Baren Digest Saturday, 6 January 2001 Volume 14 : Number 1276 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ From: "Bridget Henry" Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 15:45:54 -0800 Subject: [Baren 12846] Re: Baren Digest v14 #1275 Hi Stephanie Walters, are you still living in Santa Cruz? Zarina was one of my teahers as well as Paul Rangell. I am still printing in the UCSC Printshop what a gorgeous place to work! Bridget Henry __________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: GWohlken Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 18:51:08 -0500 Subject: [Baren 12848] Re: Baren Digest v14 #1275 Bea, when you say you print on moist paper with no paste and no sizing on the paper and get the results you want, can any paper work? Could kitakata paper work? I don't believe kitakata is sized. * * * Julio, are you doing hanga on a press? I didn't think we could do that successfully. * * * I'm loving these daily snakes inching their way in. I'm still working out the design on mine and find the small size a strangely difficult challenge for a snake which is long. But curled is the way snakes rest, so... * * * Good post, Maria, using the hotel analogy. So much good information from each other here on Baren. A day without Baren is a day without inspiration, information, sunshine where it's gray, and once in a while a little joke. Gayle ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 17:14:08 -0600 Subject: [Baren 12849] Re: Taking the Chinese Plunge 01/05/2001 07:31:37 PM Bea, maybe it's the combination of cheap inks and no paste that created my problems....I reread the articles on the chinese methods and find it very interesting, would like to try it out.....I guess the big difference is the unsized paper and the possible interplay of colors mixes ? Ray, Bea.....do you guys find the end result different than regular japanese hanga ? I mean can you tell the difference as to which print came from each ? thanks...Julio ------------------------------ From: "Jean Eger" Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 18:51:16 -0800 Subject: [Baren 12850] supplies for students charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Greg, How about sharing the information you get with the list? In my search for multicultural printmaking techniques, I've taken several workshops on Japanese style printmaking. Tomoko Murakami gives workshops in the Bay Area constantly. She teaches us to use the rice paste that comes in the tube from McLains, plus pigment plus water, or some kind of water-based paint, probably student watercolor, I don't remember now. However, rice paste is not hard to make if you follow the recipe in the Walter Phillips book on Dave's web site. The secret is to pour the boiling water in all at once. In Tomoko's workshop, we used Shina plywood from McLain's, but you could use birch plywood just as well (watch out for warping). We painted the pigment on the block with ordinary brushes, not the special, expensive, hand-bound Japanese brushes that McLain's sells, or similar flat-bottomed stencil brushes. We were not looking for precision, a la Dave Bull traditional style, but rather a looser, more spontaneous aesthetic, if you will. It's one step up from rolling up the plate with Speedball ink, but a very big step. I think Power Grip tools are very good and sharp. The paper used was all different kinds, as I recall. My research into multicultural printmaking showed me that immigrants to this country are anxious to absorb and assimilate Western culture. They are not as interested in Asian techniques as we are. However, the non-toxicity of it is very important, I think. Also the valuing of the culture of the old country. In San Francisco they teach those techniques but they do not label them as coming from any particular culture. Of course it is difficult not to label Chinese Brush Painting, because that's what it is called. I, mself, saw a beautiful print in a show from Vietnam, which was called a clay print. So recently I have been making clay prints, in which I draw on a clay slab which has dried, then it is bisqued. Then I seal it with a very thin layer of acrylic matt medium (mixed with water). Otherwise it will totally soak up and instantly dry the ink. The line produced this way is really pretty and irregular. I printed it on damp Japanese paper with Speedbal inks which worked pretty well. I think it would work as well or better with home made ink plus rice paste. It's interesting because the clay slabs break easily, so then they are fired separately and pieced back together later. I was thinking about how I could make a really large print using clay, because I need to push the size of my prints up a little bit. The little block prints we do for Baren exchanges are wonderful studies for larger prints. I had a funny experience printing my snakes. There were so