[Baren]: The mailing list / discussion forum for woodblock printmaking. Baren Digest Tuesday, 12 January 1999 Volume 06 : Number 409 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jacob Roquet Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:10:08 -0500 Subject: [Baren 2639] Styli and micro gauges Gary wrote: Could I get the address for those styluses again? Or would it be styli? Regardless, Go to http://www.ptnonline.com/sti_wacom.html. This works with photoshop. Wacom is one of the leaders in tablets and pens. Or just go to any search site and search "wacom tablets." You can't have the stylus without the tablet. On micro gauges. I've never had them on any of my presses. But at the price point someone suggested I might have to think about it. Anyway you still have to start with even pressure across the roller to the bed. Here is how i do that: The key is to start with the same distance from the press bed to the roller. What I use is a metal straight edge about 1/8" thick. I adjust the roller depth till it barely touches the roller all along the width if the press. Then slide the rule in and out from the roller all along the width of the press bed.Lighten the pressure till you can feel the roller just barely "kissing" the straight edge. You'll easily be able to tell when the two are slightly touching. This is also a good way to test if your roller is off round or your bed is not flat. (I wish I could draw this, its easier done than written.) This is similar to using a spark plug gauge, except the feeler is 18" long and 1/8" thick. Once you have this distance, mark your pressure wheel on both sides and the press with a pressure tick marks. (I use a Sharpie marker for this and do not scratch this in.) Now you can easily adjust the pressure up or down by turning in equal increments. I've not done this for a woodcut, but I can imagine one could go to a machine shop and get two thicker pieces of metal stripping to closely match the thickness of a woodcut or engraving and start this process at a higher distance. Regards, Jake ------------------------------ From: Jean Eger Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:02:40 -0800 Subject: [Baren 2640] Re: Baren Digest V6 #408 Thanks to Matt for reminding me of the need for sizing paper when printing with rice paste. I used the Walter Phillips recipe on Hosho Student paper. It improved the printing immensely. Alum 1/8 oz. Gelatine 1/4 oz. Water 35 ozs. The Phillips book is at: http://www.sharecom.ca/phillips/technique.html Dear Roxanne, Please thank Tzuchi Yun for me, for the translation of the seal. I will confidently place the seal on my prints from now on. All: I had some success printing large woodcuts on a litho press. However, there was slippage on some of the prints. My professor suggested a neoprene blanket under the tympan, but it was the end of the semester, so I didn't have time to go looking for blankets. Where would I get such a thing? Jean ------------------------------ From: Jacob Roquet Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:35:04 -0500 Subject: [Baren 2641] neoprene blankets <neoprene blanket under the tympan, but it was the end of the semester, so I >didn't have time to go looking for blankets. Where would I get such a thing? >Jean Try a local roofing supply or roof repair business in town. They often have rubber membranes they use for flat roofs. I know they sell butyl rubber and perhaps new composites, not sure about neoprene, but they might suggest a source for you. Or give you samples of various membranes to test. Jake ------------------------------ From: Marco Flavio Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:49:41 -0800 Subject: [Baren 2642] Re: Gold Hello Graham, I print regularly with gold achieved by mixing Mica powder with pigment. It needs many impressions as the gold does not transfer that well. Sinopia (www.sinopia.com) carries a series of metallic inks that work very well, and 3 different gold tones; check it out. Marco Flavio ------------------------------ From: Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:51:06 -0800 Subject: [Baren 2643] Mica I read the notes about adding mica to waterbase ink and I'm wondering if anyone has tried adding it to oil base with any success? Andrea Rich ------------------------------ From: Gary Luedtke Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:54:18 -0500 Subject: [Baren 2644] Styli and micro gauges <> Thanks for the site address Jake. You are right, the correct plural of stylus is styli. My old Latin teacher would be sending me to the corner, again! Gary ------------------------------ From: Gary Luedtke Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:00:14 -0500 Subject: [Baren 2645] neoprene blankets For a neoprene "blanket" you might also try a bath and tile store. They often sell a 3' x 5' section used as a liner under a shower. Another idea is your local garden supply place. With water gardens becoming popular, they often carry neoprene for pond liners. Just a thought if your local roofing supply house doesn't want to cut anything that small for you. Gary ------------------------------ From: jimandkatemundie@juno.com (James G Mundie) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:55:28 -0500 Subject: [Baren 2646] Happy news for exchange participants I am happy to announce some good news concerning the [Baren] exchange. {trumpets} Our good friend Graham Scholes of Victoria BC (meaning the province, not the date) has found a way to participate in the exchange. You may all look forward to holding a genuine G. Scholes in your mitts next month. Welcome back to the exchange, Graham. Incidentally, for those of you who are beginning to wonder, I will be providing shipping instructions for the sending of your prints shortly. Stay tuned... Sla/n agaibh, James Mundie, Philadelphia USA ------------------------------ From: Julio.Rodriguez@walgreens.com Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:50:22 -0600 Subject: [Baren 2647] re: exchange.... James writes: "Our good friend Graham Scholes of Victoria BC (meaning the province, not the date) has found a way to participate in the exchange. " Best news I had all day! Welcome back to the exchange Graham. James; when you do the posting, could you please include a list of what info you need on the print & other pertinent data. Thanks. For those of us not used to doing lot of mailing, When do we need to mail by so you get our prints in time ? ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:09:05 -0800 Subject: [Baren 2648] Re: Gold Marco, Thanks for this info. Graham ------------------------------ From: Graham Scholes Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:18:53 -0800 Subject: [Baren 2649] Re: exchange.... Julio wrote.... >For those of us not used to doing lot of mailing, When do we need to mail >by so you get our prints in time ? We allow about 2 days locally, 3 days 500 miles away 4 days 1000 miles away 5 days 1500 miles away 6 days 2000 miles away are you getting the idea here? Anywhere States side we allow 8 to 10 days. Don't forget to register and insure your packages. It is peanuts and good piece of.... never mind. Graham Victoria BC......that was a good one Jim. ------------------------------ From: "Haydee Landing" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 06:38:07 -0500 Subject: [Baren 2650] Re: Woodcut press Hello to all Members: Jacob I usually use a press for my woodcut. The method is: 1. Cut a wood the same type of your woodcut ( I use mahogany plywood) in the same size of your paper with a hole in the center. That hole have to be exactly in the size of your plate. Ink the plate outside then put it in the press with the other wood and put the paper on it. The register will be the side of the wood with the hole. If your print will not have margins I not recommend this method. 2. If is a big woodcut (my print are 60" X 20") I change it. I use punch register, 5 holes in one side of the paper. In the bed of the press I temporary glue 2 pieces of balsa wood, 1/4" X 20. Then I put the inked plate in the press and the paper with the holes in the punch register. Always you have to cut that part of the paper that have the holes. Beware with the punch register that don't damage the press roll. It have to be smaller than the thick of the plate. There is a big difference between felts. If you don't want relief don't use it, only use the lithographic tympan or a piece of plexiglass ( 1/8"). Near the press roll use a felt to help the press to move. If a part of the paper don't print good you have to use felt after the paper and before the plexiglass. Always have to use others 2 pieces of the same type of the woodcut( I use 1/4") . One in the begin, exactly before the plate, and the other in the end. That is for protect the woodcut. If you don't use it maybe your plate will damage at the begin and at the end. Good luck. Sorry the english is not my first language. I hope that you understand. Haydee ------------------------------ End of Baren Digest V6 #409 ***************************