Delivery-Agent: @(#)$Id: local.c,v 1.54 1998/10/30 06:30:53 akira1 Exp $ on starlifter Received: by j.xx.or.jp (ATSON-1) ; 16 Mar 2000 22:03:36 +0900 Return-Path: Received: from lancer.xx.or.jp (lancer.xx.or.jp [202.224.39.3]) by trantula.xx.or.jp (8.8.8/3.7W) with ESMTP id WAA19035 for ; Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:03:35 +0900 (JST) Received: from ml.xx.or.jp (ml.xx.or.jp [202.224.39.111]) by lancer.xx.or.jp (Postfix) with ESMTP id 73CAF48A9 for ; Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:03:35 +0900 (JST) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by ml.xx.or.jp (8.8.8/3.7W) with SMTP id WAA19104; Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:20 +0900 Received: by ml.xx.or.jp; Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:19 +0900 Received: (from ml@localhost) by ml.xx.or.jp (8.8.8/3.7W) id WAA32758 for baren-digest-outgoing; Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:19 +0900 Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:19 +0900 Message-Id: <200003161300.WAA32758@ml.xx.or.jp> From: owner-baren@ml.xx.or.jp To: baren@ml.xx.or.jp Subject: Baren Digest V10 #939 Reply-To: baren@ml.xx.or.jp Errors-To: owner-baren@ml.xx.or.jp Precedence: bulk [Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking. Sender: owner-baren-digest@ml.xx.or.jp X-Mozilla-Status: 0001 Baren Digest Thursday, 16 March 2000 Volume 10 : Number 939 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Vollmer/Yamaguchi Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:40:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Baren 8871] Running Dear Bareners, I am still here! I have been too busy to respond to postings recently, but have been scanning all the news. Barbara Mason, I think I read you were donating portfolio #1? Shoud I send you a replacement? I'd be happy to have my print in the museum! And Julio, thank you and good luck from a fellow birthday-in-april. I'm actually April 15, how's that for celebrations! Loved the pics from Southern Graphics Council, thank you for posting them. I hope to make it next go around. I heard glowing reports from my friend Susan Rostow, too. What prevented my attending this year was a show at Marymount Manhattan, if anyone is in NYC, it's up till April 8. Etchings, monoprints, and lots of hanga woodcuts by yours truly. Also the big news is that I will be teaching for a week in South Dakota, at Frogman's. Karla H. has written about this printshop and gallery, now I'll get to see it in person! Dates are July 10 to 16, if anyone is intersted. Have to run! April Vollmer 174 Eldridge St, NYC 10002, 212-677-5691 http://www.aprilvollmer.com ------------------------------ From: B Mason Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 07:55:56 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8872] Baren Archives April, I cannot donate exchange #1 as I do not have it, I joined baren in time for #2. So if anyone wants to part with #1 or send work, we can get a copy for the archives that will be semi-complete as I am sure not all will hear this post. Barbara ------------------------------ From: James G Mundie Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:51:38 -0500 Subject: [Baren 8873] interesting website Hey folks, I came across this link last night and thought I would pass it on. The work is kind of fun, sort of like ukiyo-e cheesecake. I was at work when I found it, so I scribbled the address on a piece of scrap paper. It is either http://www.mms-net.com/ukiyoe/museum/index_e.html or http://www.mms-net.com/ukiyoe/museum/index-e.html James Mundie Philadelphia USA ------------------------------ From: James G Mundie Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 12:42:05 -0500 Subject: [Baren 8874] that last weblink As you may have already figured out, that link I just sent should indeed be http://www.mms-net.com/ukiyoe/museum/index_e.html. This is the work of Shusui Taki, a fellow who is undertaking the traditional art of hanga much like Dave, except that in Shusui-san's case he is also acting as designer. If you poke around on the site, there is an interesting essay about his methods. Mise le meas, James Mundie Philadelphia USA ------------------------------ From: Wanda Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:24:17 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8875] Re: that last weblink Beautiful site, Jim! Thanks for putting us onto it. I'm still looking. Wish there were enlargements of the tattoo series. Fascination idea - tattoos on such beautiful women. Nice to see all the different costumes, too. Wanda James G Mundie wrote: > > http://www.mms-net.com/ukiyoe/museum/index_e.html. > > This is the work of Shusui Taki, a fellow who is undertaking the > traditional art of hanga much like Dave, ------------------------------ From: Wanda Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 10:41:42 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8876] Re: that last weblink Also, if you go to Ukiyo-e Gallery & click on the link under the dragon (and *what* a dragon!) you will go to a java script page that shows the individual blocks for that print. Really cool! Name of link under dragon image: "Shusui Taki, Japanese Woodblock Print Artist" Wanda James G Mundie wrote: > http://www.mms-net.com/ukiyoe/museum/index_e.html. ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:23:51 -0600 Subject: [Baren 8877] birthday present ! Looks like I got an early birthday present today. While picking up the last batch (12 cases!) of exhibit frames from the receiving dock at work I noticed they were getting rid of ink. I mean a lot of ink! Imagine two very large steel drums overflowing with 5lb cans of printing inks (our company printing dept. went digital last month!). I had mentioned in a post back a while about the public auction they had to get rid of the large presses and other equipment...and I guess the ink was not part of that. Anyways...I asked and the guy loading the truck from the environmental disposal place said I could help myself to whatever. I ended up with about 20 cans (5lbs) of assorted colors, also a couple of gallons of Revitol (roller and glaze cleaner) and a box of something called Rogersol LV-120 Smash-Up. The ink is manufactured by ISC America Inc in Wooddale, Illinois and is labeled "Sheetfed Offset Printing Ink". The cans are unopened and labeled 98/99. Looks like I got most of the basic colors and several types of blacks. Has anyone used this stuff for printmaking/woodcuts, etc ? Commercially ? I be interested to see how usable it is for our art stuff and what type of solvents can be used with it.... Thanks....Julio ps. I also picked up a few 5lbs cans of VanSons inks....assorted blacks. ------------------------------ From: Don Furst Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 15:29:38 -0500 Subject: [Baren 8878] Re: birthday present ! >"Sheetfed Offset Printing Ink". The cans are unopened and labeled 98/99. Looks >like I got most of the basic colors and >several types of blacks. > >Has anyone used this stuff for printmaking/woodcuts, etc ? Commercially ? > >I be interested to see how usable it is for our art stuff and what type of >solvents can be used with it.... > >Thanks....Julio >ps. I also picked up a few 5lbs cans of VanSons inks....assorted blacks. Julio, I think the VanSon ink is eagerly used by some art lithographers when they do waterless litho. Check to see if it has a rubber content (desirable). Probably all these inks are usable for woodblock, but you might need to add a retarder (hand litho inks are made with no drier, but commercial inks have a drier). Add oil of cloves or synthetic oil of cloves (eugenol) to retard drying slightly. I would like to hear more about the various versions of Van Son black that you have. ---Don Furst ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 16:55:57 -0600 Subject: [Baren 8879] Re: birthday present ! Thanks Don. Yes this is the stuff with rubber in it ("rubber base plus"). I called the company....looks like the color tape used to seal the cans has nothing to do with the ink color. I fed them some numbers and they were able to tell me ink color...looks like I got some browns, reds, greens, yellows, cyan and a few blacks (lamp black, utility black, 28pt. black, etc...).....need to check on blues.... Most of the code numbers are as follow : SD PMS - 3245, Lot 2232 (green) or KT PMS - 476, L-7089 (brown) or SD PROCESS YELLOW, L-4414 (that's an easy one...yellow). I don't know wether you can mix these inks to come up with secondary colors....but I am hoping. I have enough for a lifetime of printing. Thanks on the tips for the retardant, does that mean I can treat these inks the same as woodblock oil inks ? Please send me your home address privately so I can send you some info from the Skokie Library show when the stuff is available.....I think you have one print in the show from exchange #1. If interested send me a short artist bio also. Hope everything is going well with your daugther.......best wishes.. Julio ------------------------------ From: "Maria Arango" Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 16:40:45 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8880] Re: inks and poplar report charset="iso-8859-1" - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 2:55 PM Subject: [Baren 8879] Re: birthday present ! > > I don't know wether you can mix these inks to come up with secondary > colors....but I am hoping. I have enough for a lifetime of printing. Thanks on > the tips for the retardant, does that mean I can treat these inks the same as > woodblock oil inks ? Julio, I don't know exactly what the rubber additive does, but in order to get offset litho inks to "behave" like block printing inks