Baren Digest Thursday, 29 November 2001 Volume 17 : Number 1634 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Colleen Corradi" Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 01:14:06 +0100 Subject: [none] HI Maria, thanks for letting me know about the "https". I didn't know about that. I am always a little uncertain when sending money through the web but I trust paypal since I have been using it for some time and nothing ever happened (I still keep my fingers crossed though) Colleen ------------------------------ From: "Bill H Ritchie Jr" Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 16:44:00 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16263] Re: The guidelines Julio asked the rhetorical, ever-occuring question we all get: "What is the difference between intaglio prints, lithographs and relief prints?" And then explained his ideas. Now, here's what I taught in school. I told the students there are two broad categories--impact and non-impact. Which mean that a print got made by physical contact of an inked matrix to paper or something. Photography, by comparison, did not use contact; everything was done with magic light and magic chemicals. Then some smart student said, "Photons hit, too." So I flunked her. (just kidding) I ignored her and went to the other category, impact, and said there are four ways to print: relief planographic stencil intaglio Then, when she came back with, "Then what about etching and engraving?" And then I'd say, "There are hundreds--maybe thousands of ways to MAKE a plate, but only four ways to PRINT a plate," and I repeated those words--relief, planographic, stencil, intaglio. By then, most of the students were asleep again. Actually the story has a happy ending. The illusive creative process winds its way in and around printing and platemaking. Also, the system allows for division of labor. One person can be the creative person--even working on flat plates (yielding those paintings mistakenly called monoprints). It's a publisher's paradise. No end to platemaking techniques, really. It sure makes writing a book on printmaking easier if you just write about printing. I doubt if one book could contain all the ways to MAKE plates (matrixes). But a normal-sized book CAN communicate all four PRINTING processes, including pictures. Now, how about my favorite non-impact printing process, the DVD that could do the job? (I had to plug that). Bill H. Ritchie, Jr 500 Aloha #105 Seattle WA 98109 (206) 285-0658 Professional: www.seanet.com/~ritchie Virtual Gallery and E-Store: www.myartpatron.com First Game Portal: www.artsport.com ------------------------------ From: Graham Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 17:36:48 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16264] Re: another website Ok so here is the feedback. Ok Graham I think we (myself and other VLUG members) have figured it out... It appears that the web server has either been configured incorrectly or an odd translation (URI) problem is occurring. The reason some browsers show the resulting page correctly while others do not has to do with how the browser in question deals with error codes. What is happening is that the server is responding with a 404 error and then sending the data (gifs) anyway. So it appears that IE (for Mac only) doesn't like this situation at all. While Netscape and many other browsers ignore the error, sorta. So Maria does not use a Mac.... Hummmmmmm (<: >>Your Mac is malfunctioning, Graham ;-o >>I use IE > >Both computers!!! I tried it on Marns and same thing. >I wonder, but doubt that it is a Mac thing. >Nooooo it couldn't be a mac thing. >They are like me....Perfect > >Hummmmm I will investigate through some gurus here. >>http://www.philaprintshop.com/pps.html >A wealth of info, colored engravings in some of the galleries. ------------------------------ From: "David Stones" Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:48:50 +0900 Subject: [Baren 16265] Re: Soaking brushes Dear Kent and All, Below is a copy of the post I sent in October, hope it is some help. I still think that this brush soaking (and for 20 minutes?) seems the best way to either get too much too much moisture when brushing the pigment on and the best way to shorten brush (wood) life... Anyhow, each to his or her own. Quote (with comment by Dave B that began my post: >And there are some people (maybe Dave Stones will...... >don't wash their brushes at all.... Not quite true but I don't wash them thoroughly until the end of a run and just "rinse" them similar to how Dave B said. If there's a gap of a day in printing, they get put in the sun to dry out - not too fast though. I've also got five brush sets for each of the six major colours I use which cuts out a lot of work and washing. That said, my brushes are no show-pieces and in various states of "repair"- how they get the pigment down is their judge of usefulness though. One thing, I certainly do NOT soak them. The amount of moisture is brought up to speed in a few minutes... before use. As my printing days have decreased, with sometimes a month between use, some brushes are leaving bristles on the blocks. Rot, and wood shrinkage, have made two of them ready for the bin but as one is large and only used for white, it may escape... just bit longer. Dave S (Ishita) ------------------------------ From: Mike Lyon Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 20:48:06 -0600 Subject: [Baren 16266] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 At 08:54 AM 11/29/01 +0900, you wrote: >From: "G. Wohlken" >Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:51:35 -0500 >Subject: [Baren 16250] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1632-- wax > >Graham, the wax idea is something I've not heard before. What is the >principle behind a "stab" into wax to make the tool work better? I've used >bees wax when trying to stiffen a piece of thread that needs to go into a >small needle's eye, but how does wax help a tool to cut into wood better. >It seems sharpening it is what you would want to do, or is the wax another >way of honing. And when you say "stab", do you mean jab the tool into it >rather than drawing it back like in honing? > >Gayle > > > > If you are having difficulty carving and want your knive/chisels > > to cut more easily it can help by having a small piece of wax > > (the canning type which comes in 2 x 4 inch size - 6 to a package) > > beside your bench. A quick stab into the wax every 3 or four cuts > > and your tool to slip beautifully through the wood or linoleum. > > Hi, Gayle (and Graham, too!). The principle here is to reduce the friction between the side (not the edge -- you do that by sharpening!) of the blade and the work. There's a nice, 'amateur' article in "Fine Woodworking" magazine this month which applies here -- I just ran to find my copy, but can't remember where I left the darned thing! Anyway, the author used an electric drill to screw identical wood screws into hardwood having first dipped them into various thread lubricants -- and rated the lubricants based on how deeply the screw could be driven before the drill locked up. Paraffin was more effective than no lubricant at all, but was the least effective. The most effective were the commercial