in the air and cause the screw to corrode or work its way out of the wood. Using soap for carving should work fine, though. And as a nice side benefit if using a great deal of soap, all you hanga printers will work up quite a lather! James http://missioncreep.com/mundie/index.htm Mike Lyons said: >There's a nice, 'amateur' article in "Fine Woodworking" magazine >this month which applies here -- I just ran to find my copy, but >can't remember where I left the darned thing! Anyway, the author >used an electric drill to screw identical wood screws into hardwood >having first dipped them into various thread lubricants -- and rated >the lubricants based on how deeply the screw could be driven before >the drill locked up. Paraffin was more effective than no lubricant >at all, but was the least effective. ------------------------------ From: Graham Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 11:38:23 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16281] Re: wax alternative Good suggestion James. I had forgotten about that.... Just a word of caution. Make sure you wash the soap off if you are of the varnishing kind. I mean by that .... after I have finished carving I varnish my plate 50/50 Varnish/Solvent to protect the bare wood. With wax this is easily dissolved by the varnish. Where as with the soap it would/could present problems. Comes the added factor of waiting until the moisture is total dried from the plate before varnishing. Lather away, could this be construed as foaming at the mouth???? Graham >If I might suggest another material readily at hand if you don't happen >have any paraffin around: soap. > >As most bar soaps are a mixture of fats and waxes, it will achieve the >same end as paraffin. My father had often soaped screws before inserting >them into wood, as the reduction of friction made the screws goes in more >speedily and also seemed to prevent splitting. The problem with using >soap in that application is that the soap over time may become reactive >with moisture in the air and cause the screw to corrode or work its way >out of the wood. > >Using soap for carving should work fine, though. And as a nice side >benefit if using a great deal of soap, all you hanga printers will work >up quite a lather! > >James ------------------------------ From: Graham Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 13:24:24 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16282] New address Please note our new address gscholes@shaw.ca Effective immediately. Regards, Graham & Marnie Scholes ps We apologize to some who may have received this notice twice. You can blame it on poor housekeeping. ------------------------------ From: mail shaw Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:18:33 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16283] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 Hello Can you please forward the internet address for baren to me. My computer went for a walk and the address and fovouites part of my browser went with it. I can't find it again with my search engine. I would appreciate the help. Thanks Roger Lee Vernon BC Canada - ----- Original Message ----- From: "barebonesart" To: <> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 10:57 PM Subject: [Baren 16272] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 > Maria, > I got the same thing Graham did, nothing but red x's with IE. > Sharri > > ------------------------------ From: FurryPressII@aol.com Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 18:10:32 EST Subject: [Baren 16284] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 woodblock.com ------------------------------ From: Graham Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 19:30:46 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16285] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 Hi Roger.... my fellow Canuck. http://barenforum.org/ I am surprised that a search engine won't find that. I understand that the meta tag for that site is kept right up to date and the search engines boot it up the the head of the list. Regards Graham You enjoying the snow.... asks the guy from lotus land of green. >Hello >Can you please forward the internet address for baren to me. My computer >went for a walk and the address and fovouites part of my browser went with >it. I can't find it again with my search engine. I would appreciate the >help. Thanks >Roger Lee >Vernon BC Canada ------------------------------ From: Cate-Earthlink Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 21:48:24 -0600 Subject: [Baren 16286] Snake Exchange Addresses Please Would someone please make an honest woman of me and send me the list of people involved in the snake print exchange? I e-mailed Pete but did not hear back from him. I suspect that I am going to be the last snake to slither through the mail. Thank you, Cate Pfeifer cate108@earthlink.net ------------------------------ From: Wanda Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 20:02:33 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16287] Re: baren's address FurryPressII@aol.com wrote: > > woodblock.com Nope.....that is David Bull's web site address! Baren's offical address is: http://barenforum.org/ Welcome to all the new subscribers! Wanda ------------------------------ From: slinders@home.com Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:07:15 -0600 Subject: [Baren 16288] Re: Snake Exchange Addresses Please I'm forwarding the list to Cate. Sharen Cate-Earthlink wrote: > > Would someone please make an honest woman of me and send me the list of > people involved in the snake print exchange? I e-mailed Pete but did not > hear back from him. > > I suspect that I am going to be the last snake to slither through the mail. > > Thank you, > > Cate Pfeifer > cate108@earthlink.net ------------------------------ From: "Arye Saar" Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 07:57:45 +0200 Subject: [Baren 16289] Re: wax alternative And there is another exceptionally good material: plain candles. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Arye Saar Kibbutz Degania Bet Jordan Valley 15130 Israel E-mail: saar1@degania-b.org.il - ----- Original Message ----- From: "James G Mundie" To: Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 8:39 PM Subject: [Baren 16280] wax alternative > If I might suggest another material readily at hand if you don't happen > have any paraffin around: soap. > > As most bar soaps are a mixture of fats and waxes, it will achieve the > same end as paraffin. My father had often soaped screws before inserting > them into wood, as the reduction of friction made the screws goes in more > speedily and also seemed to prevent splitting. The problem with using > soap in that application is that the soap over time may become reactive > with moisture in the air and cause the screw to corrode or work its way > out of the wood. > > Using soap for carving should work fine, though. And as a nice side > benefit if using a great deal of soap, all you hanga printers will work > up quite a lather! > > James > http://missioncreep.com/mundie/index.htm > > Mike Lyons said: > > >There's a nice, 'amateur' article in "Fine Woodworking" magazine > >this month which applies here -- I just ran to find my copy, but > >can't remember where I left the darned thing! Anyway, the author > >used an electric drill to screw identical wood screws into hardwood > >having first dipped them into various thread lubricants -- and rated > >the lubricants based on how deeply the screw could be driven before > >the drill locked up. Paraffin was more effective than no lubricant > >at all, but was the least effective. > ------------------------------ From: Legreenart@cs.com Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 01:23:04 EST Subject: [Baren 16290] Hand-Pulled Prints If you are interested in entering a juried show, which prints a catalogue with images of all work chosen for the exhibition, which has gotten regular press coverage, and is held in a pretigious contemporary art gallery, check out Hand-Pulled Prints X prospectus. You can email me for a copy or go to our site, http://www.stonemetal-press.com If you have tried to print a prospectus for Hand-Pulled Prints X from our website, and it wasn't working, please visit again. Our volunteer finally found time to help us find the mistake, and the page is working. Meredith Dean is our juror this year, and Dan Welden is giving a special Solarplate prize. All artists will get a copy of the catalogue, which will have images of all the exhibited prints. This catalogue is also sent to museum libraries and collectors. If you would like me to email you a prospectus, send me an email request, and I will be glad to send you one. Yours, Le Green Stonemetal Press Email: legreenart@cs.com http://www.stonemetal-press.com ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V17 #1635 *****************************