[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking. Baren Digest Thursday, 12 August 1999 Volume 08 : Number 658 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: David Bull Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 22:41:04 +0900 Subject: [Baren 5228] Re: Just Who is Georga wrote: > i sent "medusa" to dave in hopes of being put on the "who is baren" page but i > dont think he has had time to do anything with it yet Yes, I've been 'sitting' on a bunch of these for quite some time now ... But your note prompted me to get on it ... I've just updated the 'Who is Baren' page with entries for Bea Gold and the lady who signs as 'georga'. http://woodblock.com For those of you whose update is still waiting in line ... hang on just a bit longer please! Dave ------------------------------ From: "Horacio" Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 11:17:31 -0300 Subject: [Baren 5230] Exchange III Barbara, Just to confirm, I understand that linocuts are not allowed on Baren Exchange III, only woodcuts. Am I right? Horacio. ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 07:57:02 -0800 Subject: [Baren 5231] Georga's imagery=20 >i sent "medusa" to dave in hopes of being put on the "who is baren" page Medusa and Our Lady of Perpetual Guilt are twins. Who this be the creator. Very powerful images. Water base of Ink base pigments.? Graham ------------------------------ From: amoss@mindspring.com (John Amoss) Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 11:10:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Baren 5233] seal tricks=20 Hello y'all- I have had a terrible time lately with seals/chop marks- the rubber stamps that I use "glop" up with thicker pigment and thinner ink prints weak and is too transparent. I worry about the permanency of commercial over-the-counter stamping ink. Do I remember some talk on the matter in [Baren] a while back? For those who use chops/seals, how does one get a good impression with opaque color like vermillion? The stamps are too small for a normal block printing brush and the thicker paint won't soak into a dimestore stamp pad. I'm not familiar with the traditional oriental chop sets... I enjoy using these things as a design elements, but it sure is frustrating to botch the last detail of a print! Thanks in advance for your help! - -John Amoss ------------------------------ From: Barbara Mason Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 08:51:28 -0700 Subject: [Baren 5234] Re: Exchange III=20 Horacio wrote: > Just to confirm, I understand that linocuts are not allowed on Baren > Exchange III, only woodcuts. Am I right? Yes, You are right, Woodcuts only. A little harder to cut, but a different look to the work. Barbara ------------------------------ From: Aqua4tis@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 13:47:11 EDT Subject: [Baren 5236] Re: Georga's imagery Graham wrote: > Water base of Ink base pigments.? thank you graham i am at present still doing western style woodcuts so these are oil based i was lucky enough to participate in a 2 day hanga workshop about a year ago but as you can guess it wasnt nearly enough time and im a slow learner someday id love to be able to participate in one of your workshops graham i cant tell you all how pleased and proud i am to be a part of this group you are all awesome!!! georga ------------------------------ From: Gabrielle Gagnon Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 14:04:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Baren 5239] Reply to Jean Hi, and thanks to all for the continuing welcomes. Jean : Thank you so much for the encouraging words on my work. Your site was the first I discovered on woodblock printmaking, a couple of years ago, and I love your prints. Keep up the good work! Concerning your question on rollers, I think Barbara Mason very well explained the technique I use for inking the block. I have one very large rubber roller (6 in. diameter and 24 in. wide) that is good for inking large surfaces, specially when I start a new print. It is heavy! I bought it used for 200$ (Canadian). But I mostly work with small, relatively cheap, rollers. The trick, as Barbara said is to get an even ink surface so as not to get roller marks on the print. As for suppiers of rollers, I know of Graphic Chemical. I think they have a web page. Graham : Good for your son. I'm sure he will like it here. Montreal is a lively city, interresting to students. I came across an announcement on a wood engraving exhibition in Washington : Meticulous, Poetic Wood Engravings by American Printmaker Grace Albee http://absolutearts.com/cgi-bin/news/elaborate.cgi?find=3D311 Unfortunately, there is only one print of Mrs. Albee on the museum web site, but it is beautiful. I had never heard of her before. Gabrielle ------------------------------ From: David Bull Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 08:07:38 +0900 Subject: [Baren 5240] Re: seal tricks John wrote: > For those who use chops/seals, how does one get a good impression with > opaque color like vermillion? At your 'service' ... http://woodblock.com/encyclopedia/updates.html Dave ------------------------------ From: John Ryrie Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 18:58:33 +1000 Subject: [Baren 5241] Re: seals=20 John although I don't use the Japanese method for printing I have studied Japanese calligraphy and seal chuting. The best advise as with most things is to not get the cheaper seal ink. the cheaper ones will fade in time and also bleed. As it lasts a long time it is worth it. Rubber stamps will work but will not be as sharp as stone if you don't have access to some one who can cut you a seal then a commercial printer can set it in type metal or plastic which works well. John Ryrie ------------------------------ From: amoss@mindspring.com (John Amoss) Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 07:54:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Baren 5243] re: seal page Dave- Service indeed. Wow! Wonderful seal page: The cognac trick is especially neat. All I need to do now is convince Margaret that the bottle in my studio is for printing... Thanks to both you and John Ryrie for the help! - -John A. ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V8 #658 ***************************