you may have to experiment with plate oil. Plate oil is just linseed oil boiled to a variety of consistencies, from "very rinsey" to "thicker'en molasses." Pardon the technical jargon. You can find every grade possible in the Graphic Chemical catalog, seriously, #1 is thin and #7 and up are extremely thick. I play with this stuff all the time because etching inks come in such a variety of color that I have been using them on occasion instead of relief inks. Most used grades in my studio are #3 and #5. Also, check out the drier content of the offset inks, if any. If they don't have any drier at all, you may have to mix with relief base or add your own drier. Otherwise you'll never get done with the exchanges on time ;-) My moon-print (Desert Moon) took forever and a day to dry, I believe the exact time lapse was 6 weeks--in the desert! I used offset black mixed with graphite for the darks, neglected to read the "contains no drier" label on the black. Cobalt drier works well, but it is highly toxic, so don't eat it; maybe someone can recommend a drier substitute without carcinogens? Now for the poplar report: Poplar was my wood of choice for the money exchange print, don't ask me why, just a wild and crazy whim. It cuts very well and holds the line very well, harder than birch and pine but softer than cherry or maple. Here is the catch, it "drank" so much ink I started checking the back of the block to see if it was running out the other side. I.E. it is VERY porous, not closed grain at all, so shellack would have probably been a good idea (oops, too late now!). The second state printed just normally, but I thought I was going to run out of ink for the first state. Part two of the poplar-report is that it does not splinter but it is a bit stringy, it has fuzzies that won't come off but also won't interfere with the printing. I had to re-sand between carvings. After sanding and a linseed oil bath, it behaved like a decent block of wood and was able to finish state two. Now for the next states, we will see how it holds up. Recommendation: what the heck you doin' using these crazy woods, woman? get yarself some cherrywood and quit your messing 'round with other stuff :-) Health to all, Maria ****************************** Maria Arango, Printmaker Las Vegas Nevada USA http://www.printmakingstudio.com maria@mariarango.com mariten@lvcm.com ****************************** ------------------------------ From: B Mason Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 17:11:39 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8881] ink Julio, Lucky you! The van sol ink is great, the other you will just have to try. Barbara ------------------------------ From: baren_member@w.com ("Rudolf Stalder" ) Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:41:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Baren 8882] None ... Message posted by: "Rudolf Stalder" Thanks to everybody for the warm welcome. I much enjoyed Lezlie's prints of Florence and Venice, it seems that Italy is en vogue. South of Venice is Ravenna, it has some of the most beautiful mosaics of the world. Woodcuts and mosaics are both basic arts. Otherwise they have not much in common. For questions regarding mosaics please e-mail me directly. Thanks for the suggestions to improve my page. (To Josephine : I do not know Erismann.) In regard to the press I shall put pictures on the web with explanations. Thanks again Rudolf ------------------------------ From: "Daniel L. Dew" Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 21:29:22 -0500 Subject: [Baren 8883] poplar thanks Maria for the tip! The next two blocks I was planing were going to be on poplar. It is wood i've used before in my duck carvings that i've found very durable but subtle to work with. Last block I did was on red oak and it drank up my ink also, someone mentioned coating the block with a thin coat of _________ (what) prior to drawing then carving, then another coat of __________ (still what) prior to printing. Who was that and what was that? Dan Dew ------------------------------ From: B Mason Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 19:23:54 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8884] Sealing wood Dan, At boot camp Graham had us seal the wood with a mixture of 1/2 spar varnish (I fouond it at home base) and 1/2 thinner. We mixed it up and applied with a cloth pad. Sand after dry with 600 sand paper and apply second coat. This second coat may be optional for some wood.) Apply again after carving. Let sit over night, print. Hope all is well with your family. Barbara ------------------------------ From: "Arye Saar" Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 06:38:58 +0200 Subject: [Baren 8885] Re: birthday present ! charset="windows-1255" Hi Julio. I'm running a proffessional printing shop, and we use mainly the Vanson rubber based ink. For the