[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking.

Baren Digest              Wednesday, 14 April 1999      Volume 07 : Number 525

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From: Cucamongie@aol.com
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:19:44 EDT
Subject: [Baren 3969] Re: Baren Digest V7 #524 

agatha wrote:
> the japanese papers offered in the daniel smith catalogue are 
>significantly cheaper than the ones in the maclain's catalogue.  

Agatha - thanks for the tip - I intend to check this out - however, something 
to consider & ask when you order is if the paper is sized - one advantage to 
McClains' paper is that it is already sized.  However, if the daniel smith's 
paper is a lot cheaper, it might be worth the effort to size it - at any 
rate, something to find out as if the paper is not sized the ink tends to 
spread out a lot -

Sarah

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From: "William Kolberg" <wkolberg@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:01:53 -0500
Subject: [Baren 3972] Re: Baren Digest V7 #524 

Hello all.  I've used the Daniel Smith oriental papers for printmaking four
or five times, with both woodcuts as well as linocuts.  They seem to print
fine, no blurring or running or spreading of the ink.  The paper I've used
is one of the 'mulerry' variety, although I can't specifically remember
which of them I purchased.

I'm new to the group, living in Austin, Texas, printmaking in not only the
woodcut relief area, but also in intaglio, and, soon hopefully, in the
lithographic area.  My background is in photography, and in studio art, and
I'm specifically interested in combining photography and traditional
printmaking methods to produce my art.  Now that I've said that, I'm also
interested in realizing whatever image seems to appear in my head, if you
get my drift.

I teach photography at a local community college, and I also do freelance
work in photography, graphic design and in the digital imaging area of
things.

William

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From: Ruth Leaf <leafr@ecom.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:19:39 -0800
Subject: [Baren 3973] Re: Baren Digest V7 #524 

I'm very impressed with the prints on Aprils website.  It almost makes
me think I would like to try hanga  prints.  I wonder if they can be
done on a press?

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From: "Jeanne N. Chase" <studiojnc@prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:38:37 -0400
Subject: [Baren 3977] Re: Romancing the Music. 

Dear Graham
I absolutley love, love, love your new Concert Series.
The "Teaser " is wonderful!!!!
Since I cannot play an instrument.  I try to capture feelings of music, you
are doing that.
I am looking forward to the "Big Picture".

Jeanne

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From: Gayle Wohlken <blueman@pantek.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:44:43 -0400
Subject: [Baren 3978] Re: Baren Digest V7 #524 

Jack said:
> The Japan Woodworker has bullnose chisels at about half the price of
> McClain's. 

I have the catalog in front of me, Jack, and I sure am confused.  So 
many kinds to choose from, so many sizes.  Even the mallets--so many
sizes.  How do I know where to begin in chosing?  

Right now I'm looking at bullnose chisels sizes l/8 inch to 3/4 inch.
Graham was talking in cm's and so was Dave in his encyclopedia
entry on tools.  I think in inches more than cm's and mm's, etc.  The 
price ranges in my catalog are $36.50 to $44.45.  Are these the ones
you are speaking of?  Does anyone know about how good these are?
They are called "Professional Wood Carving Tools"--hand forged from high 
carbon "white steel" forge welded to wrought iron...and it says the
handle will stand up to blows from the heaviest mallet.  Does this sound good
to you people who know?  

Also on the "Mallets" page there are barrel shaped wooden ones in
different sizes and ones called (just plain) wooden mallets.  I have no
idea what size or shape I would want.  If anyone has this catalog, it is
on Page 11 of Vol. 28 Japan Woodworker.  

Thanks for any help here.
Gayle

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From: "Bea Gold" <bnjgold@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:26:16 -0700
Subject: [Baren 3983] Elderhostel 

Jean - Haven't you been saying you are a bit older?  If so maybe you could
come to the Elderhostel - looks like it will be wonderful as I'm sure
Grahams' will.   Maybe the Elderhostel is still open - just $425 for 6 days
including room and board.  Doesn't sound quite as appealing as Marie's B&B
but .......Look up
HORIZONS: THE NEW ENGLAND CRAFT PROGRAM  look for
August 22  - called Chinese Woodblock
http://www.elderhostel.org/catalog/states/21su.html
Bea Gold

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From: Jack Reisland <reislandj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:17:15 +0000
Subject: [Baren 3984] Re: Baren Digest V7 #524 

Gayle Wohlken wrote:
> I have the catalog in front of me, Jack, and I sure am confused.  So
> many kinds to choose from, so many sizes.  Even the mallets--so many
> sizes.  How do I know where to begin in chosing?