many to make that I used my little proof press to print type-high linoleum. However, the block did not go through the press well, but jammed on the roller. I was completely mystified until my mechanic husband pointed out that the stuff the linoleum was mounted on could have swolen with the water I had washed it off with. I had set it out to dry upright on one end--so it was sitting in a puddle of water, swelling up. If we run out of things to talk about on Baren, we could always discuss paper sizing vs. no sizing. I don't know how Bea gets such a good flat color out of unsized paper and no paste. Do you want to share your secret, BEa? Jean Eger-Womack http://www.jeaneger.com ------------------------------ From: Cynthia Wilson Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 19:37:45 -0800 Subject: [Baren 12851] Re: Lino Regarding warming up linoleum....I've been putting the unmounted stuff on top of a heating pad. Works great! Cyndy ------------------------------ From: b.patera@att.net Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 07:27:51 +0000 Subject: [Baren 12852] Clay prints Jean, Have you posted any of your clay prints anywhere? Would love to see them. Something I've been meaning to try (after I finish the snake and exchange 8).... saw some done once using leather hard clay... it was incised and inked or possibly inked and then incised. Will have to try your bisque method too. Barbara P. ------------------------------ From: BBlitstein@netscape.net (Bonnie Blitstein) Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 04:33:16 -0500 Subject: [Baren 12853] Re: Baren Digest v14 #1254 Dear Gillyin That was a nice and passionate essay about Lino...I love lino I like buying a huge piece like a small carpet and laying it out on the floor and being in the work so to speak. I've worked on pieces 30" x 40" and I sorta have to sit on the floor and carve it....very absorbing What is also wonderful is to take many of strips and carve 'em, print 'em and then place the prints to together in a large mural. I work in oil base inks for relief, although Manhattan Graphic Center where I do my printmaking is a non-toxic shop, but with lino its hard to get the intensity of line with water-based inks...I like rolling the ink onto the large linos with a roller nearly as large as the piece.... I am very much into very crisp prints...I get nuts with smudge and fingerprints....I love the image to shine out of the beautiful paper with out any thing distracting from the printed image.. I like the knife carving suggestions very practical. Bonnie - -- www.geocities.com/terrificartist ------------------------------ From: Ray Hudson Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 06:02:29 -0500 Subject: [Baren 12854] "Chinese" method Julio--I certainly am no expert on Chinese woodblock printing. With the size of China, its ancient history, its vast number of artists, I suspect there are great variations in the art there. (The recent link we had to an exhibit of Chinese woodcuts had no examples of this "water printing" or shui-yin.) I suspect a woodcut done with the "water printing" technique does appear different from traditional Japanese hanga. For one thng, I don't think you will find the extremely fine outlines present. The images are usually composed of larger plains of color and the prints are frequently done with far less blocks.(In part this is due to the scarcity of good wood, much of the ginkgo having been burned for charcoal production during the Cultural Revolution.) I wish I could find a site on the web that illustrated Lu Fang's work, but so far I haven't. It's breath-taking and frequently shows the grain of the wood; the color washes across the paper. But much of this is due, I suspect, because of his own nature as an artist, his particular vision of things. And, of course, there are probably exceptions to everything I've just said among folks who use the "water printing" technique! Ray ------------------------------ From: Legreenart@cs.com Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 06:54:44 EST Subject: [Baren 12855] Re: Baren San Antonio Snake and Dragon The Snake and Dragon exchange opening tonight was well attended, with some delighted reactions from many visitors. It was a warm and pleasant evening. I am too keyed up to sleep, so I am catching up on the digest, and thought I should say "Congratulations to the artists who had snake prints to me on time for this opening. I put up a sign crediting Baren, (Thanks to Carol), and included a statement that the show was a work in progress, with more prints coming for next monthes First Friday opening. I am finally sleepy now, so I'll update later. Yawning happily, Le Green Stonemetal Press Email: legreenart@cs.com Website: www.stonemetalpress.homepage.com ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest v14 #1276 *****************************