products made for the purpose. I bet they'd be most effective in cutting, too. I'll try to dig up the article and let you know exactly what was tried. Mike mikelyon@mlyon.com http://www.mlyon.com ------------------------------ From: "Tyrus Clutter" Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 20:28:51 -0700 Subject: [Baren 16267] Wax I think this is the same principle used with metal work. This will take us slightly into intaglio, but it is still releated. I get saws and files and bits and things from a jewlery makers catalog. They suggest a special waxy substance be applied to these things when working the metals (to reduce what they call "chatter"). It does help out a lot and my saw blades have lasted a lot longer when cutting up my metal plates for certain intaglio work. I can see that the same would apply for cutting wood. TyRuS >Graham, the wax idea is something I've not heard before. What is the >principle behind a "stab" into wax to make the tool work better? I've used >bees wax when trying to stiffen a piece of thread that needs to go into a >small needle's eye, but how does wax help a tool to cut into wood better. >It seems sharpening it is what you would want to do, or is the wax another >way of honing. And when you say "stab", do you mean jab the tool into it >rather than drawing it back like in honing? > >Gayle > ------------------------------ From: "bemason" Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 21:14:19 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16268] Re: Security/Baren Mall Colleen, Anyone who wants to send money to the mall via pay pal can do so, just send in your order and hit "mail check", then send me an email that you are paying by paypal and send the money to bemason@concentric.net Our server is secure, a very large company handles it. It sends me the first half of the visa number and I have to go to the site of the server to get the rest and I need a password to pick it up. There is virtually no chance of anyone who is not authorized getting the number, so everyone can relax! It is as safe as life can be this day and age! Best to all, Barbara (Mall Manager and overworked printmaker) I was just about to order a case for the exchange # 12 when I noticed that the online payment was not through a secure server. Why don't you consider adding paypal to make credit card payments easier to manage? I just don't feel like putting my credit card numbers there, easily detectable by certain software, so I would rather use larger companies that offer secure payments. Paypal could be a solution. Colleen Corradi http://www.monoprints.com ------------------------------ From: Pgiclas@aol.com Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:24:49 EST Subject: [Baren 16269] Re: TV In addition to the bad smell, oily surface, etc., kerosene is a carcinogen. ------------------------------ From: Graham Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:15:04 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16270] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 I don't think it is necessary to chase for the article Mike. It sounds like you did not see my posting the Gayle's question.... Here it is just in case: Jab. Stick it in, are other words. The principle is the get a small amount of wax on the blade so that it acts as a lubricant and the knife or chisel slides easier as it cuts the wood. You can use bees wax but I like the pure paraffin (Marnie just informed me ...another instance where I don't know everything about everything (<:) It has nothing to do with honing or sharpening. However always keep you tools sharp and nicely honed. It, I thought explains the procedure and reason for the wax job. Incidentally the paraffin wax technique that allows ease of cutting is something I learned 50 years ago as a samplemaker in the packaging industry. I have used it in dozens of ways since and always worked great. Oh, by the way the best slip product is a commercial printing spray that is silicon base that is used on lithographic presses to prevent adhesion of the ink to blankets. That enough........ Graham >Hi, Gayle (and Graham, too!). The principle here is to reduce the >friction between the side (not the edge -- you do that by >sharpening!) of the blade and the work. > >There's a nice, 'amateur' article in "Fine Woodworking" magazine >this month which applies here -- I just ran to find my copy, but >can't remember where I left the darned thing! Anyway, the author >used an electric drill to screw identical wood screws into hardwood >having first dipped them into various thread lubricants -- and rated >the lubricants based on how deeply the screw could be driven before >the drill locked up. Paraffin was more effective than no lubricant >at all, but was the least effective. The most effective were the >commercial products made for the purpose. I bet they'd be most >effective in cutting, too. I'll try to dig up the article and let >you know exactly what was tried. > >Mike > >mikelyon@mlyon.com >http://www.mlyon.com ------------------------------ From: barebonesart Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:48:16 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16271] Re: reduction wood engraving Graham, I am not aware of any websites, but I believe it is Emily Barronian from Tacoma who has a marvelous little gem of a reduction wood engraving (that answers Dan's question) of several marbles. There are many colors involved - she has a landscape of Fall colors which is another image I recall. I believe it is a reduction block, also. She must have the eyes of an eagle to be able to do that kind of work. If I can remember when I get to the nwpc office Friday I will try to scan one of the images and jpeg it to you. It depends on how busy we get and how much my poor addled brain can hold, whether that detail will remain, let alone get acted upon. Sharri ------------------------------ From: barebonesart Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:57:19 -0800 Subject: [Baren 16272] Re: Baren Digest V17 #1633 Maria, I got the same thing Graham did, nothing but red x's with IE. Sharri ------------------------------ From: FOO KWEE HORNG Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 19:44:38 +0800 (WST) Subject: [Baren 16273] Chinese woodblock prints Dear Bill, It was interesting reading your comments on the 'ten bamboo studio'. There is a printmaking society in Singapore but very few of the members actually produce woodcuts (perhaps only myself!?). Some secondary schools are doing prints but again not so much woodcuts but more linocuts. I am hoping to promote it and has since introduced them to my students. On a personal level, I am currently doing a MA research in the development of woodcuts in pre-war Singapore and will be helping the National University of Singapore with an exhibtion of post-war woodcut prints (1950s) in April next year. They are mainly social commentary prints like those of 1930s-1940s China. I'll try to put some of the images on-line so that dear Baren members might be able to see some old Singapore prints. Anyone visiting Singapore during that time might want to come view the exhibition. Do contact me. ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V17 #1634 *****************************