Yes, these are the only bull nose chisels they list. The sizes are as
follows:

1/8"=3mm
1/4"=6.5mm
3/8"=9.5mm
1/2"=13mm
5/8"=16mm
3/4"=19mm

> Also on the "Mallets" page there are barrel shaped wooden ones in
> different sizes and ones called (just plain) wooden mallets. 

On the "Wooden Mallets", the 6oz. corresponds in weight to the large
"Standard Quality" mallet in McClain's, and the 4 oz. corresponds to the
small. The 11oz. "Barrel Shaped " mallet corresponds in weight to
McClain's large "Deluxe Quality" mallet, and they don't have one as
small as the McClain's small "Deluxe".

I hope this helps a little, perhaps someone else can give you more
input.

Jack Reisland

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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:14:08 -0700
Subject: [Baren 3985] Mallet 

Gayle Wohlken wrote:
>On the "Wooden Mallets", ... 

Gayle,
I am wondering what kind of wood you will be using and what size of plates
you will be making.

If you are using a hard wood then a mallet may.....may.....be necessary.
If you have very little arm strength then a mallet may ... may... be necessary.
If you are going to do large plates using hard wood the a mallet could be
useful.

If you are using basewood or Shina plywood then I don't see the need of a
mallet.
So much depends on strength and your cutting technique and method.
I think putting your money towards the professional cutting tools is more
important.

Could you tell me why you want a mallet?

Regards,

Graham

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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:55:09 -0700
Subject: [Baren 3986] Workshop Material list 

I have had several requests from several other baren members wanting to get
a copy of the workshop materials list. I was planning on directing this
information just to the interested persons,  however taking into
account..... the plans of mice and men...... I can find the list of those
not in the workshop.

So.... anybody that is interested can having a looky lou at:
http://www.members.home.net/gscholes/Hangamaterial.html

I am working on a list of the equipment in detail regarding prices and
other specs that will enable those attending to make decisions re the
ecomomics of purchasing equipment.  It looks like the Canadian price may be
in your favour.

I am working with Noboru Sawai on this and will have it in a couple of days.

Regards,

Graham

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From: "Bea Gold" <bnjgold@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:12:48 -0700
Subject: [Baren 3987] Greatt question - hanga and press 

Considering arthritis for aging print makers (all will get there we hope!)
is it possible to create Japanese prints with a press - recognizing variety
of pressures will not be available.  Anyone doing it? Bea Gold

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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Baren 3988] The real thing....will almost. 

http://www.members.home.net/gscholes/ConcertRussian.html

Will take you to the image of 'The Russian Dance" one of five images in the
Concert Suite.
As I twig others I will let you know.

Enjoy

Graham

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From: Sunnffunn@aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:50:26 EDT
Subject: [Baren 3989] (no subject) 

i am currently working on a reduction print   the first print was in yellow  
i want the next to be green  i am taking a printmakimg class   my instructor 
seems confused as to how to acheive green first he said mix a blue adding 
white, which was opaque  now he says mix a green with transparent medium????  
i am confused????
i have all these yellow prints   should i go with a transparent green to make 
a green and then a blue over it all to get my blue????

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From: Graham Scholes <gscholes@home.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:17:12 -0700
Subject: [Baren 3990] Re: (no subject) 

>i have all these yellow prints   should i go with a transparent green to make
>a green and then a blue over it all to get my blue????

Hummmmm  To whom I a sending this post....

Dear no name!

To get green, when you have already got yellow down on your print, you must
print a transparent blue over the yellow areas you want green.
If you print an opaque blue it may have a ting of green but not much. This
depends on how opaque your blue pigment is.  Adding white will do very
little other lightening the colour.  I prefer to dilute the colour with
water to make it lighter.  White has a poor result in watercolour pigments.
It makes colours look chalky.

Graham

ps Do they pay the instructor or is he some guy off the street that donate
his time.

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End of Baren Digest V7 #525
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