offset printing the ink is excellent! I also use it for woodcut prints. Here too the ink is great. The Jordan valley is very hot in the summer - but i never had to use a retarder. As for solvents - i use plain Kerosin, sparingly . Luck with the exhibition. Arye ,, - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 9:23 PM Subject: [Baren 8877] birthday present ! > > > Looks like I got an early birthday present today. > > While picking up the last batch (12 cases!) of exhibit frames from the > receiving dock at work I noticed they were getting rid of ink. I mean a lot of > ink! Imagine two very large steel drums overflowing with 5lb cans of printing > inks (our company printing dept. went digital last month!). I had mentioned in > a post back a while about the public auction they had to get rid of the large > presses and other equipment...and I guess the ink was not part of that. > Anyways...I asked and the guy loading the truck from the environmental disposal > place said I could help myself to whatever. I ended up with about 20 cans > (5lbs) of assorted colors, also a couple of gallons of Revitol (roller and glaze > cleaner) and a box of something called Rogersol LV-120 Smash-Up. The ink is > manufactured by ISC America Inc in Wooddale, Illinois and is labeled > "Sheetfed Offset Printing Ink". The cans are unopened and labeled 98/99. Looks > like I got most of the basic colors and > several types of blacks. > > Has anyone used this stuff for printmaking/woodcuts, etc ? Commercially ? > > I be interested to see how usable it is for our art stuff and what type of > solvents can be used with it.... > > Thanks....Julio > ps. I also picked up a few 5lbs cans of VanSons inks....assorted blacks. > > ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:57:18 -0800 Subject: [Baren 8886] Sealing & Woods From Boot Camp Scholes...... Just a small clearification.... One coat before carving and one coat after carving the plate. After each application sand with 600 grit emery (sand) paper using a block of wood wrapped with a piece of cloth for padding. You would not want a corner of the sanding block to accidentally mark the surface of the plate.. This technique offers a couple of benefits. Gives the softer woods a little more strength for the fine lines. Seals the surface and holds out the pigment. The Rice paste will cut the surface tension that the varnish causes when first priming the plate with water base pigments. More clearification re woods. Poplar is not as good to use as basswood. The reason, as Maria pointed out, is that it is too porous and not tight enough grain, causing a greater absorption of pigment. Varnishing helps.. The grain is broad and this can give you marks in the print ..... mind you some times this can be used to advantage. It is very difficult to prevent furring when cutting across the grain.... as is Cedar. Another factor to consider is when cutting across a grain line the chisel or 'to' tends to stick. This happens with Cedar as well. The degree or hardness of the woods (from softest to hardest) is: Basswood..... Poplar......(these are very close to being the same) next is .... Pine ....Cherry Birch.... and Maple. There is a Scandinavian Birch that is softer than the North American Birch. Then there is a yellow N.A. Birch that is softer still. Oh my confusion reins supreme. I think I got all this right..... Graham. >Dan, >At boot camp Graham had us seal the wood with a mixture of 1/2 spar >varnish (I fouond it at home base) and 1/2 thinner. We mixed it up and >applied with a cloth pad. Sand after dry with 600 sand paper and apply >second coat. This second coat may be optional for some wood.) Apply >again after carving. Let sit over night, print. >Hope all is well with your family. >Barbara ------------------------------ From: Jack Reisland Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:26:33 -1000 Subject: [Baren 8887] Re: Sealing & Woods Graham Scholes wrote: > > The degree or hardness of the woods (from softest to hardest) is: > Basswood..... Poplar......(these are very close to being the same) > next is .... Pine ....Cherry Birch.... and Maple. There is a > Scandinavian Birch that is softer than the North American Birch. > Then there is a yellow N.A. Birch that is softer still... ...and eight kinds of pine, ranging from very soft to pretty darn hard, and three kinds of cherry varying a little in hardness, and three kinds of maple varying quite a bit in hardness... :>) Jack Smartallek, Hawaii ------------------------------ From: "Daniel L. Dew" Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 07:27:16 -0500 Subject: [Baren 8888] woody things thanks for all the tips about varnishing! do all these tips still apply if not using paste and pigment, but, oh my God, tube ink :-0 Dan Dew Tampa,FL ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V10 #939 ****************************