Baren Digest              Monday, 26 February 2001      Volume 14 : Number 1336


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From: Cucamongie@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:18:28 EST
Subject: [Baren 13630] Japan Society, monoprint/monotype 

Hi all, the workshop at the Japan Society with April Vollmer was indeed a 
great experience, and I'm always impressed with April's knowledgeable and 
generous teaching.  I picked up a few new tips by watching her cut and print, 
also -- after watching her cut kentos and helping 20 students cut theirs, I 
feel a lot more confident about this! :)  If any of you have the opportunity 
to study with April (and believe me, she's getting around to different parts 
of the world these days), go for it!  
As for monotype/monoprint, apparently in different parts of the world these 
terms are interpreted differently.  Susan Rostow 
(http://www.waterbasedinks.com, I think!) has a good explanation of (at least 
the American way) of interpreting these terms.  I forget which is which, one 
is when the image is one of a kind and not repeatable, and the other is when 
at least part of the image is repeatable - anyway, check her website (I would 
have but my computer is being very slow today!)
best wishes
Sarah

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From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:46:02 -0600
Subject: [Baren 13631] Re: more snakes are here...... 02/25/2001 10:45:51 AM 

Another bunch of critters have made their way to the snake's den after the
necessary quarantine period. Looks like all but
one survived the trip up north.

http://www.skokienet.org/bandits/jcrstuff/snakes/

Thanks Wanda, Graham, Georgia, Peter & Amanda.

Julio
ps. Looks like we have more than 2/3 of the snakes in now, with only 23 of
us still holding on to our precious beauties. If I don't
have an active link for you on my list is because I did not get a print
yet. For those that may have sent really early on, please double check your
mailing list. I need them by May so I can create the exhibit display.


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From: "janet" <janet@tapawingostudio.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:33:00 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13632] Monotype/Monoprint 

Hi Sunnffunn!

I noticed your request as to definitions of monotypes and monoprints.  I =
think we should do away with the word "plate" as this gets too =
confusing.  A "matrix", instead, is something that holds an image.  This =
could be wood, metal, glass, plexiglass, mylar, etc.  How a "matrix" can =
either be "fixed" or "not fixed".  Fixed matrices (plural for matrix) =
would include woodcuts, etchings, lithographs etc. that could be =
impressed or transferred to paper or other support more than once.  =
These images could be editioned or could be printed once (but then why =
would you go to all that work to cut a woodcut?).  However, if you =
printed some from this fixed matrix, you could add collage elements, =
handcolouring, pastel, etc. which would make each so call "fixed" image =
unique.  Each one of these could be referred to as a monoprint or a =
"unique print" in an unique edition.  In the first case, you would write =
1/1 for a monoprint and in the second case you could write UE 1/4 for =
the first print you handmanipulated in the unique edition.  I find that =
the first method is rather deceptive for the public in that the 1/1 =
makes one think that this is the only print like it (and actually it is) =
but the other "monoprints" from the fixed matrix may also look   SIMILAR =
BUT NOT IDENTICAL because you used different collages, handcolouring, =
etc., yet they would also be designated as 1/1.

The "not fixed" matrix such as using watercolours on mylar or oils on =
glass, etc. to transfer to paper would be monotypes since the pigment or =
inks would be lifted from the matrix which holds it until transferred.  =
However, some pigment may still be left and the artist could rework this =
to make another monotype which would, in the least be  lighter than the =
first one.  Quite often, I feel that monotypes cross the threshold into =
"mixed media" since the artist has changed it so much and added so much =
handcolouring, collaging, etc. that it becomes similar to mixed media =
pieces.  I would not even number it in this case, because printmaking =
was a small part in forming the total image.  We don't number paintings.

I think we could discuss these definitions until the cows come home =
(around 4:00) but ultimately, the artist must use what she/he feels the =
public must know about the work and keeps the ethics of printmaking in a =
most positive light.

Those are my thoughts.  I don't participate much, but I enjoy reading =
the discussions!  It's a great group of kindred spirits.

Janet Stahle-Fraser
www.tapawingostudio.on.ca=20

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From: James G Mundie <jimandkatemundie@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 15:52:28 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13633] studio damp 

Regarding the recent discussions of humidity problems in the studio:

Most large hardware stores (those in the US should try their local Home
Depot, Builder's Square, or whatever) carry a material like the stuff
Ishita mentioned.  It goes by various trade names, but basically comes in
paint-can sized bucket that one lets stand in a wet area to absorb the
moisture.  The pebble-ish mix can be re-used by heating or spread out in
the sun to dry.  Generally, these buckets are used by people with damp
basements and such.  A couple of these around a damp studio, or placed in
a closet might help the humidity problem; however, a dehumidifier will do
a much better job.  

