Baren Digest              Friday, 10 November 2000      Volume 13 : Number 1210


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: SylTaylor@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 06:50:24 EST
Subject: [Baren 12047] witches hammer, belfast, sinks... 

Thanks everyone for the feedback regarding a Belfast Baren show.  I'll keep 
you posted.  It was recommended that I check out having this be a touring 
exhibition that could hang in Republic of Ireland as well... I'll check out 
Dublin etc.  I can tell I'll need plenty of advise from those of you who have 
done this before!

<< As someone who is also prone to powerful depressing work, what is the
 'infamous witches hammer' you refer to? Sounds interesting.
  >>

Gerald, 
I'm sorry it took so long to answer your question about the witches hammer 
AKA The Malleus Malificarum.  It was the book/legal document used by the 
inquisitors in the European witch trials.  Just unbelievable...until you 
start looking at certain contemporary practices involving women healers, 
midwives, etc... gets pretty scary.

Check out these URLS :

http://www.klammeraffe.org/~brandy/hexen/MalleusMalificarum/
http://www.malleusmaleficarum.org/
http://www.rci.rutgers.edu/~jup/witches/books/mal_index.html

Kat,
Congrats on getting your work in the American Print Alliance show. I'm happy 
to say that I also have a print in the On/Off/Over the Edge exhibition --the 
'Kitchen Sink at Clandeboye'.  This has been a lucky print for me as its also 
in the 'Simple Printmaking' book, and in an Irish touring exhibition.  Guess 
I should do more sinks 
;-) 

Cheers,
Sylvia




------------------------------

From: Ray Hudson <rhudson@together.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 06:56:36 -0500
Subject: [Baren 12048] Re: ?????? 

 Dan--finding a publisher is, I think, much harder than writing a book.  You
 might try checking in one of the trade publications for writers (The
 Writer's Market).  It's often more rewarding to try to locate a regional
 publisher of small books and talk with them about possibilities.   Good
 luck!

------------------------------

From: GWohlken <blueman@pantek.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 10:29:02 -0500
Subject: [Baren 12049] Re: Baren Digest V13 #1209 

Dan, as for publishing, had you thought of doing your own?  I loved when
I did mine as I had my own hand in the project from start to finish. 
But, of course, you are looking at limited editions and that's probably
not what you are after.  Have you checked the Artist's Market?

Gayle




------------------------------

From: heather nichols <pinefeather@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 08:28:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Baren 12050] freelance 

dan dew - 

Are you thinking for freelance work?  I would
recommend the following books: 2001 Artist's and
Graphic Designer's Market or for children's
books...the Children's Writer's and Illustrators
Market. They have proven for me to be an invaluable
source for doing work freelance style.

Heather

------------------------------

From: B Mason <bemason@concentric.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 09:59:57 -0800
Subject: [Baren 12051] ink questions 

Hello friends,
This is for the oily people. Here is a little problem that has cropped
up for me. I am taking a lino block class and having a little ink
trouble. If I use a very stiff ink (I am using litho ink because I have
a lot of it) I have better results, but it doesn't print as well as I
would like. I finally printed it upside down through the press to keep
everything from moving. I built the frame Ruth recommended, but still
got a little movement when the press hit the block. I did use cardboard
between the block and the roller. so I turned it over and got pretty
good results. This is a bit of a problem when using more than one block
and not really practicle for more than one color.

When I use damp paper, I am getting a little less sharpness than I would
like. The instructor recommends using cobalt drier in the ink. I have
never used drier so I am not comfortable with it. Also drier mixed ink
on dry paper  has a very gloss finish and I prefer the matt finish I get
with wet paper and no drier.

Can you guys tell me what ink you use and what paper and what modifiers?
The instructor recommends arches 88 printed dry, which I like, but I
have drawers full of arches cover and rives BFK and rives light weight.
So, any advise will be very welcome. I know that on this huge list
someone has already solved this problen, so I probably don't have to
reinvent the wheel. I would be happy to buy different ink if that will
solve this. I used Dan Smith relief ink and it worked ok, not terrific.
Also I have some very shallow cuts, almost like hair lines that I don't
want to fill in. Is this too hard or what?????