When I was a kid we had a fairly damp basement owing to an underground
stream that ran through our property.  We would run a dehumidifier to
take the extra moisture out of the air and it did an amazingly effective
job.  Cardboard boxes stayed dry, and my father's tools stayed free of
rust.  Our particular model had a 5-gallon reservoir that we would empty
once or twice a week.  During particularly wet times we would attach a
hose to a reservoir so that it continuously dumped the water into an
outside drain or sump pump.

For those of you with the opposite problem, a humidifier will help
balance the equation.

James Mundie,
Philadelphia USA
http://www.missioncreep.com/mundie/index.htm

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From: "April Vollmer" <april@aprilvollmer.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 21:34:10 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13634] Paper from Plants charset="iso-8859-1" 

Washi is Wa=Japanese Shi=Paper

THE book is Barrett, Timothy. Japanese Papermaking, Weatherhill, Inc., New
York, 1993.

It's a great book, and I read it a few years ago, so I forget all the
details. Kozo is the fiber from 'broussentia papyrifera', the PAPER
Mulberry, a common weed, which is an entirely different GENUS from the
fruiting mulberry. I'm not sure which one the silkworms eat. They are
growing it in Arizona I think, it is not very hardy.

Gampi is Wikstroemia, and Mitsumata is Edgeworthia Chrysanthia, an early
blooming ornamental shrub.

April
www.aprilvollmer.com



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From: "eli griggs" <eli.griggs@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 21:45:41 -0500
Subject: [Baren 13635] Re: Paper from Plants charset="iso-8859-1" 

Hi there:

Have you used any North American made Mulberry papers or any of the other
'quality' fibres?

Is there paper made here that you would recommend as an alternative to
Japanese papers for hand printers?

Eli Griggs
Charlotte N.C.
USA


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From: "John and Michelle Morrell" <jmmorrell@gci.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 19:30:15 -0900
Subject: [Baren 13636] Dehumdifiers charset="iso-8859-1" 

I have found powered, mechanical dehumidifiers somewhat effective.  The
mildew  low in closets and places with poor air circulation decreased or
disappeared.  In Sitka I wore one out and left the second in the house we
sold.  The motivation for buying one was that the wood flooring my daughter
and I had laid had begun to buckle, despite being seasoned outside on a
covered deck for a month (of rainy weather).

I could maintain humidity in a small house between 65 and 85 percent.  They
work similar a refrigerator and condense water which collects in a bucket
you must pour out--how often depends on the current humidity.  I poured out
usually about a gallon a day.  They are noisey, ugly, consume energy and
generate heat.  I was very fond of mine.   I bought it through a True-Value
hardware store, so I imagine any hardware store in the States could order
one, if a person wanted one.  If your humidity is under 85 percent, it
doesn't seem worth the bother.

<^><^><^><^><^><^>
    Michelle Morrell
   jmmorrell@gci.net
<^><^><^><^><^><^>


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From: "laurie ramona herboldsheimer" <lrherboldsheimer@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 06:58:45 
Subject: [Baren 13637] Hello 

<html><DIV>
<P>Hello everyone,</P>
<P>I have been receiving the Barendigest for about a month and am finally saying hello!&nbsp; Last week my knives and sharpening stones arrived from the Baren Mall and I did my first cutting yesterday, using a piece of birch plywood from a woodworking store.&nbsp; Made the mistake of trying to cut an intricate drawing of some narcissus flowers (!) even though everyone says to start with something simple and after an hour or so of splintering wood, I started over with a looser drawing directly onto the board.&nbsp; Now I'm ready to print.</P>
<P>I can't seem to access a lot of the encyclopedia and need a little info on printing.&nbsp; I have a tube of concentrated sumi ink, the kind used for brush drawings.&nbsp; It is thick but not pasty.&nbsp; Can this be used , and if so, how can I best apply it?&nbsp;( I've seen references to both brushes and rollers on the site.) Can&nbsp;my ink be thickened with something that can be easily found?&nbsp; I'm trying to postpone another supply order until I know what I really need.&nbsp;</P>
<P>I love the Barenforum and the other related sites.&nbsp; Have corresponded with Maria and Barbara Mason and Wanda offline and everyone has been so friendly and helpful.&nbsp; My last and only experience with woodcut was in high school in the 70's, a little portrait of Alexander Solzhenitzen.&nbsp; I found a print of it a few months ago and remembered how much I loved doing it.&nbsp; Did printmaking in college but we never did woodcuts.&nbsp;</P>
<P>Today I spent some time looking at the print gallery and really appreciating all the different approaches to cutting the blocks.&nbsp; Glad I'm finally cutting and am a lurker no more!</P>
<P>Laurie </P>
<P>Leominster, Massachusetts&nbsp; (moved out here recently after 17 years in Somerville, MA)</P></DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>

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End of Baren Digest v14 #1336
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