I am going to try the akua kolor next week, I got some tack helper to
thicken it. I will report the results.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Barbara




------------------------------

From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 16:02:27 -0800
Subject: [Baren 12052] Baren technique. 

I am having my site updated but in the meantime if anybody wants to 
get an acrobat reader file showing the holding down of the bamboo 
husk let me know.

Graham




------------------------------

From: "jerelee" <jerelee@main.nc.us>
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2000 21:31:28 -0600
Subject: [Baren 12053] Re: ink questions charset="iso-8859-1" 

Dear Barbara
I used to print lino cuts and really enjoyed the process. The ink that I
have bought and  liked and had a  creamy consistency, was from Graphic
Chemical & Ink Co.  One of my tubes is called Etching Ink Burnt Sienna No.
753A.  I used to use some oil (can't remember the name either ) to add to
the ink to make a perfect consistency. Graphic can help you out. I also used
to to take a spray bottle  and spritz the paper right before I printed.
Perfect results. I have printed on home-made abaca as well as arches.
Jerelee

From: "B Mason" <bemason@concentric.net>
> This is for the oily people. Here is a little problem that has cropped
> up for me. I am taking a lino block class and having a little ink
> trouble.



------------------------------

From: Juan Guerrero <viscult@prodigy.net.mx>
Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 23:13:14 -0600
Subject: [Baren 12054] Re: Baren Digest V13 #1208 

MURILO PEREIRA:

Thanks for your comments about my work.  Here you will find my web adress 
and email.

Also, bareners, I just came back from a trip to Costa Rica, because last 
week there was an opening of a prnt show by 10 printmakers, and I was 
include.  I was really surprised of the levely and cuantity of printmakers 
that are living in the country. The Fac. of Arts of the National University 
of Costa Rica is really big, and there is a "fever" of students taking 
printmaking courses.
One of the organizers have promissed to upload a page of the mexican show 
there, which took place  at the Mexican  Cultural center in San Jose, Costa 
Rica,
Best wishes,

Juan Guerrero
Lago de Cuitzeo 165 V. Puente.
  Morelia  58020.  MEXICO

Tel/Ph. (52) (4) 312 6827
Fax: (52) (4) 313 0881

http://go.to/2ojos

Email: 2ojos@usa.net

------------------------------

From: Lawrence Finn <baren_member@woodblock.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 17:50:06 +1100
Subject: [Baren 12055] Re: ink questions 

heres some advice regards the inks.

Litho ink is too stiff (too much magnesium in it) add a little (and i mean 
very little) neatsfoot oil, if you insist on using litho inks. I prefer to 
use sakura ink (for colours anyhow) and mix in a little magnesium powder to 
stiffen it. Other good ink is printers offset inks, there used to be a good 
one in Sydney Australia called Hudsens, was gorgeous to use. They seem to 
have gone out of business sadly (after 120 years or something).

Soak your paper then put it between blotters (I normally print dry as a 
preference) this will help the ink adhere and also eliminates bed shift to 
some degree. make sure that the paper your using is of a reasonable quality 
or it will disintegrate in the soaking. Blot dry. Of course ensure that 
your pressure is not too high (on roller press, ie etching presses)

If your using BFK and even Arches it has a grain that will upset the print 
a little, it is a little too stiff as a paper to be a lot of fun. Soaked 
Arches can be ok though. I'd recommend something like shaunycreek, (print 
dry) whatever you use ensure that it is not hotpressed. Hotpressed papers 
are a pain on hand presses. Are you using a roller press or a platen? I 
also recommend avoiding any inks sold as hobby inks, too often they stink. 
Commercial offset printers inks are usually the best. Avoid mixing anything 
into the inks and when you feel that you have to be sparse with it. 
Inexperience often turns ink into toxic soup.

Regards


Lawrence



------------------------------

End of Baren Digest V13 #1210
*****************************